groover

Looks great for the money, there are a few bargains to be had lol.

I think it was a supra, wasnt it?

Thats good news. :clap:

Behind the wheel arch liner

He is on about the wing indicators mate

Well you have a couple of options, a well known second hand one, preferably still attached to the front section of prop, then its real easy to change. Bearing on its own, need a press or puller to get the old one off and new one on. The best long term option is to go for a one piece prop from JeffTT. It will cost you around the same for a new bearing and have it fitted.

The cheapest and simplest option is to drain the system, replace coolant and bleed. See how you go from there, option 2 would be to change the thermostat and water pump then repeat option 1 :wink:

I had the rad cap on and the bleed screw is on the top of the rad toward the left, even topped up a little using a jug throught the bleed hole. And its a VG30DE for N/A and VG30DETT with the snails on :thumbup:

Get a new painter:lol::lol:

I bled my system with the bleed screw out altogether initially and could see the bubbles, as the engine temp rose and the water got hotter then the little bubbles of air were starting to come out of the bleed screw which looked foam like because they were so small, but not frothy. You need to bleed the rad with the front end of the car slightly raised, so that any air from the matrix forwards can work its way out more easily and keep topping up and bleeding till you have no bubbles. It doesnt matter about over filling as the overflow will take care of it and dump it into the overflow tank. The fan wont cut in anyway until really hot. You may as Jeff suggested have a faulty thermostat.

Are you confusing lots of small bubbles with froth and before anyone says anything i know what i mean lol

I agree mate the new lip looks great.

Does it still work :sweatdrop:

Looking great Paul, im suprised you havent got rid of the parking aid yet, or do you need it lol

Repost Dave, but still amazing and im sure there will be a few havent seen it yet :thumbup1:

No worries mate, will give it a go on mine first to make sure im not talking Bowllox :thumbup:, only kidding, i will make sure it will do what you require before i send. Will try and get it done by the weekend and get it off to you Monday. Cheers Graham

Its actually easier than you think. I can get you the resistors and diodes, for pence and give you a wiring diagram. you are basically sending 2 feeds to one lamp, similar to led rear lights. You would need to splice into your existing 2 wires per indicator, take another 2 wires spliced from your side light and run to the indicator. On the feed (+) wire before the bulb, you have a ceramic resistor, which prevents full 12 volt to the bulb, giving the same brightness as a side marker/sidelight. A diode, which is a one way choke basically inline before the resistor, which allows voltage one way (to the bulb) but not back into the loom. So the effect you get is a side marker on with the side lights and an indicator at full brightness, the bulb wont actually go off with the side lights on, but will still be a visible flash, similar to the way the old american cars have the rear lights wired. If you want i will make up 2 lengths of wire for each side, with the bits on, then all you need to do is to splice into your side light and indicator feed.

Its a joke sometimes, i used to take my van over every week at £150 a go, i now keep it in Pompi and get the hover over, much cheaper. We could do a zed ramble :lol::lol:

Cattle roads, pot holes, the military road on the south side of the island is a great run, some straights and windies. There was a meet a few years back when quite a few came over. The ferry is the main drawback, the most expensive stretch of water in the world to cross (for distance). When i went to Disney Paris last sept, it cost me £53 return on wightlink and £38 return to france, work that one out lol.

I think if you wire in another light to the wing indicator it will need to be amber and not white. So amber on with the side lights and the second amber for the indicators. You could do that mod using the same bulb and having both the indicator and sidelight feed to the same bulb, use a diode on the side light side to prevent voltage returning through the system and a resistor to dim to sidelight brightness and when used as an indicator at full brightness the flashing will over ride the side light. Simples!!

It could be a line pressure issue, but im getting mine converted soon, ( how many times have i said that lol, honestly it is soon) so im not going to worry about it. All i can say is, it has been like it for the past 3 years and still fine.

Having had momo steering wheel on mine for the past few years, its not something i thought about, i think its a bit tight to get anything around or in the switches. I have a spare in my garage, which i will have a look at and see if anything can be done.

Mines the same, nothing to worry about.

As far as im aware, as long as it can be seen side on, it doesnt matter. Some cars have them on the wing mirrors, you can get an led kit that lights from under the car, so shouldnt be a problem

Centre prop bearing vibrates coming up to 40mph.