insanezed

Just a little FYI: The car actually runs at 1.5 bar boost with no det or defeating, unless on a really cold day (like under 4 degrees). I turned it to 1.3 bar and have had no problems. The car runs cool, water temp never above 85 and the oil at a steady 100, all the time, all read through the defi gauges so I assume they are as accurate as I can get? Something tells me its time to see what has actually been done to this car.........

Ok, you lot have scared me a little, I'm going to knock the boost down to 1bar now to be on the safe side, at least until I find out whats what and get some uprated coolers. One more question, theres a twisty knob on the side of my ECU and its apparently set fully open, what is that?

Ok cheers for the info, the coolers are stock, not checked the turbos yet, I believe I will get it onto some rollers to see whats what, I've also been planning to upgrade coolers soon too. The chip isn't soldered, its socketed.

Right, having bumped into Zedworld at JAE, they had a mapped ECU for sale and he says I can safely run at 1bar boost, I use a blitz SBC to control boost. So I says that I run at 1.3bar boost, at this he said this would be going backwards for me to fit this one, and that I must be running forged pistons and bigger injectors, and that my ECU must be chipped to run 1.3bar boost, otherwize I couldn't run that much boost. I run 1.3 bar nicely without any det or defeating and pulls bloody strong, its way faster than others I have driven, and I've driven lots. I have only had the zed fresh in from japan for 6 months and this work was obviously done there, so he says to check my chip in the ECU, he said the standard one will have a sticker with 2 lines on it, and insisted that mine didn't and that it must have had some kind of a chip to run 1.3bar. At this the first thing I did when I got home was to crack open the ECU and have a butchers, the chip doesn't have a sticker on it with 2 lines, but a white sticker with the digits Z46 P60 and Z46 P608 felt penned on in red. Does this guy from Zedworld speak the truth, anyone shed any light?

see lol, I have a set of defi din guages that sit above the headunit, pretty neat gear. I have water temp, oil temp and oil press.

Get yourself some defi guages for water and oil temp, they are very accurate and shows how crap the 300's standard temp guages really are. Mine normally peaks at 80c but no more than 85c for water temp regardless of outside air temperature and about 80c for oil temperature. I have a vented front panel, and I'm thinking about venting the back of the hood to allow heat to escape as it does get bloody hot under the hood.

Right, I have noticed lately that when I'm out and about the cars idle speed sometimes sits at around 1500 rpm when I take my foot off the gas, and other times sits just below 1000rpm which is about right, its a swb tt. I'm thinking its maybe related to an idle speed sensor or something, but I'm probably way off. If it is that can it be cleaned or does it need to be changed, and where can I find it in the engine bay? Any suggestions?

Smithy, I got some new front discs from ebay, drilled and grooved jobbies. thanks anyway.

It's definately the discs upon closer inspection, well past their best.

Thanks chap.

My front discs are a little warped and need new ones, so I'm looking at getting a set of drilled and grooved jobbies, its a 93 swb tt, now I'm lead to believe they're 280mm but need someone to confirm this before I go get new ones, I tried on some spare discs I have lying around that were from my Skyline R33 GTS-t, I thought they were the same size but the Skyline discs are slightly smaller, d'oh! Anyone?

I think I may well do, I'll know for sure nearer the time.

It's been sugested to me that I should replace the two paralell pipes that have been fitted where the box used to be with an X pipe, thus balancing the two banks and creating back pressure. Sounds about right yes?

Hi, I have an aftermarket exhaust on my zed twin turbo, it was on the car when it came in from japan, however the centre box knacked, it was making a vibrating noise so I reckon the baffle pipes inside went, anyways theres a couple of flanges about 4 inches from the front and the flanges at the back end are about a foot towards the rear cans on the bends, what my question is, is will any centre box like a standard one fit in via the flanges, or with it being an aftermarket thing will I have to have a centre box made for it? I replaced the box with two pipes thinking this would sort it, but it's making the car run like a bag of hammers, something to do with eliminating back pressure or something, so it has to have a box. Any help?

Right, I have a SWB manual twin turbo, it currently has a decatted exhaust which it had when it came in from Japan, it's a 3" bore exhaust and both sides meet in a centre box then come out the other side to two exits, now, the box got rattly as the welds must have gone inside, so I today had the box replaced with two seperate pipes to replace the box, So having done this the car lost a lot of compression due to lack of back pressure caused by the both sides of the exhaust not meeting which equalises the pressure, am I on the right tracks? So I went back to the garage who did the work and explained to them what was going on and that the both sides of the exhaust should meet in the middle somewhere, so the guy that did it says to fetch it back sat morning to sort out, which is fair enough. What he's going to do is to cut a hole in the two new pipes opposite each other and fit another 3" pipe between them to equalise the pressure which will induce the back pressure that I've lost, so it would look like a 'H', know what I mean? Will this surfice? Will this do the job as he says it will?

Oups, I totally forgot about yesterday, shame cos I was bored out of my head all day too! Just remembered a day late. Damn. Was it a good day?

Didn't make it up to the jap meet, was busy fitting new starter, I'll be at the next one tho.

Ok fellars, I've not been to one of the regional meets yet, was meant to be at the last one but couldn't make it. Should make this one, so count me in. 1. Apache 2. Mac. 3. Steve300ZX 4. Djtomo 5. Paulg 6. Chris Eggy 7 Chunk? 8 Tizer? 9 2-up....... will try 10 ChrisC?? 11 Elmo 12 Big Kim 13 Insanezed

As it happens it started to slip again yesterday, I have fitted a new one now, the old one was well buggered, think I'll have it reconned and either keep it as a spare or sell it.

Oh yeah, one more thing... Wheres your intake?

Ah ok then, I can see that its two single coolers joined together, that was my query really. I can see by your pic how it all works, its just modified pipes really and I can see you've needed to modify the plastic holders for the sidelights, one more thing tho..... Did you have to relocate your oil cooler as it looks like thats it on the rhs infront of the wheel? My oil cooler is located just in front of the rad.

First disconnect the battery, you dont want to unbolt the live harness without disconnecting the battery!! Then you need to remove the 14mm nut and the 14mm bolt which holds the starter, remove the power - 12mm nut, and the earth strap, this is a connector block, usually its easier to remove the protective plate from the starter - 3x 10mm bolts, and you should also need to remove the exhaust section from the turbo elbow - 3x 14mm nuts, and release the flange on the other end of the middle section of the exhaust - 2x 17mm nut and bolts. Then refit new starter and refit exhaust middle section, reconnect the battery, job done, should take you a good hour.

I've checked the nut and bold, all is tight. Mysterious.

I notice you have an FMIC on there, was that much of a chew on to fit? I was going to uprate mine with bigger deeper ones, but would prefer the front mount ideally.

Right, a couple of weeks ago I noticed that my starter was making a grinding noise on turning the key, this happened occasionally, but soon got worse, doing it 2 and 3 times before it would work, so I got my battery tested as this can cause the problem if the battery's on its way out. Battery was tip top, so I left the garage who tested the battery with a grinding starter, went home, checked on here to place a wanted starter motor ad in the wanted section, then after a few days of starter grinding horribleness I had a reply from a member off here saying he had one, so I called him and sent off a cheque promptly, after trying to start the car 4 times before the starter worked I headed off to the nearest post box, got out of my car, posted the cheque, got back into my car and since then it has not failed to start, the starter motor has been cock-on since then. so just to clarify, starter motor was on its last legs prior to posting cheque to pay for new starter. After posting cheque, the starter is miraculously tip top without a problem since last friday, a week ago. So I'm going to keep this new starter as a spare just in case. Anyone going to shed some light for me? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: