insanezed

Thanks Kirbz, fistly I do know it has a blitz SBC, and the ECU has some sort of aftermarket chip on its system board with japanese scribble all over it. So to check now is the injectors, turbo's and coolers. I've never went stripping back a VG30 before, is it much of a pain to get a view of the injectors or is this going to be a job? Also same with the turbo's, is this a plenum off job, or is there an easier way?

5 hour job to change an injector?

Heres a couple of pics of the zed in question....

All taken on board. I think I'll take time this weekend to have a look at whats what, or whats not lol Thanks for the advice.

Ok thanks for the comments and opinions, however all I was asking was for a rough estimate on power figures. Thing is guys, yeah your right, I dont know the zed very well, I've only had it a short time and this is the reason to join a forum such as this, and what better one? Thing is I brought this car in from japan myself, now it was described as tuned with extensive engine work, so it came with this set up. I've been into Skylines and Supras for years, I can tell you all about them, but I'd always had a thing for the fairlady Z32 and always promised myself one, so when this swb manual tt slicktop cropped up....... anyways... If it runs at 1.5 bar boost which it obviously does, then it's been properly set up to do that, otherwise it wouldn't, or it would be dead, end of, or if it all does goes tits up then I get to crack open the engine and see what we have, which will be interesting and probably enlightening, then rebuild. In the meantime, me's having fun.

I dont know, I have not gone raking around yet, I've had the car for about 10 months, but just never had time to go operating on it, when I find out I'll post back. So until I go looking I dont know. Got any rough ideas about bhp and torque?

I have a swb tt, and has been set up to run up to 1.5 bar boost, and has undergone an ecu chip, various internal components etc etc. It's going on the rollers in march and I'd like to have some kind of idea of what sort of power to expect at around 1.3 / 1.5 bar boost, bhp and torque, as people are asking at what I'm expecting and I've no idea to be honest. I think these are about 280 - 300bhp standard are they? So any guesses on power running around 1.3 rr 1.5 would be super smashing great :smash:

I see, are they easy enough to replace?

Yeah the squeel does sound like a leak, I'll have to have a strip back and investigate, I'm thinking it may well be a leaking servo perhaps? Now about the knocking top suspension link, or the camber arm bushings, is this the same part? If I take my wheel off, where is it? and will it feel loose?

Hi , I have two questions for you guys, first one is a braking one: When I brake hard I'm getting a squeeling noise, now this isn't a squeel coming from the pads, it's coming from inside the car, like from the brake pedal itself, also I'm getting real spoungey feel to the pedal too. The second is I'm getting a knocking / rattling noise coming from the front drivers wheel area, it knocks and rattles when going over ripples in the road, or over small manholes and strangely when coming down a speed ramp but not up a speed ramp which is odd, this happens whether turning or going straight, I changed the anti roll bar endlinks thinking it might be them, but no. Any ideas chaps?

Any chance I can nip over tonight matey for it? Needthis sorting like yesterday lol

Cheers boyo

Sounds different to what mines doing, mines kinda missing, hesitating, irratic revs on idling, it will move but very juddery and won't pass 2000rpm at all, revs drop off at exactly 2000rpm.

I think I need a maf again. Not sure what I did last time, The engine was idling really lumpy and sounded like it was missing badly and very juddery, also wouldn't pass 2000 revs at all, so I disconnected the IC, TPS, the maf connector and the ECU water temp sensor, cleaned them up with WD40 then reconnected, also disconnected the battery in an attempt to reset the ECU, then restarted the engine and was still not running right. Do these sound like symptoms of a knackered maf? The next day I started the engine and it was running mint without fault, So I assumed that the WD40 had a chance to set in overnight as seemed like the ONLY explanation as my first thoughts were the maf, but next day was running mint, if maf was knacked it wouldn't have, or would it?? So does this sound like the maf playing up? Do mafs play up at all, or just stop working dead? Am I barking up the wrong tree thinking it's a maf I need, as I dont want to go out and buy a maf, as they're expensive only to find it's something else. When it runs it runs well, so thats ignition items out, as when things like that go, they go, thats why I'm thinking the maf. What I'd like is if I knew someone with a 300ZX TT local, I could try their maf on mine and see how it runs, then I'd know for sure. So does anyone know anyone with a 300ZX TT in tyne and wear area that can help? :confused:

Ok then, today I went out and started the car and it idled fine, so I left it to idle until the revs dropped to 800 or so, and still was ok, no irratic idling or anything that happened yesterday, so went out for a drive and covered 5 miles at peak temperature, drove nice and easy, then took it up right through the rev range, heavy and light acceleration and hitting max boost without no problems at all. Yesterday I cleaned up all connectors on everything that matters, and sprayed them up with WD40, when I'd finished it made no difference at all, so thought to looking at the maf, so was going to leave it until I could get a new part. So unless it has sorted itself out, or that WD40 has set in nicely and done the job I dont know. So I'm happy that Zed is sorted, but a bit unsure why or how?

Right then I'll get a new MAF. Was just thinking, couldn't be the sparkplugs or anything daft like that could it? I had a look of them, its got iridium plugs fitted, dont know how old they are tho.

Ok thanks

fixable if cracked open, or is it a new one?

Is it a fault that you can see or you cant see? Just I ask as I've been looking through to the filament type thing in the tube and looks all intact, or doesn't that matter?

Ok, I have been at the car again, this time when I disconnected the maf with the engine running it did stall, I'm also getting smell of fuel and missing, bad missing. I have disconnected the battery for a few mins also, dont know if this clears the ecu or not? So symtoms are: Erratic idling, revs dropping almost stalling and sounds like its missing.

Also how you go about checking ecu error codes?

So when you say wipe the stored faults, does this mean to disconnect power to the ecu for a short period then reconnect, ie remove efi fuse or disconnect battery for a few mins? Then if problem persists seek new maf?

Right, on way home from work yesterday, travelled about as mile the car just suddenly started dying, so I pulled over and it was idling wery lumpy and irratically bouncing between 800 - 1200 rpm, so after about 1/2 hour of wiggling connector blocks around to no avail I tried to limp home, on the way home if I tried to pass 2k revs it would judder and stall, so had to keep well below 2k. This morning I was out with the wd40 and a small terminal flathead screwdriver, and cleaned up the connectors on the PTU, TPS, and the E.C.U. Water Temperature Sensor connector, but still no difference. So I started to look at the maf, I disconnected it with the engine idling and made no difference at all, I think I was expecting it to just stall, but it didn't, it just kept on idling irratically as it had done before. Could I have found my bogey, does this sound like the maf has gone, or am I barking up the wrong tree? Anyone?

Straight forward fit, of course you'll need the 324mm disc to go with them.

Check the anti roll bar drop links, this is a small joint that fits between the anti roll bar and the suspension strut, when they are worn they make a knocking rattling sound.