SMW1

Tonus, If you want to do it right I would take it slowly. Appreciate the car at every stage of it's increased performance. There is no point going from standard to full out engine build. Take it easy, control the flow of money you put into the car and enjoy every moment of it. You already have an induction kit so your next steps (I'd do one at a time and see how you feel): After Market exhaust - You've already derestricted the amount of air coming in, not you need to derestrict the amount going out. Brake upgrade - performance is not all about how quick you can go, it's also about who quick you can stop. You'll be looking at either rebuilding your calipers and / or going for a bigger disc / caliper set. Chip and Boost upgrade - You are now ready to up the boost a little. The standard chip is only good for 10 - 11 psi the mapping runs out after that, so you will need a chip to cope with higher boost levels. Once you are chipped up you can then up the boost via a boost controller (Recommended) or boost jets (tendancy to spike the boost). Cooling - in preperation for your next big upgrade you will want to improve your cooling. This will consist of an after market Radiator, upgraded Intercoolers (front or side mounted), upgraded oil cooler. lightening - to put more power to the road you could think about upgradeing the following to lighened versions, under drive pully, flywheel, prop shaft. You would even thing about replacing your Viscous fan for an electric to lighten the load of what the engine needs to operate. Turob and injector upgrade - This is the biggest step that you will come to when you have done all the above. At this stage the engine needs to come out so you may want to think about also upgrading your manifolds, downpipes, injectors, turbo's, clutch, flywheel & doing a number of performance enhancing changes such as EGR removal, under plenum bypass. Hope this helps That should get you going for now.

Still for sale, but I want to get it mint first, so just need it custom mapped and then it's ready.

Managed to get a couple of hours today to sort some more engine bay stuff out. Car is up and running again with no signs of leaks or over heating :).

He missed the target :). Just a few inches higher and a spinning round house would have connected :p

So you are definately getting a spark from all 6 plugs ? All cylinders are getting fuel ?. If you have cylinders not getting a spark, check the feeds to the coil packs with a multi meter to see if they are getting a signal. If you find it's 1 & 2 or 5 & 6 that are not sparking, it's more than likely to be ptu related. Disconnect clean and reconnec the PTU. If you have cylinders not getting fuel, check the feeds to the injectors with a multimeter to see if the injectors are getting a signal. If not check to make sure the cas is sending the signal. i.e. igniton on , engine off and rotate the cas. If you have both spark and fuel, you need to do a compression test.

If you are getting sparks on all the plugs then you can rule the PTU out. The PTU only controls the sparks. If there is pressure in the fuel lines then you can rule the fuel pump out. If the cylinders are not getting wet then you eithe rhave an injector issue or a Crank angle sensor problem. If the ignition on but not started, rotate the Crank Angle sensor and listen for clicks. Each of these clicks are the inectors firing. If you don;t hear the clicks then check the connections to the cas with a multi meter. If the connectors are good, look at getting a replacement CAS to try. If you are getting clicks but still no fuel then it may be a problem with the electrics between the ECU and the injectors. IIRC the injectors take a constant live which is one feed, they then recieve a pulse earth to fire. So may be worth checking that the injectors have a constant live to them as this may be the fault. From what you are saying, you are either looking at the injector wiring, the Cas or wiring or a blockage in the fuel line just before the fuel rail. Hope you can find the problem. Let us know how you get on.

As soon as I saw it I thought, Assasins Creed. Very well done and the stances you are posing in suit it to a T.

Hope you are having a ball mate. Good to see you enjoying yourself for a change :)

I've seen a 9.6 sec mini with nos at North Weld a few years ago.

He will need to speak to Znut first thought before anything else is done.

Give it one last shot. Repair it and then see if you want to sell. Don't break it no matter what.

My appologies, this wasn't intended to be a group by thread, more of an appreciation thread for something that has not really been much.

Hi mate, Very impressed with your shields. Do they fit with after market bumpers and is it just the 1 piece you make or both front and back ? Very nice craftsmanship :).

Oooopppps :(. A new windscreen is gonna be a lot more than £30 :(

I quite like those wheels. What are the tyre widths you have on them ? What sort of style are you interested in ? These are probably a little too plain for your car, but this is what I would be happy to offer.

I'm not ording any :). Just wondering if there are any of us in this country that fancies doing a cheaper than OEM splash guards for the rest of the forum as these things seem to be very rare these days.

Kinda been waiting for this to happen for a while. Not sure why someone didn;t start making these sooner with the price of the originals in flimsy plastic. http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=classified&msg_id=131735&forum=classified&dtSearch=0

It must be great fun being in your business, you get to pick up bargin 300's and the ones you know have engine problems and you are going to break you get to rag them round the track first. I'm jealous.

Now that's what I call community spirit. Hats off to you mate.

I always wondered what that little toggle at the top was.

Welcome back. How's your 300 coming along ?. Not seen it for a long time. Got any recent pics ?

One guys just kept saying "smoke em" no matter what was going on. Kinda trigger happy I think.

AH I was gonna say, these things hardly ever break, but then saying that they are made by Mitsubishi rather than Nissan LMAO

The HKS are longer than the standard. The HKS bottom bolt (i.e left screw on bit) had to be cut down in order for it to fit. It's purely a solid screw and bolt, so you will not be damaging the acutator in any way. P.S. Call me Stu ;) Where in Essex are you ? *edit* that P.S. comment sounded a bit camp. I'm straight, married and happy :D

That looks scary, uninsulated earth across a stainless steel brace.