Ady682

Untill you speak to him personaly its best not to point the finger just yet,these forums can make a deal turn sour (with other people sticking their oar in,like me,now:D)when there could have been a happy ending,so keep on trying to contact him.Dont lose the rag yet,as they say, cos it maybe a genuine mistake.700euro is alot of buck to lose....

yeah,kitchen scourer,rectangular sponge type with rough side and white spirit or meths,that glue is tough stuff after a while being on.Surprised thinners didnt shift it but sometimes the glue needs aggitating.

Ah I see,so could you etch a custom logo into stainless steel door sills if made some? Yes,as long as the paint is sound on the rest of the panel,its ok to spot prime,(some colours dont work so well,some reds and yellows for example but dark colours are ok),but before you apply any primer make sure you scotchbrite or rub down 1000/1200grit-ish on the area past where the primer will stop,just to dull the paint and key it,if that makes sense?In otherwords,never paint/prime onto unkeyed paintwork.That way when your painter preps the panel,he wont have to rub back down,possibly disturbing the filler repair work you had done already.

No probs mate,glad to help (Acrylic primer has a nice build up over celly spray cans these days,it has more solids in the paint itself,if you remember the colour touch-up spray from years ago,they were very watery,whereas todays colour touch up cans are acrylic and the paint goes on much easier with good coverage) Etch primer is basicaly primer that etches into the metal,rather than surface primer we usualy use,you only need that for bare steel(acid etch primer,similar to the black primer found on new steel panels when you buy them,they use it over the usual grey primer as it holds the rust at bay for longer)Great stuff for bare steel as the initial coat, before applying regular primer but pricey and pointless on somthing thats got paint/filler on it already. Do you etch glass by any chance?Is it engraving or sandblast you use?I would like to put a logo in my rear quarter windows at some point,I think Iv seen them use acid type stuff on glass before for etching ?

Best way to remove the factory stonechip paint is with a da sander and 80grit disc,if you dont have one,hire or borrow an electric orbital sander and some velcro discs,go 80g to level it off,then 120g to remove the swirl marks.Otherwise wrap some around a sanding block and rub it out by hand,itll take ages but you'll have one arm like popeye:lol:

No,it wont.Acrylic primer is all you need,compatable with 2pack,cellulose and waterbased.I have been running my own bodyshop for 14years and been spraying for nearly 20years so I do know what Im on about...

ohhh,thats ALOT of soldering...is it worth it, mean ,does it clean it up much ?cos theres tons or other untidy stuff there.The VW boys do it all the time,but a vwGolf has lots less clutter to tidy up..:blink:

Yeh,a wee spray will be ok on it.(but a roller and tray of emulsion wont be so good for cooling tho) lol :clown:

Acrylic primer in a spray can will be what you need.

is there any nasty whirrng noise when your in gear?has it just started doing this or was it gradually getting worse?does it change into other gears smoothly and pull ok?

:lol: remember all thats gotta go back together at some stage

check the oil level in it mate,auto boxes are reliant on correct levels for line pressures which make it change smoothly and at the correct road speed,sticky valves can be caused by old oil so also check the colour of the oil,idealy its gonna be red,but more likely to be reddish-brown,(more red than brown though lol)if its brown,drain it and change fluid,brown equals overheating,sometimes slipping bands,you wont know untill you change and try with fresh oil..theres a filter in the trans sump,it may need cleaning if the old oil is manky too.There so many things it can be with an auto trans,internal pressures/pump/torque convertor etc ,but oil is the main thing to check first

haha,good stuff..that was sharp,come an take mine out now!I so cant be botherd till the warm weather comes!:lol:

yeah,I usually wrap a couple of plastic bags over the tailshaft.Stops it bleeding on the floor lol

Yes you can :w00t:

Just a small tub of each will do that mate,unless your going to be doing more bodywork..there again,theres not much in them small tins!We bulk buy every couple of month,they come in gallon tubs,at around £12 each trade,prob around £25 retail.Put a skim of bodyfiller over the p40 (btw,p40 is a brand name used by Isopon,who maufacture it,but there are loads of other fibreglass fillers, Upol,Tetrosyl etc,people just say 'p40' for fibreglass filler,same as people say 'hoover' for a vacuum cleaner) Back to your question,if you need to use the dolphin glaze,only use a thin smear over the bodyfiller,not over the fibreglass filler,its very watery and only designed for final smoothing to fill imperfections,dont rely on that to give shape to your job.If you get the filler well smoothed using a flat block,you may not need it.Take your time when you filler it up,long swipes along the edge,try to smooth pinholes as you go,pin holes get air/fillerdust trapped so when you apply another coat of filler thats what can give a poor end finish.:no: Hope that helps,good luck mate!

The gas struts eventually pack up dude.You can get replacements on ebay if you want to keep them on. :yes:

My bad... I missunderstood,I thought the screws were used in factorymade holes.(i never fitted one of these skins,so i dont know exactly if they have holes premade underneath like a bootspoiler) No,dont filler over screws or rivets,it can possibly create all sorts of 'nastys' down the line.Sometimes when its custom bodywork (wide arches etc)and unavoidable we use stainless screws and only when its buried deep.Alloy pop rivets corrode and steel screws rust eventually and bubble the filler.Not good if it does,especially on a custom paint finish ;)

Tigerseal and screws is perfect,it wont soften..just key the paint around the edges well,scuff it up good and give it a skim of p40 type fibreglass filler.Make sure its well into any gaps around it,then rub it down and give it a skim of your Upol filler and as mentioned earlier dolphin glaze or any final smoothng filler to finnish off and remove pin holes/sanding scratches..if t needs that. Flat down and prime.

:thumbup1: Thx mate!

Anyone? need the two measurements as I took them in the pics.With a staight edge(i.e spirit level)accross the face of the bellhousing. Measurement one... http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/dannymacc/Photo-0344.jpg and two... http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/dannymacc/Photo-0345.jpg

http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/dannymacc/Photo-0347.jpg This is the auto bellhousing removed from the old box,,alongside the 6speed.

Thats spot on mate,I an see right away that the manual bellhouse and auto are different,auto box one is bolted on....

http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/dannymacc/Photo-0346.jpg http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac116/dannymacc/Photo-0345.jpg Its the diameter of the spigot shaft I need,the end that goes into the crank, and the length of this from tip to the splines. Also,using a straight edge,across the bellhousing,the distance between the face of the bellhousing to the tip of the spigot shaft.Hope that makes sense?:)

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