Alex C

Does anyone else get what look like finger print marks on their metallic paint when it's freshly polished? The last few times I have given it a proper clean & wax, when the sun hits it at certain angles they seem to appear. When you get right up close you can't see them. I have tried T-cut metallic to remove them but this doesn't help. Just wondered if its my paint in particular or a general trait of the metallic black Nissan colour.

Post on Safe & Sound section of the trader forum - I'm sure Bob will guide you in the right direction.

Thats horrendous at 33! I'm 23, 5 yrs NCB, SP20 4 yrs ago, 12k miles a year, unmodded, £826 Fully comp with Admiral. Didn't even wan't to know about security (although I had a Cat1 fitted for peace of mind). Will look at Classic / 2nd car rates come renewl in May

Yes inc fitting, - apparently the part itself is quite expensive from Nissan (you could try trader section on this site), fiiting fairly straightforward.

I have exactly the same symptoms at the moment - on mine it is a worn upper link arm which goes between strut & wheel arch. About £160-£200 to do the job by all accounts. Check to see if you have any movement on yours, but sounds too similar not to be the same.

When I called out the RAC when I broke down after filling up (no starter motor turning - broken corroded wires as it turned out), the guy who turned up fiddled for about 30mins before finally blowing my main maxi fuse and rendering me with no dash electrics c/l or alarm. Fixed by Bob on the trader section here & report from him sent to the RAC complaints dept - recent reply said that they do not see how it is the RAC's fault. I am about to write another letter, but the is absolutely no chance I will ever get cover with them again - might try Green Flag instead.

Was that all 48? What was the total bill? NoS & JD'S-Z - how long did the job take you. I need my car for work so could only do it over a weekend out on the street! (no garage facility). May see what Grasshopper in Wigan quote to replace them all.

XJR's (V8 s/c versions) came with 370bhp initially, upped to 400bhp last 2 years IIRC. Very quick, loads of torque, good kickdown on the J gate box = tough race if you ask me. Limited to 155 though (like the Z!)

My hydraulic lifters have always been a bit rattly, but have become excessively noisy lately and don't quieten down at all now on the way to work which is a 15 minute drive through town. They only go quiet after about 20mins of motorway driving. It really does sound like a transit van now on startup - has anyone ever had these replaced? Got an idea of cost? Very hard to live with this noise for much longer - I was thining about an engine oil flush to try to unstick sticky ones, but as car has done 109K I'm worried it will do more harm than good. Cheers Alex.

109k, original everything including clutch! Noisy diff, gearbox & recently turbo's though. Not sure if I should try to sort things one by one or get by for another 6 months, save hard & go for a re-build. I have resisted fitting JWT chip & boost jets for this reason - they are currently sitting in my front room!

Aren't all the UK cars TT?

I might also come along as I've not been to a meet yet. Would be good to put faces to names.

Doubt it was stock - I had a 205 gti still in my mirrors at nearly 140mph, only managed to pull out about 10 car lengths on it from about 80. Remember that if they are running MI-16 engines (which this one sounded like when he passed me entering a roundabout), a tuned one could be 170-180bhp in about 900kg. Work out the power-to-weight ratio against a standard Z and it's only superior torque / better driving that will make the difference in my opinion. I used to have a 205 and am considering getting another as a daily driver if I move house - great fun.

markzx - probably missed this on other posts, but that's an awesome colour you have - is that a custom mix or a manufacturer shade?

Weird...I was just about to post exactly the same question only to see it appear at the top! As these are only £35 from getgreddy.co.uk, I think I might give it a go anyway. I did read on here somebody's lights seemed much better which is probably worth the money alone. Plus they look quite good on the battery, if you like that sort of thing. :cool:

Cheers Richard.

Anyone using or tried Ring Xenon Plus bulbs for dipped beam? Looking at ad they claim 30% brighter. Just brought some PIAA platinum white for £48 but realised now I'm home they have given me H1 types again not the H3's needed (all motor factors seem to get this wrong). Might trade them in for the RING type if they are any good as they're only £15. Can't aford time to take & send headlights away for the upgared at the moment.

I had a ding dong battle with a GTO - when we finally got the chance to go head to head rolling from about 10mph in first, there was literally nothing in it until the top of (my) third gear at about 90 ish, when I started to gain very slowly. Slowed for a roundabout and he turned off unfortunately - good drive though, we were in and out of gaps for about 20miles. He had dump valves so maybe mildly modded, but probably not based on stats above.

I live in Boughton, almost opposite Bill Smiths bike garage. Bit tight for parking! I will give you a knock next time I'm that way - a mate of mine lives on allington place just around the corner. Alex.

Tuesday night 7:45 ish - Rich666 was this you? If so I think I know where you live (Handbridge way?) - my mate lives nearby so I will stop for a chat if I ever see you about!

It's a manual. I think Stuart R is on the right lines for the initial problem, but what the RAC guy did to cause everything else in the dash to fail I don't know. I'll just have to wait for the report - in the mean time I have a Pug 307 auto for three days. This is the worst auto I have ever driven, it can't make up it's mind which gear to be in, and has an alrming hesitation just after pulling away on mid throttle which almost lurches the car to a stop. Can't wait for the Z to be returned to full health!

After 6 months of painless Z motoring, had my fisrst problem last night. Filled up with petrol, unlocked car (by remote), went to start as normal and nothing - fuel pump primed, all electrical systems working, just no turn of starter motor. Called the RAC, after hunting about checking under bonnet fuses, stil nothing - my thoughts were leaning towards a lose starter motor wire or an imobilser problem. At this point, everything else was working, remote central locking, alarm fob, CD, all ignition lights etc. Then RAC man gets under the steering column and turns the key several times whilst poking some sort of device into the fuses under there. Suddenly I had no power to the ignition at all, everything was dead including RCL and all dash lights. He called a recovery truck then shot off without leaving me any paperwork, reference numbers or anything. I think he knew he'd done something major when poking about and legged it before I could register this. Car is now with Bob at Safe & Sound (luckily he was there at 7pm when I turned up with the Z on the back of a truck), he is doing me a full report when he gets the chance and if its found that the problem was made worse, my already posted letter of complaint will be joined by a claim for the damage. Any ideas as to intial problem & future course of action should this be major are most welcome. Pretty p*ssed off as you can imagine!

Why do people do things like that?:slap:

http://www.turbosport.net As I said, there's hardly anything on there so their either pretty new or old school 'haven't discovered t'internet yet' types.

It doesn't say too much in the ad other than ceramic ball bearing turbo's. Page 88 of November's Jap performance. I'm thinking that they're fairly new as the website has f all on it. 30 psi re-build offered at £6680. That seems an awful lot of boost for a Z. Might send them a mail out of curiosity. My turbo's are fine at the moment anyway, I was just window shopping!