markstevens

And the difference between a Z32 and a Z32 is Stuart????LOL

I too have HEARD many bad things about Slick 50, but I hae used it for more than 20 years. Never had a problem. Having said that its not in my Z, and I dont really know why.

Not in a Z but I have added various additives to manual boxes and they have all worked to some degree. Not fussy like an auto, so I would go for it.

sraeea strikes again....

You need to know what it does to know how to use it. It lkeeps the car running after youhave switched off the ignition, why? Because after a fast/long run the turbos get hot and can stay spinning after you have switched it of. Using a timer alows the engine to keep pumping oil to the turbos, if you dont, apart from a lack of lube the oil can cook in the oil ways and block them sooner or later, and the timer allows the turbos to slow down. So work it out for your self from here. Ie how hot/fast/long have you been driving. A good idea is to drive the last few miles slowly anyway.

My Zed is a93 jap auto, and if I get it right the rear wheels will just start to squeal from a standing start. In the dry etc, and its standard. But it wont at full throtle, I need to give it about two thirds.

Its too late now, and I would not buy it anyway as I have one. There was more damage than I imagined from what CJ said. No mention of the engines state of tune, surprise for someone..

HI, been offered a black Z, reg number M95OFR. Damaged to n/side front corner, last time I saw this, I think, was at The Crows Nest. Ring any bells?

You can do a compression test, sort of, by holding something over the plug hole, a rounded piece of wood? If it trys to blow the wood away from the hole it lkooks good, if it just gives a whimper, not so good. I know a guage is better but if you dont have one. And comparing all of the cylinders will give you a comparison which you can work to in the short term. Ie one blows hard, and another one blows soft.

SRAAE Wrote **** u I take it thats Never then? Just asking. Lol

When is SRRAE going to learn how to read???? And then engage his brain, just a bit?

Only way to tell is to Look, but it can be case of just replace ing the bent parts, usually bolt on, and so might be really not too bad.

and put some vaseline around the front and rear oil seals first. make sure the converter is IN, spin it to help make sure. if you look at the input shafts, for want of a better name, count them, and see if you get the same number of "clunks" as you put the converter in.

looked at your site, if I remember they used to be called Van Matic. I used to deal witht hem years ago. cant say I was very impressed with their rebuilds then. They do, If I am right, sell a ot of parts, which were OK, but there rebuilding dept was a bunch of immigrants who thought they knew best. More like a production line then a Specialist Operation back then. As I said, ask Ken iat STA, he knows them, if they are Van Matic.

The "Nose" of the converter drives the pump, so maybe the pump was worn, and damaged the converter, maybe. And again maybe not. But even if it was worn they can often be cleaned and reused ok. Who knows? And as I said, have you got a new pump or your old pump inside? May be you could ask them that, and let them know you are going to have the pump and converter checked to see if they are new? The size of the firm means nothing, look at Claims Direct for a dishonest company which was big. And how do they get big? sometimes by ripping peole off, especially when, like auto boxes, most people know nothing about them. I see no way you will get anything from them, but I feel, and it is hard from here, that they did what I said. And you stand more hope of winning the Lotto than getting them to own up to it. Why dont you ask Ken? I feel for you but cant help really.

Black,TT auto, 1993 Series 2, 51000 miles, imported by me, 17" split rims, UK clocks, exhaust, apart from that standard and very nice. Interested??

Hi Mark, all of this is IMHO, it has been years since I did autos. There is an inconsistency with what your man is saying, "He says they have also taken the sump off the gearbox and there are bits of shrapenel there but he doesnt think it is the gearst as I would have noticed this going?!? Ie. this problem just appeared! He thinks it is more likely to be some sort of fricion material thats showing?!?" Friction material is not metal, well it can be in some boxes but genereally not, so what is he saying??? Yes the gear set is expensive, and this can be cleaned OK, but the converter, IF full of bits needs cutting in half, cleaned and then rewelded to do a proper job. Otherwise it can, and often does, all start again. So your "new" converter might not be so "new" anymore. Another trick is to charge for a new converter and just repaint the old one. Same can apply to the pump, did you see the old parts, might not help much as they are hard to know where they came from. ie which car. My opinion, not knowing why the converter and pump were changed, is that metal fiilings were left in the box, and these have caused a drop in presure, which you may not have noticed, and this then could have wrecked the bands/clutches. In simply terms, why is the pump blocked? If he did a proper job it should not be possible, becasue he would have ensured the box was CLEAN.. Having the pump out means he was only minutes away from checking the clutches etc. If he did not look he was wrong. If he did, and they were OK see my last paragraph. Its his fault, without knowing all the facts, but someone who fits a new converter because the old one was worn out (guess) and does not fully clean the rest of the box, (and at that stage he might as well rebuild it) is no good at autos. IMHO. And why was the pump changed?

Yes, but WHY was the converter changed???? see my earlier post...changing the converter alone is almost always a total waste of money, and if there are more metal filings in the box how do you get all of them out of the converter?? easy answer, you dont very well, and then they migrate throught the box again and away you go. get on the roundabout.

Hi Mark, if I may ask why did you have the converter replaced, and who did it, was it Ken? In this weather it is easy for the autobox to get too hot, and if it does the fluid does expand a lot and it can dump it on the floor, maybe the reason you are low? But, the reason I ask about the converter is if it was shot, it was probably making swarf, lots of very fine metal, or alluminium particles. These are very hard to clean out of all of the nooks and crannies of an autobox, cooler, cooler pipes etc etc. And then they go and get stuck somewhere and this can make the box go wrong, easy.

Trouble is low fluid can wreck the box if not caught soon enough.

Sounds to me like low on fluid, (you went up hill too?) check engine warm, remove dip stick, wipe dry and dip. In park...

Thanks sraae for you helpfull post, as usual, dont you think if I knew the miles/kilo question I would have put it? Thanks every one else, its about what I thought, and I know I gave little info, but thats all I have, and I needed a bit of prior knowledge before possibly viewing the car. Hence the "ballpark" comment.

Hi, been offered a SWB TT manual Fairlady, exhausts and 18" wheels, in red is all I know, H reg, 115K mile/kilos. Leather. Whats it worth, ball park figure , supposed to be nice...

When I went to Billing I saw several cars with Chrome/stainless wheel rims trims, mostly on OZ wheels I think, anyone know where to get them from as my wifes 18" OZ wheels need tiding on the rims.

Personally I doubt a flat spot will cause the problem as it is said to come and go, flat spots are always there and in my exp can be balanced out anyway.