SMW1

PM's are useful for anti hijack :). I'll send you one now. ;) ah forget that, You are not subscribed anymore. Long story short, was told 2 weeks at the start of Jan, been 4 months and it's almost ready. He reckons this weekend but then I've heard that for the last 3 weeks :(.

What's the average temp of oil in a 300zx engine, anyone have an oil temp gauge fitted that could post thier readings here. i.e. 10 mins after idle. After booting it for a bit ?.

O2 sensor are not used at idle. So although you will get a reading, they will not cause a misfire. Your problem is either Spark fuel or compression. Start checking the easy / cheapest first. The PTU, make sure the connections on both sides are clean and have good contact. If it still misfiles, check you are getting a spark from each plug. If you are, check the injectors are firing, with the ignition on but engine not running, rota the CAS and listen for the clicks. If all is well here then you need to do a compression check on your cylinders. Low compression and you need to do a cylinder leakage test to tell you what's at fault. This is the order in what you should check. My guess is that you will find the fault at the spark level, i.e. ptu or coil pack connector. Let us know how you get on.

In theory Cats help to develop that little extra back pressure the turbo seals use to keep them in place. Decatting your car would mean there is no longer any back pressure. Hense the seals tend to go quicker. But then if you think about the ammount of pressure coming out of your exhaust once the turbo's kick in, back pressure is fairly minimal at that stage.

I'm with WillyO on this one, this is an oldie, Window rattle is the most common at hlaf way, the fin that sits the window into the door bar is usually worn or broken. Had the same on mine back in '02 and checked everything without sucess, then it was suggested by an old timer "ah that's a simple one, it will be the windo pin that holds it in place to the door pillar".

First port of call woul dbe to get a conzult plugged into it. Check the conzult link to see if anyone is near you that owns one. If this shows up as all clear then, you will want to start cleaning your sensors, tps, temp, MAf etc. May also be worth giving yuor throttle bodies a clean.

Triflow version ?

I am in IT. How do you think I spend all day on the forum :). I sit on my butt all day tapping keys, stuffing my face with stupidly high calorie Pret food and drinking coffee. Then when I leave the office, I go home to my wife and kid, spend a little time with them, then do a couple of hours DIY. I was hyperactive as a child and although I kinda grew out of that, I like to do something that I have an influence over, i.e. I prefer to play a computer game rather than watch TV. You control the game, the TV controls you. So building and decorating at the moment is what I'm putting my mind to. It's something I enjoy doing as it keeps my mind and body busy. Some call it a hobbie, others call it painful DIY. Both myself and the Wife want to get this done, so once it's sorted we'll be able to sit back and enjoy it for a bit until I get ressless again and find something else to do :).

Sorry that was in response to Car MAd's "I don't want to replace them, can I strip them out instead" comment.

In that case you may have a fuel related problem as well. Fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump maybe.

When you turn the ignition on can you hear the fuel pump fire up briefly ? Also when you have a fair bit of petrol in the car and you take it for a spin, then open your fuel cap do you get a pressure release noise ?. That wasn't mine btw, that was something I found while searching for a picture of a splash guard. This is my one. I'll be replacing / cleaning the left filter soon.

If she runs hotter than normal and gurgles this sounds like an air lock of some sort. We have another similar thread to this and there it has been advised to jack the back of the car up to try and force the air to the rad. Open up the cap and the bleed screw and top up as necessary.

Not sure if this has been answered, but yes the AIV can be removed completetly.

Yeah, there goes a man who's never played football in his life :). He would have won if he could have just kicked a football like most other men :).

Surely there must be a spray version of rust proofer that is put on before the primer, is there not ?. I know what you are saying Vijay, I'd want some sort of warrenty as well.

Try the temp sensor and TPS as well if you want to check them, but I'm sure your problem is related to the MAF. No Apexi as far as I'm concerned is the best for the 300zx, I replaced it with another Apexi :)

not the best of pics but you can see the corigated splash guard for the induction itself in this picture.

When I said the sensor maybe getting damp, I meant the sensor inside the MAF (i.e. where the air passes through the tube, not the connector). Getting wet will kill the MAF, what we are refering to is moisture, whether it's in the air passed through the cone or some sort of condensation, any moisture on the sensor it self will cause the MAF to send incorrect readings to the ECU, which is what you appear to be getting as it's cutting out when the MAF kicks in. However as already mentioned it could be the connections anywhere between the MAF and the ECU rather than just the MAF sensor itself. But the most common cause is the sensor. I don;t have any here at work but I'll have a browse around and find some unless someone beats me to it. Nope the Apexi should next be moistened in any way it's a totally dry filter. Oiling the filter will allow grit / dust to fuse together causing blocking of the filter which means less air getting in. I know it's been suggested on here before but I also don't like the idea of Duct tape on the bottom of the cone, it may prevent a lot of moisture getting into the MAF, but will limit air flow all the same. It's best to find the source of the moisture and fix it before you get to the induction.

Anyone else got a similar setup ? i.e. Sky router = connection from yellow to home network. then connection to xbox / ps3 etc.

I was wondering when that picture was going to come out again :). Not seen that for a good few years now :), Since Chris got it back from PPS lol !

Is that Discs and Pads or Calipers or all ? Brand new or slightly used ?

I think it depends on what sensors you are installing. Sometimes the ECU will send a constant earth and fire on live (i.w. injectors work this way) and other times it will send a constant live and fire on the earth. I can confirm that with Boost, Oil Pressure and Oil temp, I grounded them all through the same earth wire and it seemed to work ok. Not sure if fuel pressure, tach, water temp and other gauges will work the same though.

It's the flux capacitor :) Looking at the diagrams it does look like the ASCD computer. Mine looks slightly different to that but I think that may be becuase my Z's an 89 model. I suspect your's is a little younger maybe series 2 ?.

Shell all the way for me even before the mods.

Different connections and because it uses a phone line now rather than a seperate port you need to use the magic boxes as they call them. So I have to use the sky router.