stenorth

Two ways i guess. The 300zx online manual fuel and emissions page 53 (not my favorite) or pages 128 - 130 ( you'll need a volt meter) The connectors are shown on page 129. The sensors sit in your exhaust. Sorry i can't put links, macs are stupid

I'd say look at the o2 sensors i know you said you have been running rich, the little ones don't like that much! Boost leak also another culprit

solid will give you a hard, noisier ride but makes the most of the suspension. Poly is more forgiving and less noisy but you lose a little. Depends what the purpose of the car is and what you would like to put up with?

If you look in you're local area for upholster and ask them where they get there foam cut, they'll usually point you in the right direction. There are foam suppliers all over the place, and if you take the piece of foam you need, they'll usually cut the foam to shape for you aswell. shame you're in cambridgshire as i know the one's in my local area up here. But it will be much much cheaper for you! HTH Ste

Could be, aswel as mentioned: - fuel pump struggling - fuel pressure regulator - badly mapped ECU/ECU mapped for higher octane? - EGR valve stuck open

:rofl: you could write what i know about hairdressing on the back of a stamp. thanks for taking the time to find it though! :)

Good call, was looking at one of these earlier. very tempting and gives a better impression at work, as i have to use it to go to meet customers, suppliers etc. out of interest, do you know how long this kind of diesel last for?

i'd say the battery has been drained over the months. try jump leading it to get it going then take it for a good half hour to hour worth (30/40 miles) that'll hopefully sort it out. Short start stop driving and turning it over tends to drain the battery down, as the alternator doesn't recharge what has been used in starting the car up. HTH Ste

golf anyone? :rofl:

Thanks :o Honestly though your's is much nicer in the flesh!! :bow: lol, oh dear, looks like i need to work harder at the day job :mac1:

lol, there's a exception to that if i can find it! 2.0 tdi with propane injectors pushing out 300rwhp! :D I'm having trouble justifying running my zed and another decent car. Really don't want to get rid, but the amount i've actually used it is, looks like i've got to either sell up or store it for two years untill i hit the magic twenty five as far as mr insurance is concerned. :xxx: When i look at what i could drive in all weather such as S3's and R32's etc, and they're still £700 cheaper on insurance and not a massive difference in performance like for like. So it's either a diesel and the zed or sumat decent and no zed :x:

You've had one of these or have one? How do/did you find it?

Ok, never occurred to me, looking now!!

Really don't want these lol! :nelson: I drove a 306 peugeot 1.9td in my first year and loathed it! :wack: It's either that or i sell my zed and put towards something better around the 8-10k mark. any ideas? Thinking along the lines of an S3 1.8T because the insurance is half what i'm managing to get quotes for the zed at the moment! All help welcome, because i start a new job in two months and need to have my own car sorted by then!! :rolleyes: Ste

ffs! lol, thanks for taking the time to find that, it's a gem :rofl:

You're a fan of the old clio sports issac lol. Never been in one actually! whats the one to go for the 172?

Hey, Ideas for what i can get? possible something that'l keep me mildly entertained!! Open to any ideas, around the £2K mark. Going to be doing a 400 miles week, so something that'll hopefully survive a year or more. Cheers, Ste

I think dave zed might be right in your case. As the revs build up the voltage on the coil packs increases due to there being more revolutions, so more sparks per second. That puts more pressure on the insulation and if there are any route to earth (i.e. the body of the car) it will find them and you'll get a missfire, as a spark won't get produced. Checking all of the coil packs is a good start. HTH, Ste

There viscous coupling, not as good at transferring torque away from the slipping wheel as a clutch pack type. Then again better than open i guess. I think i've read somewhere they used them for the longevity, as clutch pack types wear. I've been looking into the LSD by quaffie and kazaa(??) and your talking of £ks installed compared to the hundreds a traction control system would be. HTH

Hey, Does anyone make things out of CF? I haven't a scooby how its done but if you do i'd like to talk to you as i have some bits i'd like making up! Cheers, Ste

get yourself a grinder, a lump hammer, chisel, a socket and extension you don't need( it'll take abit of abuse) and some MAPP gas. The MAPP gas is in a yellow bottle and it's available from B n Q The ball joint has a flange, you need to grind off most of the ball joint and thin the flange down, like in the link above until you can peel it up with the chisel. Be careful not to grind the hub though. Once it's clear of the face of the hub get the MAPP gas on the hub (prob better side opposed to face on, so the alloy expands quicker), let it heat up until the gunk starts flowing out of the ball joint. Then drift (twat it) it until it falls out the other side by the suspension lower leg. Easy (he says with a bit of irony lol :o) HTH Ste

lol, the second one came out in three hits :o Mapp gas is the way forward :)

yeh should be clean really, bit of grime maybe but not anything serious. check your regulator and pulse regulator (can't rememb exactly what they call it but looks exactly the same on the other side of the phelum) the pipes that go to the balance bar as they might be passing fuel. pull the hoses off and see if they smell of petrol.

The mapp gas and lump hammer works a treat, ten minutes to finish off the one. Going to do the other after dina Aslong as you don't heat the hub for too long it'll be fine! Use a socket and an extension you don't need anymore otherwise the heat soak might be too much.

Have a look over at http://www.300zx.org.uk lots of things you might find useful for what you've described. the leak could be a few things, turbo pipework, valve covers, oil filter itself, rear seal? the pcv valve and plenum removal should be on the above link also the service guides useful http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi HTH, Ste