tinkywinky

Yep you're right John where the 't' top rubber meets the 'a' pillar rubber. Robin

Should do the job. I had a BIG leak on the drivers side and it cured mine. I hate having a wet ar5e :D

John Just looked RS sell it catalogue number 494-124 , £3.61 for a 100g tube. http://www.rs-components.co.uk See Ya Robin

We use it at work, which doesn't help you I know. I know RS sell it and I think places like Maplins sell it. The stuff we use (DC4 ) is made by Dow Corning but any silicone grease will do. If you get really stuck I'll look at posting a tube to you. Later Robin

Hi John Had the same problem with mine, cured it by smearing DC4 silicon grease on the ends of each rubber, so when they meet water can't run between the two. Hope this makes sense and is of some help Robin

Anyone know if the japspec and uk spec manual box's use the same ratios ?

smw1 If you can get the the switch out, disconnect it and check that when in window down mode you've got continuity across the switch. If you haven't then the switch isn't working propely, if you have then check you have a live feed on one of the corresponding wires to that side of the switch. hope this helps Robin

Hi John I have a toad Ai606 and according to my manual pressing button 1 (your main arming button ) twice arms the alarm but with the interior sensors disabled. If you want to get it fixed try safe and sound Bob via his link on this forum. He's a dealer for Toad and atop bloke. Hope this helps Robin

Car companies always tell you the power at the crank because it sounds better, and different things like different transmissions will cause different BHP at the wheel even though they have the same engine. Not strictly true SRRAE For a car company to quote any power figures the figures have to be certified. This is done by an independent institute that is recognised by the governing body of motor vehicle manufacturers ( forget what there called ). As to pass this power cert any unit must be within 5% of the claimed power output, it's logical to go as far up the drive train as possible, i.e. engine, as any losses are easier to compensate for here. I've built lots of power cert engines and you wouldn't believe how close to the edge some manufacturers run engines just to get their power cert figures. Cheers Robin

Smoothyboy, have you ever owned a Nova, Saxo, ect, ect, ect :D :D :D ;)

I did think it odd so a ran it twice more and it came back with exactly the same figures and i mean exactly. So either for some reason it hasn't worked properly or ntl charge me for a 600kbs connection which is actualy a slow 1mbit connection. I suspect the former. Robin ps nobody likes to be called a liar :(

File Size: 2.9297 MB Time Elapsed: 0.031 seconds -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 756.05 Mbps (94.506 MBps) NTL 600kb

Some modern high performance turbo engines use the water as a means of cooling the turbos after runnning via a run on pump. Beats a turbo timer anyday !

Did it appear after the engine rebuild ? Haven't seen inside a Z engine yet but every engine i have been in to has baffle plates in the sump to stop oil surge under braking,acceleration and cornering. You did refit it when you put it together ? Robin

Ring Microsofts helpline Jeff. Get them to verify the e-mail. If it's nothing to do with them they may ask you to forward it to them to look at. Don't open it without verification. You could try scanning it with anti-virus software. Hope this helps Robin

Kev is it a known good ptu ? If not you may have been unlucky enough to have replaced a duff one with a duff one. Robin

Hi Gio How far out of spec is it and which way, i.e. pos or neg camber (I'm assuming negative ? ) I'm no expert but my views are thus : If it's quite a way out and you suspect a saggy spring you should be able to see it. If you park your Z on a fairly level piece of ground and stand 10/15 feet away, look at the front from side to side. Any noticeable difference in height then it probably is a weak spring, assuming correct tyre pressures. The dampers wont make any difference to the camber unless one is bent. Hope this helps

Paul C With most bearings i would agree with what you say, wheel bearing being a prime example. Clutch release bearings are an exception. The fact that with no pressure on the clutch pedal the bearing is only in light contact with the spring fingers is what causes the high pitch noise. The fingers being sprung act as an amplifier. Trust me if you've ever heard one it makes a noise like no other bearing you'll ever come across and is very distinctive. Cheers Robin

The bearing is usualy in light contact with the spring fingers of the pressure plate. If it wasn't you would have a long clutch pedal as it would have to take up the gap between bearing and fingers as well as actually operating the clutch. The drag on the bearing causes it to spin. On a knackered old dry bearing this results in the high pitch whining noise. It goes away when you load the bearing, as you compress the inner and outer races together (taking all the free play away ) Hope this makes sense Robin

Almost certainly the clutch release ( thrust ) bearing

I'll get me coat :D Robin

U know Liverpool always raise their game against Man U and will kick their Mancunian butts. Go for the underdog, put it on Liverpool. Judging by the amount of replies there aren't many football fans on the forum then ? Robin

J-spec TT 2+2

Sounds like you need Dowcorning DC4, available from RS components Tinkywinky

I think the correct technical description is a 'bullet' connector. Robin