sb007

You can do it with a hammer and a long drift, but i did it once on my dads car when his cat was knackered and waiting for a new one to come, it sounded very tinny, not very nice. I have downpipes and decats from chris@getgreddy well worth the money spent. Baz

They're the cat temp sensors, you need to remove them and cable tie them up out of the way. If you cut the wires a light will stay on on the dash. Baz

This link should help, i know my Z you saw earlier is TK3. The colour code will be on the VIN plate. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/colorstech.html Baz

Great, Thanks for the help Baz

What is the normal running temp for a TT? Thanks Baz

They will be the engine oil cooler and auto box oil cooler, the one behind the fan is the air con condenser. Baz

I've used this in my old JAP and my current UK and both have taken the full 3 bottles and i've had no problems with them. Baz

3 bottles, it takes abot 2.8 litres if i remember correctly. Baz

The link below gives good info on PRVR, AIV etc removal http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/index.html Baz

I purchased an eezi-bleed to use on the zed a while ago but had to return it, there is no cap supplied in the kit big enough to fit the reservoir. HTH Baz

Remove the face, in the centre on the left and right are 2 small round "pins", lift them up or down into the centre (as needed), and pull the unit out. HTH Baz

Yep, thats the stuff, they also sell the redline 75/90 for the diff. Baz

Hi Mate, There not hard to do at all, remove the disk and handbrake assembly, remove the outer bolts in the 2 stabilizer arms and the 1 in the bottom of the shocker, remove the 32mm nut from the end of the drive shaft, this then allows you to pull the top forwards and undo the 4 bolts holding the bearing assembly and nut on the handbrake shoe centering pin.. I would buy new bearings, there available from MJP. I think that makes sense. HTH Baz

Could be the same problem i had on mine in 2nd and 4th, noisy main shaft bearings in the box, i've just replaced all the bearings in the box and replaced all the synchro's too to save having it apart again later on. A full set of bearings from Nissan was about £330. Symptoms were a whining under load and at idle but disappeared with the clutch down. Baz

This is me and my other three quarters. Taken at my sisters wedding reception. Baz

Me please, Internal

Have a look at http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk They have an EBC clutch for the Z listed for £105, don't know if there any good but worth a look. Baz

"usually worth testing 'wet' to avoid erroneous results - drop of oil in the cylinder" ( Rich ) This is incorrect, adding oil into the cylinder will give incorrect readings and hide any piston ring probs, adding oil is only done if you have low compression and want to distinguish between rings and valves causing a problem. Baz

Jasma is the jap equivelent of our kite mark or E mark for exhausts etc not a brand name/make.

I got them as a kit, but you can buy a set of stainless pipes with the BOV flanges to replace the rubber ones from DTA in the traders section. I removed the recircs and bloked up the hoses to them. Baz

This pic shows a set of blitz dv's on my last Z, mounted in the same way. Baz

The only difference between the two is a small pin in the hub assy to locate the pivot for the handbrake shoes, you can buy them from any normal motor factors but they still include the fixed part of the hub and were more expensive than MJP who's selling genuine parts. Baz

43280-AA300 - R/H 102.85 43281-AA300- L/H 91.80 Vat 35.33 Total 237.23 I got these from MJP october '05 for my TT HTH Baz P.S You cannot buy the bearing alone, these includes the fixed part of the hub.

Adrian Flux 08700 777888 I've been with them for about 5 years now with modded and non modded cars, always been good. Also try http://www.confused.com Baz

Hi mate, It's a 1 meg ohm resistor you need, nothing else will work. HTH Baz