markstevens

Thats exactly what I thought, 3/4 of an hours and its off.

I hear what you say, I would not try this on my Z, but IF I try, and I am not at all sure I will now, it will be on a 200sx, loads cheaper and easier to work on. (I know I am a coward) Thanks again

Thanks Aaron, so if you re-assamble as it was dis-assembled are they OK?

Thanks Willeo, I looked and he dosnt want emailing, so maybe he will read this and contact me. I thought I would have a go, cant be hard they are too simple, some people say they have to be balanced afterwards, not sure why but I dont know. Kits are on Ebay for about 50 dollars and there is nothing to them!

Hi, I want to rebuild a T25 turbo, anyone know where to get the bearings and seals? Thanks

Thats good news, if its burnt its bad. Lets hope its electrical.....I will ask my brother if you like?

I hope I am wrong, but I think its probably the third gear clutch, this is way too small for these cars and is often first to go. Michael is away for weekend. Good Luck

When an auto has gone wrong mechanically, by that I mean its not an electrical problem, any use will cause more damage. If the friction material is no longer on the plates and band, for what ever reason, then it is floating around in the box. And/or as the clutch plates/band have no covering they are now metal to metal, result, nice tiny metal filings are being spread throughout the box. Result? valves get stuck, wrong presures, things wear faster and the filter gets blocked. It could be said the damage is allready done. It could also be said that everytime you drive it you do more damage. As for it should be OK. If driving it is your only option, fine. Otherwise dont drive it. IMHO. Also, forgot to say, these metal particles and pieces of paper will, little or much, be spread throughout the box, converter and cooler. You can have the box rebuilt/new one. And if you dont FULLY CLEAN the rest, you WILL have problems very soon. This will sound familier to people here. The other thing about driving it, damage to hard parts, ie clutch drums, gear train etc etc can be caused too. More expense, as these are charged on top of a rebuild.

Is the trans oil burnt?

I "think" its because when d2 is selected it uses a band as well as a clutch, or similar combo, the clutch is dead/dying, so when in d2 the band assists the clutch, hence some drive. But I can be wrong.....Check the smell/colour of the fluid, if it stinks of burning its bad.

Trans fluid did not absorb water years ago, it does now, but make your own minds up. As for driving your car when only 1 and 2 are working, ask yourself what has gone wrong and will further driving do more damage, I think yes it will. It is likely that the filter is blocking hence loosing drive after a while. It is nothing to do with the oil getting thinner. Talk to someone who knows...

I agree the offenders should be named, when its sure they have offended, and also add names form other forums too, ie 200sx, GTO etc as a few of us move around.

I used to agree about the real need for an extra cooler, but my brother fitted one for me without asking, and said I really needed it. He only chraged his costs, so it was not for profit.

skyline dave, give my brother, Michael, a ring, he is happy to chat, without obligation. 01525 385159

Hi, with regard to the water. moisture really, in the oil. Please bear with me as I am only working form memory. Sealed boxes, yes sealed for life, but their life is over when the box dies, whenever that is, but they have to have a breather, when the oil gets hot it expands, the presure leaves thru the breather, when the box/oil cools it suck normal air back in. Including the moisture in the air. Modern oils are designed to suspend the moisture and not let it mix, but over time too much moisture builds up in the oil. This moisture attacks the glue holding the friction materiel ie clutch and band facings and any paper gaskets in the box. Often when a filter is blocked it is these "paper" friction materiels doing the blocking. (Burnt off or soaked off). My Bro feels that it is considered OK by the manufactures to offer "sealed for life" boxes because this means cheaper servicing, in the beginning anyway, but after a few years/miles it becomes irrelevant when the box is shot.

I have not asked him yet, but I guess if they are sealed then moisture cant get in????Maybe it only applies to older non sealed boxes. ??????

I am not going to argue, you may be right, however this is what he says, he should know. I will ask again to be sure.

Who? My brother, his company is Automatics, in Leighton Buzzard, as for what, he is doing me a few notes so I can post them. But it involves enlarging certain holes in the seperator plate and uprating the right springs etc. He says the fluid should be changed once a year becasue it absorbs water, a bit like brake fluid I guess. As you only change a third or so you only really dilute the old with new.And autos hate water.

It could "pool" in the bottom, and depending on the actual flow through the cooler it might stay there for ages. Sounds like take it off and clean it, or drive it and see. Depending on how brave you are. I think if it was me I would take it off, or remove the pipes (?) and look/clean. Especially after the probs you have had.

did you check the return as well? Not that this will make it smoke, just asking seeing as you have had a prob. The oil cant get in if it cant get out. If you know what I mean? Quite a lot of oil can get into the coolers etc when a turbo fails and it might take some time to go fully, but I would guess it wont take long before you cant notice it burning. A lot of air is pushed through when you are driving. How many miles have you been? And make sure everything else is OK too, sometimes you can miss something...

What pipe did you fit? Feed or return?

I have just had valve body modified to make the changes stronger, more positive and the box a lot more responsive. And it lasts longer too. Makes a big difference to how it drives, makes the car feel a lot more modern, and by that I mean the box works WITH you a lot more.

I can give you my brothers number if you want, he will give you some proper advice, Autos are his business.

Sorry TonyC but new filters and oil every 3-4k miles is rubbish. If you need a filter its because there something wrong, and the oil should be changed every year, why? Because the new oils, as in last 10 years or so are less natural and absorb more moisture. Often Z's lose 3rd because that gear is a clutch, and its too small for the job. No offence.

Filter prob blocked, after switcjing it off the muck falls off for a while and unblocks. trouble is why is it blocked. Probably because your box is shot. Sorry.