dougal200

thanks mate, didnt really show what i wanted, but there is lots of really useful info there. i was wondering if it was possible to replace the top windscreen trim without taking the screen out. turns out it is:flowers:

thanks mate, its actually the bottom fixing i need though. its close to the ground about a foot vertically down from the top fixing. on a separate note, that is a very clean wheel arch you have there. if you could get a photo that would be a real help to me, ive got my lwb as a reference but i suspect they may be a little different Many thanks Pete

has anyone got a picture of the bottom of the wheel arch at the back on a swb, the bit where the rear bumper screws on. i need to sort a repair which someone has bodged before pete

daz vert adapted a set for his vert. youve actually got a bit more room on a swb, the fuel tank is above the rear subframe on a swb instead of out back on the lwb

out of interest what makes an x pipe worse than an h pipe

its not a uk n/a dial, because they never made one

unless you have a swb, its in the back then

you may have the preload wrong slacken off the spring adjusters (2 c collars) so that the spring is loose then tighten them up so that the spring is compressed by about 5mm or so that they dont rattle around, then lock this adjustment off, you wont need it again. then set the lower adjustment to be equal each side, this is the ride height adjustment and should result in a roughly level car. if the car is still not level then you either have the wrong rate spring in one of them or a snapped coil. another thing that could effect ride height (but not this much) is if a suspension bolt which passes through a rubber bush was tightened when the car was not level, thus acting like an additional spring. think it will be the preload though

no problem mate. i fabricated the majority of the front sill on my car but i decided to join it on the edge just along the door shut line, after welding i have a bit of distortion and im yet to do the other side, so i was thinking of buying new. the main problem on mine too was poor jacking causing rust

could you make up front sills, i know they are more complicated though

i wouldnt use the usual waxoil and ive not had any experience with the professional line. currently im restoring the underside of my zed to concourse finish, removing every speck of rust. personally i am using the bilt hamber range. first off im removing all underseal, seam sealer and paint with wire brushes etc. next up is rust removal with a wire wheel followed by a treatment of deox gel. some areas may require cutting out and rewelding. once everything is back to shiny metal (all rust removed from the pitting) i spray over with electrox primer (90% zink). i will be over coating all this with an epoxy mastic then 2k black. all sill, cavities etc will be treated with bh cavity wax. should last forever then (well a long time) ill be posting up some pics etc in my build diary soon

thanks for spoiling it:cursing:

i think they are all on your drive mate

sub frames are identical mate

no need to drill a hole, there are loads of holes as standard where they sprayed wax from the factory. not that well in most cases

there is a guy on the sxoc running one in an s13 made, head over there for his build diary

i know that feeling. car was going to be back on the road last summer after a quick freshen up. now its not even going to be this summer due to a nut and bold restoration, bare metal respray and replacement everthing. i miss driving a zed ps your enkei wheels are the same fitment as i will be running, including the tyre widths (except mine are 17" rpo1's

love that 240

on the subject of etypes i went to the etype celebration at shelsly walsh hilclimb at the weekend, took loads of pics but didnt think anyone would be interested here. my dad is currently restoring a series 2 etype at the moment, while i appreciate its a great looking car (not as nice as a series 1) i prefer my zed. The etype for him came out when he was about 12 or so, a similar time to me and the zed. both are old cars now, both very good looking in my opinion but the zed does look dated, compared to a new car. thats not a bad thing, its just it is 20 years old now, soon people will stop putting crappy kits on them and start appreciating them for the original design, (99 spec included as original) i think the supra and 3000gt are aging worse and the rx7 perhaps a little better. im building my zed to look as true to the original line as possible with some subtle alterations

not selling the shorty mate, was after those wheels. they look amazing:thumbup: you are more than welcome to pop up and look at the shorty though if you are in the market for one as you are just down the road. you wouldnt want it at the moment anyway, its in a million bits and currently upside down (literally) in the garage. ive been meaning to pop over and see your for ages. ps its a tt manual targa

you can test fit them permanently on my swb if you would like

like this

i would inspect the arms/ subframe for any damage as well judjuing by the prang it had

i would really like a nissan v8 but they are hard to come by in this country, ive got a toyota 1uz sitting in my garage that i was going to put into my 200sx but that project got sidetrached by the 300 restoration. its quite tempting to put the toyota engine in

i remember when this car was sold the first time, if it still going strong after all this time it sounds like its not an internal issue to the engine, could be somthing like a broken engine mount/loose bracket etc. you could try working around the engine with a stethiscope trying to pin it down a bit