insanezed

Well ok, just I ask as I have in the past encountered shorter droplinks with aftermarket suspension on various japanese cars, but if you sure they'll be the same as stock ones I'll give Smithy a holla. Thanks fellars.

Need to get new anti rollbar droplinks for the front, they a bit worn, now I have TEIN aftermarket suspension fitted, and need to know the length of the standard droplinks before I get replacements, just in case these are shorter as the car is lowered. So if anyone minds crawling under their zed with a tape measure I'd greatly appreciate it! ;)

I think I may have found the problem, theres a drain plug in between the two ports for the brake lines, it may be loose enough to be leaking, and its directly above where its dripping, so my moneys on that, feels like an allen key fitment. I'll have a proper look in daylight, might just be a case of tightening the fellar up. Hopefully.

Ok, thing is, mine isn't leaking there then, I can see it dripping from the bottom of the master cylinder, its dry round where it joins the servo, I can see drips coming from the midway along the piston housing, just cant work out where its coming from. The two flare nuts on the pipes are tight, thing is, its sitting on the low level every morning when I check it, its leaking that fast and I top it back up to max every day!!! Maybe I should just get another master cylinder.

Ah, so if these seals are on the piston itself, then if they were gone, you'd get leakage down the front of the servo?

Thanks for that.

Where exactly ARE these seals? Is it the two rubber seals at the bottom of the reservoir, or are they on the actual piston or what? And are they easy to replace?

See that nipple type thing on the side to the right of where it says nissan, mine doesn't have that, what is it? Is that from an auto or a manual? Or does it matter?

Mine used to be red too, but was resprayed in met blue in japan, mines a bit darker than bayside blue.

As above, looks like you answered your own question, I'd go with the advice of an oil and filter change fellar.

Ok, I'll give that one a miss and look around for a 92+ one. Thanks.

Would a master cylinder from a 90 tt fit a 93 tt? Just want to be sure before I send money to buy it.

Is there any difference in master cylinders whether its for a manual or an automatic? Or do autos and manuals use the same master cylinder?

Like DGM says, clean up the idle control valve connectors. I had this problem a while back, I used wd40 to clean up the idle valve connector, give it a good spraying.

Its an abbreviation of TEchnical INovation, pronounced as TEEN I'd say.

These are my calipers.

These are the front brakes I refer to.

no extra caliper brackets. The zeds calipers and disk are the same size as Skyline GTS-t disks and calipers so I have been told, but if I put one of my calipers up next to a Skyline GTS-t caliper, it looks the same except the two bits that bolt to the hub seem longer on the zed caliper to accomadate the bigger disk. I'm starting to think that maybe these are GT-R calipers I have. Any brake know-it-alls here?

Right, I got some new drilled and slotted front brake disks for the zed, size of 280mm x 30mm, its a 93 swb tt, now then heres me thinking that it would be an easy swap, but no, they're too small! when I fit the caliper theres only half the pad covering the disk, now I chucked the old disks last weekend and did the job this weekend, so now I wish I kept the old ones to measure them, but looking at the caliper in place the old disk must have been 300mm around about, these were not aftermarket disks or calipers either, they're nissan calipers. My question is, do the swb tt's have bigger disks than the lwb's, I thought all were 280mm across, but it seems that they're not. Any help on this please?

Oups, posted this in the wrong section.

As the title suggests, I'm wondering if theres an inspection hole on the gearbox, and where? Its a manual.

Just ordered a dual fmic, with all hardpipes and new air filters complete. Apparently it seems that you still get good airflow to the rad through these fmics as this was a concern I had, I already have a large air dam as I've got a bomex kit fitted and the bumper is well ventilated, also using a vented headlight panel, also to further assist with cooling I'm removing the sidelights and running cold air ducting hose from there to the rad, and raising the hood at the back to allow the heat to escape more freely.

I've not had a power run done yet, I was going to fit new deeper coolers before I did that, I'm using 18" Rays VR Evolution 4 racing wheels with bridgestone rubber, 18x8 front and 18x9.5 rears. I havn't yet run the car on a 1/4 mile, so dont know ET's or 0-60 times yet, but I'd guess 0-60 to be under 5 seconds easily.

1.3 bar as set by the blitz SBC, and showing 1.3 bar on Blitz boost guage, as mentioned above I believe the injectors max out at +1.5bar, regardless of air temp, I think it cut boost at 1.5 bar because of the injectors maxing out, then again it only did it once and it happened to be a nippy morning so I just put it down to air temp. Also I reckon if It had standard internals they would have gone west a long time ago. I know what det sounds like, and theres nothing like that sound going on, just a nice engine and exhaust note. I've got new brake discs to fit this weekend, so while its all jacked up I think I'll take a peek at the turbos and injectors.

I have a SWB TT manual slicktop with uprated suspension, and having driven a LWB TT targa also, believe me there is a very noticable handling charactaristic, the SWB is inherently a far superior handler as its more compact, rigid and lighter. If you do go for a SWB TT slicktop, go for a manual.