groover

Yes you can still use the cruise control

Im with you there mate, after having the car off the road for about 10 days to fit new engine and manual box, i cant believe the difference its made compared to before and certainly enjoy driving her all over again.

Sorry my bad, you need to remove the top nuts for the steering rod, but you dont need to remove the rack. Here is the link of what needs doing http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.386

:happybday: many happy returns :happybday:

I managed to communicate with mine, even though its manual now, so when i come up on monday, try mine out. I dont think the auto ECU is any different for a TT and N/A, but im sure we will find out lol

Code 54. Signal circuit from the automatic transmission, The A/T communication line is open or shorted, so check the harness or connector.

Lol, couldnt have been further away from what you were after. IIRC yours is an N/A ,you wont need to remove the steering rod. If you are fitting the japspeed manifolds, you will not be able to fit an O2 sensor in the hole supplied as it will then interfere with the steering column, even with the blank it scores the rod slightly.

Check a the front of the plenum and see if the connecting hose is there, it should look like this As Jim said it looks to be on back to front

Not unless your removing the engine and box together you dont need to touch the steering rack. Heres a write up with pics http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=117000

But surely you still have the fuel rail for the injectors to sit in? anyway, now you know at least you can get it sorted. Its one of those things that are sent to try us on the zed front lol

Look on the right hand side of the plenum next to cylinder 2 coil pack and your fuel hard pipe is there, instead of at cylinder 5, you have no mounting points for the FPR in that position. We just wondered if you had done something different to the fuel rail.

Oh yeah, whats happened there then Craig? Well done, it is a nice feeling and even better when it starts first time lol

:happybday: have a great day :happybday:

:happybday: Have a great day, all the best :happybday:

Lol, does sound like a little dubious double entendre :nana2:

Check your slave cylinder, i found mine was not coming out all the way, so had to lube it and keep pushing it in and with the pressure of the pedal, back out. Once it was freed, it bled really easily.

Its a form of corrosion, moisture reacting with the metal. Best clean off the gunk and apply some dielectric grease, i just had an issue with 2 injectors that had the same crap in them.

Firstly check for green corrosion on the injector plugs and injector terminals, i just had this problem and it sounded like a scooby lol. The check the voltage on the TPS with a multimeter, should read .44v when closed and 4.0v at WOT. Then check connectors on the IACV, IAA and FCID at the rear of the plenum for corrosion, check the hoses and vac pipes. There are some write ups in the faq section for erratic idles etc..

Thats what i thought with mine lol and it was out. It should be 0.44v closed and 4.0v at WOT, its worth checking again anyway mate, i did mine twice before it sat right. One gnats cock of movement can change 0.01v as you tighten it back up.

Have you checked you TPS? it will affect the gear change if set incorrectly.

Not sure how it works on a UK car , but the power/hold switch makes a difference in the gear it pulls away in, ie hold= pulls away in second. Might have a jap Auto ECU in, though just a guess. When i come up monday Ian, you can try my auto ecu see if it makes a difference.

Cool will give them a call, my current insurance is due on sept 2nd and ive been quoted about £150 more than last year with the same company lol

You top up using a funnel through the autobox dipstick at the rear of the engine, drivers side. An empty box, empty torque convertor will take around 8 litres, best to stick a few litres in at a time and check the level using the dipstick. There are hot and cold marks on the dipstick, so you dont have to run the engine or have the ign on to top up. When you hit the cold level on the dipstick, run the engine until up to temp and check level again and top up as necessary.

Just looked at Footman James site and it states "Thank you for choosing Footman James for an insurance quotation. If you are unable to answer YES to the following statements we will not be able to give you an on-line quote and you will be unable to purchase cover via our website. The vehicle: • Is over 15yrs of age (Quotes available for younger vehicles please ring the number below for a quotation). • Has not been modified from the manufacturer's standard specification. • Is not a grey or parallel import including US imports. • Is not valued at more than £50,000. • Is not a Van, pickup, motor home or other commercial vehicle. • Must be garaged at night. • Your maximum annual mileage will not exceed 6000 mpa (please ring us for higher options that may be available) No more than four named drivers to be included on policy No-one who will drive the vehicle on this insurance: • Is under 25 years of age. • Has a notifiable condition that has not been notified to DVLA. • Has a conviction for non-motoring offences that has not been rehabilitated under the Rehabilitation of Offenders Act. • Has been refused insurance or had special terms imposed. • Holds a provisional or non UK driving licence. • Holds a full UK licence less than 5 years. I assume you guys phoned for a quote?

Its actually quite light, it looks to be made of some sort of fibrous material and no you wont be able to bolt the fogs back in without it.