dougal200

thanks mate, my car is going to be not too dissimilar to yours, ive been trying to loose as much weight out of it without sacrificing comfort, i still want a nice interior. so far i have ditched, the ac the hicas aav etc the sound deadening will come out soon std seats replaced with recaros (at least half the weight) spare wheel will go battery relocated to boot area. rear wiper,spoiler and weight removed from the hatch alloy flywheel, pully and one piece prop (to come) enkei 17" (very light) wheels you get the idea, obviously starting out as a swb it is a bit lighter too looking to remove atleast 100kg i guess with the n/a back end it should be livley enough for me.

ive got a set of the recaros, they are a much better seat than the std ones, and alot lighter. new foam is available to replace the soggy bolster. i have started to retrim mine using the std outer cloth and a gray alcantara in the centre, the centre parts seperate from the rest and are actually quite easy to recover. id guess that the seats would be worth atleast £200 if not quite a bit more

im not sure on the difference to be honest, one of the main considerations is the weight saving, i think i will end up buying new hicas joints for the tt subframe if i use it aswell so this will add to the cost. ive got a complete set of adjustable arms which i was going to use on my 200sx but i might bung them on the 300

as some of you may know im doing a complete nut and bolt restoration on my swb. im currently doing the floorpan so soonish ill be rebuilding the rear subframe. ill be going to quite an effort to make sure the subframe etc will be totally rust proofed and better finished than when it left the factory. At the moment i have the rear subframe from my swb and the one off my breaker, both are tt. ive got a hicas delete bar but im not sure if i want a n/a subframe instead. obviously i dont want to restore a tt one only to decide to go N/A. ok then guys what would you advise as far as i can see it the N/a will give me a lower gearing (better acceleration), is lighter (by how much) and removes the need for the hicas bar. The tt will give a more relaxed crusing rpm, better fuel economy and most of all would be free. Any thoughts? anyone got one?

have you tried looking through funkies old posts if they are still about. he fitted the 99 spec and im sure it would have been in the correct place

welcome mate, i moved over from to 200 aswell, cracking car youve just bought

as far as i understand the main thing to look out for is worn suspension and the vanos system

like i said mate, the blue one should go to the pump, the orange to the reservoir those should be the only two pipes

any reason you used underseal and not stonechip?

what is the car jeff. im guessing its a uk car due to the indicators making it a lwb tt?

the flexi pipe that comes off the front of the subframe (and connects to the rack) is the pressure feed to the rack, this should connect to the pump. there should be another return line from the rack to the pas pot, this runs around the front of the car. finally there should be a big hose that runs from the bottom of the pas pot to the pump. if you are using a tt pas pump then as you may know this is actually two pumps, most people usually run a return line back to the pas pot (which was connected to the solenoid). you can also remove the blades from inside that chamber of the pump and then blank off the outlet, you would then need to blank of the extra inlet on the pot or use an n/a pot. option c is to use a N/A pump and pot Hope this has helped. i have gone for option d which is to move the pot to under the nose panel.

the pipes that go to the front rack are the pas pipes, you will need them. you just need to remove the two big lines that run from the rear rack, i think they both connect to the hicas solenoid

yep, the bumpers need to come off. i would also advise the engine, rear subframe and most of the body panels for that matter. even with a stripped out car its a bit un nerving having all that weight suspended by two bars

work has continued on the underside of the car this week. again sorry but no pics but ill get some tonight. the main news is that i have built a car spit so i can work on the underside while standing up instead of on my back, it bolts on to the bumper mounts. once im done with it ill give it to the club so that more zeds can be saved

definatly a vg30de the vg30et is a single over head cam turbo engine, this is a dohc n/a. very cool car though

to be honest i think most zeds will have this rust even if you cannot see it yet tehy will be rusting from the inside out, unless its a fresh import of course

if its a harsh juddering/hopping on launch then its most likely to be the rear subframe bushes. they are silicone filled and with age this leaks out and results in poor subframe location. subframe collars are a popular repair and used a lot on the 200sx. they come as solid alloy collars or white line poly collars call pineapple rings. ive had a set of the latter on a 200 and my last 300 and they are good, the alloy ones can be quite harsh. personally id replace the bush with a poly bush but this is a bigish job.

i think its a vg30de

that is a fantastic job, i had to do similar on my 200 shell. i have just built a spit to do the bottom of my 300 (very little rust though). the only area that i need to repair is this exact area where the rear bumper attaches with 1 screw to the shell (low down right behind the rear wheel. someone has tried to repair this before but its not very good. does the bumper screw onto a little bracket or into the panel (as in jeffs pic) any one help? car is a swb btw

the cubby with the flap is from an s14

have you checked you fuel filler pipe?

just removed mine in the week and mine too has started to rust. mine is a swb but still has the plastic guard and it was full of mud too. corrosion is not to bad for me but some of the brackets are long gone. i suspect a new one would be the best part of £200

if they were polished it would help:flowers:

no pics yet mate, just getting back on it really ill get some tomorrow though.:sleep:

looks amazing. im going to need one of these for my engine bay when im done