Ady682

I doubt they will give you anywhere near £4k if the first offer is £800.Push them by showing recent dated adverts from magazines or pistonheads as you said, of same spec cars.Id expect around £1500 though.Buy it back off them and fix it or break it to make the money it owes you back.

I think I have missed a year since my first subscription ran out ,if i re subscribe will it be £20 or £15?

Something similar happend to a friend of mine,drunk guys on the pavement being as*holes,ended up the car door got kicked,three of my mates in the car had a fight in the middle of the road with the guys lol,they got taught a lesson!some people need to learn that way,sickening that the poilce wont do anything until somebody gets hurt.You did the right thing and got out of there,things can get much worse if you react in a situation like that.Always the same,you mind your own business and somebody comes into you day to try ruin things...

itll just be very noisy lol.Best try do something now,if a frostplug pops,you can bet it it will be someplace awkward to replace,worst case is the block cracks with the ice expaning.Start it and let it idle,then then try let the water.fingers crossed!

Yikes,it must be cold down your way!If you cant start the car,open the rad hose and try drain some water out,maybe pour warm water over the rad to de-ice it.You dont want a cracked block or even a frost plug popping if you can avoid it.Cover the engine with an old blanket too.

Looks v.nice mate,black - best colour for a zed :)

I need a carpet/upholstery cleaner,something that will wet clean my seats,was thinking or a hand held vax cleaner,anyone know are they any good?

Oh absolutely,I agree.

Oh absolutely,I agree.

Still,thats YOU,not every other tester in the UK.Anyway,Im not gonna sit here arguing,thats not what I intended to start when I posted here.I bow to your superior knowledge pal... Im not a tester,you dont need to be a tester to read the manual.I am a garage owner and have been in the trade for 15 years or alittle more and been around cars alot longer.I dont need pub information,I learnt my trade through experience,not listening to tw9ts who do use pub information on the internet ;) x

Still,thats YOU,not every other tester in the UK.Anyway,Im not gonna sit here arguing,thats not what I intended to start when I posted here.I bow to your superior knowledge pal... Im not a tester,you dont need to be a tester to read the manual.I am a garage owner and have been in the trade for 15 years or alittle more and been around cars alot longer.I dont need pub information,I learnt my trade through experience,not listening to tw9ts who do use pub information on the internet ;) x

A tester CAN NOT fail for any other reason!! Or should not LOL! I know what the manual says,but for a 20 second temporary fix with gaffer tape,would you bother doing it or wait and see if it fails for you to appeal later.As I said,its common sense.Mot testers are just regular people,good days bad days,Friday afternoon or Monday morning,some testers will stick to the rules rigidly,others use the manual as guide open to his or her interpertation.As I said in my own experience,I have had to remove the front foglamp off a car before during the test,due to "sharp edges" because of a missing lens,no damage,another time he commented on a missing spare wheel off the rear carrier,they were my customers cars,I didnt think ,going by the manuals wording that they would pick up on it,but these testers did,I take cars every week to them,they didnt fail,I just fixed it there and then.As you said,going by the book,a tested should not fail for any reason other than what the book says,but they do.:tt2: Next time the commisioner is stood watching you with his clipboard,you say to him,"Umm,Im not sure what to do here,this car has razor blades welded to the sides" hahah

Well no,theres no confusion,its common sense at the end of the day,ultimately,its down to the testers idea of what safe and whats not,this is the case with any mot requirement eh,one guy might pass it,another might not.The basic rules are,if the car can injure a passer by,it should/can be failed,,now this will be down to in the mot guidelines, either damage,example,a wing thats torn after an impact,or rustholes,as no car comes as standard with sharp protusions on the body lol.Either that or its been added on after,(ie razor blades..but im sure the constabulary would pull you before you got to the testing station!)Ive had to remove a 7" spotlamp from the bumper of a car once because the lens was missing(strictly speaking,it wasnt damaged,but it was sharp-ish...)The thing is,does a missing part of the bodywork come in as damage,well,this is up to the individual tester to decide. Vosa requirements for kitcars are ever stricter,we're lucky with the mot :))!

5 hours and still there!its white smoke or blue?wont have done the cat much good if fitted.was it just idling for the 5 hours?have you tried giving it a blast along the road?book it for the test and drive it hard there lol,it should clear.what else can you do.

NOT TRUE...A sharp edge of any sort will fail.Take a car to the mot without a front bumper and bumper irons still on,it will fail!Any sharp edges will fail,if its possible a pedestrian can hurt themself on it.Bootspoiler holes wont fail!,unless the holes were ragged with rust and had sharp edges.My garage mot preps cars weekly.Even if your arches or wings are holed with sharp edges,some gaffa tape covering it would let you pass the test.Drilled spoiler holes wont fail.Bumper irons,covered in foam padding WILL pass.Common sense is all it takes.

gaffa tape them if your worried.Sharp edges will fail the mot if theyre likely to cut someone thats walking past the car,foglights on the bumper with no glass is one i saw fail,due to sharp edges on the rim,rearspare wheel carrier on a 4x4 without a spare wheel mounted was another.silly,but if in doubt tape it up during the test.

Very true. Ive been moulding 'glass parts commercialy since the late 90s and spraying cars longer,so have a fair idea how long/difficult or smoothly the job may take.My stuff fits fine,the problem(sometimes,not always-talking about fibre parts)is when the customer supplys the parts,be it a full bodykit,bumpers,skirts or just a boot spoiler.You can tell if things are going to go well just with a mock up.Every car can be different,if your car was hit from behind and his car was on its side in a ditch 5 years ago,its not to say they were both repaired as to when they left the factory,to make the same aftermarket parts fit might be easier on yours than his.Sometimes its not a huge deal,but say for fitting a rigid PU bootspoiler,to have the parting/mould lines sanded smooth,alot of 'shops dont bother,it only takes mins to do,and looks much neater,that wouldnt be something Id even think of charging for.As for pattern steel wings etc,I expect a ballache with them anyway and estimate accordingly lol.Basically,fibreglass has always had a name for being a bad fit,when alot of the time,its the person fitting it thats to blame.Id rather keep my car standard and boring than have a poorly kitted up 'look at me' bodge job lol!

That looks class in red,only ones ive seen were the ones from Japan in the bluey/green which didnt do it for me,but red looks smart.

P.S,thats not one of my kits on eBay! lol

Sometimes kits can be very thin laminate,too short or just plain bad fit,usually due to moulds being stored badly where they twist through time in storage.The skill comes in making a bad kit fit and look end result like a kit that was a perfect fit first time.This is why alot of fibreglass kits get bad press,usually(but not always) its the bodyshop fitting it that arent good enough,I have had to fit alot of poor quality kits over the years(bought by the customer)and made their crap look good.If the bodyshop has experienced guys working the fibreglass,they will go the extra bit to make gaps and swages line up,whereare less experienced 'shops will fit it and say,"thats it,thats how it came ,not my fault its a crap fit,its fibreglass,what do you expect.." Its the same with pattern steel panels,they rarely fit perfect,but a little bending,hammering,sometimes a nip and tuck with the grinder and mig will get a pattern panel look factory fit,not all 'shops will do that extra to get it looking good.

Ive tried three different discs from ebay on three different laptops,all with no results,and Ive heard from mates that have tried some of these discs too with no luck.At first I blamed my alptop,then my leads(tried the bmw plug,standard 16pin obds and renault 10pin)no joy.so I ended up buying a basic £20 reader and have been delighted with its performance for basic fault code reading and erasing lights after the faults been traced and fixed.

Two questions really lol,can anyone shed some light on whether the nissan 300c(cedric) gearbox is the same as the z31 300zx gearbox,or simply will the 'box from that old v6 fit the z32 v6 motor?Just Ive been offered a cheap deal on one of these old boxes for my z32

I found that the beam pattern was all over the place and lots of internal light scattering (causing excessive light dispersion to oncoming vehicles). Took them out after only a few weeks and reverted back to good old halogen bulbs. I noticed that too,the ones I fitted had a little adjustment,there were small screws you could loosen and then turn the bulb in the holder to adjust the patern.Bit of a hassle. Oh well,next set am gonna get will be 4600 or 6000 if theyre whiter.

Dont make me re-read all that again lol. So,whats best, 35watt or 55watt?Ive only installed one HiD set onto a Jeep Cherokee.No idea what wattage they were but I wasnt hugely impressed with them,as the original lights were pretty good with ice white bulbs.They hooked up no probs,just more time consuming routing the wires neatly,but when the Jeeps owner reported back to me after a drive,he was very happy with the difference.I found them too 'blue'.Maybe the were lower wattage?

:lol: if you get a zx ,make sure its a manual then:tongue_smilie: