edk83

I had my dashboard in the house last night, cleaning it and glueing the lifting bit around the vents. Thought, I know while im hear im gonna drill a hole for a usb lead. Drilled the hole, got a mini b lead and cut the a connector off. Threaded it through the dash and stripped the wires back, found the power wires. Thought I'll test it with my road angel, plugged in the usb and connected the power to a jump starter pack. Road angel comes on for 2 seconds and turns off. Ok, so my jump starter might be about flat. Plugged the road angel in pc and still nothing? Tested the same usb lead on something else, fine. WAIT UP! usb is 5v not 12v SHIT One dead road angel! There is a step down in the fag lighter plug on them. Doh Maybe I wont hard wire that in then! (well I will but with the step down) :mad:

seen one in a mk3 ford escort!

I fitted new heater matrix and water pipes today :)

from where lol?

All the hard bits done today! After about 40min of trying to get the heater box back in relised the air con box had to come out as that was the last one to go in. So I started taking the air con box out and wasnt able to get it to come free. Spent about 15min turning the big nuts in the engine bay but they just turned. I now know that you have to get a spanner on each end! Anyway got sick of messing so got the bolt cutters out and chopped the pipes off! Pulled them out from the engine bay side and bunged up the holes. Took the air con box appart and removed the matrix, blocked the holes in this so its now just a connetor pipe. Water pipes back on! Gromit seen better days tho!

Got a good divx of it, gonna watch it later!

you would tho lol The z from kill bill came up on ebay in the us a few months ago, I was thinking about getting it but could never be 100% it was genuine. I think it was a proper collector selling it tho.

Mine has the cancel bar from z center on, needed new ball joints tho.

I like that. removing the front bumper might be a bit of a pain tho!

oh yeah, forgot about that as I have always had the apexi on.

It is advisable, if left on the cam cover they can overheat and fail. Just a case of carefully cutting back the shielding on the loom. Mine is mounted under the nose panel.

I have been putting it off for about a year now lol. I'm booked in on the rollers on the 9th of jan so gotta be done by then!

Yeah, if you took the fluid pot off the bolts would be easier to get to but you would need to bleed it all. If I had to do it again I probably wouldnt take the dash out but I had the heater matrix to do as well, new headunit, gauges and want a general tidy up behind there.

Yep Not easy to get to with the pot on etc, but better than bleeding it again imo Getting the clutch pedal out is quite easy once I unclipped the main wiring loom. I had a look in the engine bay for the air con pipes but they have been removed, just the washing machine type connections on the firewall. I'd like to take the air con matrix out but not sure if its needed for the heater ecu as there is some wiring going to it.

Well another few hours at it! New clutch booster now installed! The two 12mm nuts in the engine bay are a proper pain to get to! It took me about an hour with a combination of bendy sockets, bluetac and shredded fingers! Anyhow the master cylinder came off with no fluid leakage etc, still at the same mark on the pot. Bolted it all back up, checked car was in gear, release hand brake, press clutch pedal with foot, car rolls! Fook me it works and all! Looks like I have managed it without bleeding the fluid as the seal was never breached. Tomorrow I will be putting the heater box back in and fitting the new water pipes, then the engine bay can be tidyed up before the dash goes back.

edk83@hotmail.com :)

No using photoshop! Although I will do it for real soon!

I just removed the Z badge :) Has to be gif and 100x100 pixels or smaller

And I updated me Avatar!

Sounds like its on safety boost and your oem gauge is rubbish. Resetting the ecu might require the battery being out for more than an hour. And once disconnected hold down the brake pedal for 5 sec to drain any power left in the caps on the boards.

Fluid is 2 months old as had the series 2 master cylinder fitted during the engine rebuild! I'll have a word with the bloke that built it tomorrow :)

If i just undo the two 12mm nuts in the engine bay will the booster slide off the back? Will this cause a fluid leak and how are the booster and the master cylinder connected?

The replacement is a good used one, had to buy a conversion kit, ie full gearbox to get one tho! I have the master cylinder from a series 2 car so the bleed nipple is on the cylinder itself, no extra pipework, if its the same as doing breaks then its easy as you say. Is there anything to know about disconnecting the booster from the master cylinder or do i just take off the two bolts engine bay side and pull the cylinder off with pot?

Well my target for today was to get the heater matrix and clutch booster both changed, didnt quite get there tho. Spent about another half and hour trying to get the heater box out. Then a mate comes down and goes it will be the water pipes in the engine bay stopping it. Nar I took them off when I made the loopover pipe. Thought I would check just to be sure and Fook! When my new engine was fitted they must have put some water pipes back on before remembering the loop pipe! Great I thought lets just quickly get them off.... Turns out when they were put on the engine would have been out. The screw heads on the hose clips were both facing downwards.... Two hours and lots of bendy extensions later the pipes come off and out the heater box pops, easy :dance: Took a couple of looks at it and thought how the hell does the matrix come out then? Further inspections shows it just slides out but that cable on the tap is a bit of a fiddle. Anyhows thats all built back up again now so I started on the clutch booster thinking it would be easy to get out with no dash in. I loosened everything and took out the big piviot bolt etc from the pedal but couldnt get it to budge. I then went and checked the new one for reference and spotted that its bolted in from the engine bay too. Had a look there and saw that its connected directly to the master cylinder so this will have to come off too. :wack: Can anyone give me any pointers here and will I have to bleed my clutch afterwards? I was looking to see what the pedal pulls on to activate the clutch and saw that it all goes through the booster, this will need adjusting to the exact same length as the old one I take it. Mmm, do you think this has been leaking ?! :shock:

I think its mainly because they are not driven like a mondeo, I bet many of them had seen a fair few track days. I take my car to John Noble motorsport in Chesterfield to be setup on thier rollers. Noble = 3.0 v6 TT, my car = 3.0 v6 TT They have been very good, bloke who did my car knew exactly what he was dealing with.