dougal200

thanks for the kind words hope it will be done soon the best bits are still to come. would have really liked to have finished it with a twinz rear bumper but time and funds wont allow. still it will be a very clean look with a 99 spec and simple paint scheme. was just thinking, anyone got any idea what it would be worth, not that ill be selling her

Thanks Gary I love swb's not many detailed pics on the net so sometimes its a bit tricky putting things back right on that subject, do you know what bolts up to the 4 blot holes on the fuel tank straps? is there a heat shield?

that's about it for today ive got a full weekend at it so hoping for some good progress would like to have it down on the ground before I put more weight in it. don't know what id do if it fell off the frame:wacko: so by sunday it might even have wheels and look a bit more like a zed I will build up the doors over the next week, hoping to have it water tight soon thanks for the kind words dave its actually the first full restoration that I know of too, ive looked all over the net as a bit of a guide. I hope this helps people in the future. I have a deadline for finishing. im moving to Hong Kong for a year or two in 7 weeks. don't think ill get to drive it by then

where ever possible ive used stainless cap head bolts, other than that ive replated the originals so on to the suspension test fit of subframe [/img] front suspension, already built [/img] [/img] general overview. im loving the contrast of the suspension against the body. the black and white theme will run throughout with some grey thrown in to break it up [/img]

quick update from the last week. had my best mates wedding last weekend so progress is a little slow the body is now painted, so now on with the fun bit. putting all the shiny bits on brake pipes [/img] [/img] [/img]

missed your post si feel free to pop by any time im in Evesham now but not too far away, ive always loved your car, infact its been a huge influence on mine. id love to see it in the flesh.

Hi mate, seem to remember you relocating the battery on your slick top to the area behind seats, do you have any photos or tips

from personal experience on my 200sx fitting polly bushes to the rear wrecked the ride comfort. The bushes were tight to fit and caused the rear travel to be very tight through its arc of movement. it made the back end very bouncy, this was also fitted with coilovers but it was the bushes that caused it. those were not es bushes and the 200 is a lot lighter on the back. for my rebuild i am using new arms with spherical joints but i have kept the original (new) bushes in the alloy upright. if you look at the movement the rear arms go through you will see that you need some sort of complience on the outer bushes, somthing that i personally dont think is suited to a poly bush and will cause stresses in ways that were not originally designed for. personally i would stick to replacement oem, if you are doing the front tension rod bushes be very careful as the single piece ones will destroy things

i had similar but when selling my 350z got a text saying they would pay full price, was present for son. they said they had to go away the next day etc. just ignored it

would be good to see how its going mate, excellent job so far

most arms are similar, ive noticed finish is a big factor though the cheap ones are nasty and rust up quickly. obviously the spherical bearings are also real cheap on the ebay specials. I have a full set of godspeed arms but they are not that great, but ive repainted them all now. if you can afford it, spl are proper quality I have their coilovers and they are fantastic

oh and as a special thanks to my dad, here is a pic of his motor we have nearly finished off

kind words indeed all, its these comments that keep me going. that plus a large hand from my dad and the support of a fantastic woman

I did this :w00t:

oh and found pic of hatch

a final pic of the typical finish im getting. Im in no way a pro painter and im sure those with an eye for paint will see the orange peel a mile off, im also painting outside so there is no escaping the bugs and dust. my solution to both will be a full wet sand up to 3000 grit followed by a good machine polish, once the paint has hardened for a bit. looking back over the body tonight I got a few runs and some went on dry. I might give it a quick sand down in the week and a final blow over. oh and for the record, the colour is ford frozen white. its about as white as I could get without metallics etc which I didn't want to spray. hope you guys like

roof bars gloss black, a bitch to mask off [/img] and finally the hatch is also painted but no pic, its despoilered and dewipered. for the record it was a pain dude to previous owners adding holes etc and dents. no pic at the moment thought. ill find it doors not quite so bad

now for the body the old man sanding down the engine bay, the red paint is a guide coat over the 2k high build, when all the red is gone, its flat [/img] [/img] [/img] done [/img]

ok big update, lots of paint drive shafts [/img] back plate [/img] front arb brackets and hand brake cable mountings ive repainted all the adjustable suspension arms, rear hubs, rear uprights, subframe too but ill post pics as I build them up

id be happy to do a swap with you on balance bars. im doing a minimalist thing in the engine bay so one less connection the better for me

i have a zcentre style one somewhere, never fitted.

yeah, its a bit of a mine field if you get stuck then im happy to help, ive also got a spare set of the pivots for the n/a and the wheel bearings i think plus a set for the tt im only down the road in evesham so if you need some help let me know. as you may know im in the middle of a complete restoration of my shortie and im just about to put the rear end back together so if you want to come and see let me know :-)

hope this video explains it I did a lot of research on this when doing a z32 rear brake conversion onto my s14 and im just rebuilding the brakes/hubs for my restoration. anything else, im happy to help

its a bit of a compromise on the seam type. i butt welded mine as i was concerned that the overlap on the inside would be a rust trap. the down side to this is its so easy to blow holes. the best solution to this is do a series of overlapping tack welds, this also helps keep the heat down which will warp the pannel. ive just finished all mine if you want some pointers plus lots of pics about half way through my build thread. still took a bit of filler to get it back nice though, unless you are going to stone chip

ive had a change of plan on the fuel filter actually. going to rear mount it as in this thread http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324634