stenorth

Nice one! hopefully that'll do the business. Cheers for your help fellas!! :bow:

is there anywhere on a sunday that might sell this around the north west?

if only lol, well the poxy can of aersol has managed to persuade one 3/4 out. My old mans the same lol, he's miles away as well! it'd been quicker to get the hub off after all :o

cool, i'm half way lol, only took 4 hours! :rofl:

Nuts! They don't open till monday now. no chance of getting a spliter under there like stella says!! :( whats the best thing to ask for? oxyacetalene lol, gas axe the bugger? Cheers, for the help.

*****cks, i've not got anything stronger. any ideas? where can i buy one of them from?

i'm havin no such luck lol, third time just about to have a go, its move about 1mm every time :rant: Looks like its gona be a while. is there anything that has a hotter flame than propane/butane?

Has anyone been watching this? It's probably the funniest version of a jap show i've ever seen!!

This is a mare lol! you put the heat on the hub i take it?

exactly what i was looking for cheers Stella! :D

would a socket and a c clamp work?

nope lol, i was trying to do it in situ. I've got all the hicas gear off, wondering how to get them out? Is it less hassle to get the hub off and get them pressed out by a shop?

Hey, What's the best way without using a press to get the bloody HICAS ball joints out? Cheers, Ste

Not sure what setup it has but i have the exact same mines ECU. Looks like the ECU number i.e. the number ECU changed by mines, i have 10223 on mine.

Is that a methanol mix? how much is that a litre? Cool, i didn't realise there was anything more than 97 optimax.

lol, i think you may have it, have just been thinking they have 100 or more octane as standard don't they. Here's hoping there hasn't been any damage done.

I will pm them both then, cheers! The fuel pump and regulator seems ok, the voltage and pressure is fine from stationary testing. I guess i need to do the fuel pressure tests under load to confirm the pump is working as it should. thanks for the pointers!

Going to try another chipped ECU with a JD chip i have. Hopefully that will cure it. I'm suprised that the mine chip doesn't try to over fuel under boost, as thats what i've seen before and been told by a number of people.

You might well be right, as i've tested most of what i can from the service manual with consult and everything is running well. Does anyone know where i could get a chipped ECU from?

OK, cool, i ordered the consult from Dan. Looks like i'll have to wait until he gets back. thanks

just had the ECU out and its definately a Mines Has the guarantee plaque on number 10223 still has the security stickers (ones that look like they void a warranty) in place, so i'm going to assume thats not the problem! anyone have any experience of what i should look at before going to the injectors?

Hi, On the recent NW RR, i found i had a fueling problem that i was running lean on boost above 0.7bar and you could here it when up next to it. Tonight is the first real chance i've had to have a look. I've tested the fuel pressure between the fuel filter and the fuel rail around 40psi on idle jumps up to 45 psi if i pull the pipe to the intake off the regulator jumps up around 5-7psi when revving. So all seems good?? Any thoughts on what could be causing it and what to test now? Cheers, Ste

Reading the voltage of a battery is a good indicator but can be misleading as regards how much charge the battery is actually holding. Check the water level of the cells, for fur on the plates and test the hydrogen content as that is the best indicator. Assuming the battery is fine, easiest way to check the alternator is working is to measure the voltage of the battery with it connected with the engine off and then start it up and measure again, you should see a voltage gain, if its same or lower, the alternator should be tested for insulation breakdown, as i think that is the main problem with our alternators is that the insulation of the windings over time, due to the heat in the engine becomes less effective and the windings short out and thus no ouput.

I would of said this but the disconnecting the negative means there isn't any current flow to discharge the battery. Has the negative been clear of the body of the car? if it has the battery might need replacing as once you fully discharge a lead-acid (assuming here) they don't recombine well and it just won't hold full charge again.

Need a hydrometer to know for certain, funkysi's advice is a good starting point. Check the water levels and any fur on the plates aswell. Sounds like its not holding charge well.