SRRAE

Its a pitty you are are crap at the domestic league and cup games ;) Even if Liverpool win the final, which I hope they do, but I dont think they will, they may not be in the competition next year :confused: However if Liverpool was a better at playing leauge games the would not have this problem ;)

Yep I know it looks familiar. :D :D

Do these help?

I have had these for about 2 years now. Very good. Especially that you get the boost and oil presure in PSI and the temperature in ºC and not ºF

I think Im not working that night. I will probably be there.

No. I think its a Mégan advert.

For people who dont know what NWS means, Not Work Safe. ;) http://www.testofcharacter.co.uk/

It wont work under 30mph and it wont work over 100mph. Id yours a manual or Automatic? Go on the motorway and set the cruise control on, you want a time when it doesnt work. Then put your foot under the brake pedal and lift it up a little and try again. If it then works, the brake pedal switch is sticking.

Instead of all bidding on the same thing, why not some one email him and ask if you buy bulk, ie, 4-5 of them instead of 4 or 5 of you bidding on the same thing.

To be truthful mate when I saw you make those claims, I could not be bothered with the agro ;) Yes Zs can go that fast but not with out Diff or gearbox modifications. And personally I think you would need a little more than 400bhp. Personally I would say 450 ish at least. But this also depends on where this 400bhp is. Is it at the wheels or at the crank?

Yes it is expensive. He has a web site about his Z and on there he said that he wont tell how much it cost but it was VERY expensive.

They are mostly for looks though. The bonnet is already aluminium so there is not much weight to save.

People who get the nismo rad cap often find that the hoses blow because they can not take the extra pressure.

32mpg driving like a granny for 330 miles on the motorway

Honda 2000? Civic Type R?

I think I have found the problem. I think the belt is slipping all the time but it is not making any sound when slipping. I was suspicious of this at first and now I am more sure of it. Today was quite cool, so the belts are shorter and stiffer and the steering was perfect.

Check on the traders section, I thing some of them where selling the adjustable top links where you can change the cambre. most cambre kits are fixed and chang the camber back. These are cheaper but are no where near as good.

Hi mate, Do me a favour. Go to a carpark or driving slow in a traffic will do, keep turning your wheel left and right. This is why you need to do it in a carpark or when you are in traffic or at least driving slow in traffic. Tell me if it gets easier and eventually goes. Mine did but it came back quite quick. I kept doing it for 5 mins while in traffic, and it went completely. Every now and then if feels like it is going to do it again. I think that is an air lock. Constently turning the wheel left and right is pumping the fluid around releasing the airlock. But there is probably a leak somewhere letting the ait back in. Tell me how you get on with turning the wheel thing.

Phil at C&S Wood has been thinking of this for a while. He told me when the recircs go, he will try it.

Mygod, he actually found one that works?

New belt, its not slipping, speed sensor would cause the speedo to not work correctly and the ACVr not to show the speed. Plus it would have shown up in the ECU diagnostics.

My power steering has gone very strange all of a sudden. It keeps going heavy and then light. I have searched but none of the symptoms are the ones I am having. Instead of going heavy all of a sudden after so many miles or so many mins of driving, it changes stiffness every so many degrees of turning of the wheel. For example; Doing one full turn of the steering wheel the steering will turn slightly and then go heavy, keep turning and a few degrees later it will go back light, few more degrees and its heavy, so on and so forth. In one full turn it will go from light to heavy 4-5 times. The fluid was completly changed about 6 months ago, using the correct fluid which is stated in the manual. I forget which one it is exactly. The HICAS was disabled about 5 years ago, and never given any problems. ECU code is 55, all clear. Steering fluid is at correct level. HICAS light is not on. It does not go away when I go faster It does it when the car is stationary too. Speedo works as does the AVC-r speed reading/ Any one got any ideas? Thanks for your help Stuart

Dont put the flash on. :D Put the camera on something sturdy and put it on self timer and take a pic, if you can.

"For what?", you may ask. The boost leak detector which you got made up a few years ago. My car was starting to feel a little wheezy, not reving as high with ease, boost just didnt feel correct, generally feeling a little down. Whipped your boost leak detector on the car, pumped a little air in and presto, very loud hiss coming from the battery area. 10 mins later the leak was sourced and fixed. The car is back to its fantastic self. Its a pitty you stopped getting them made. Which reminds me I said I would lend mine out to some one ;) Stuart

Skyline R33 GTR