TopLess

It has been said that because the SE members don't turn up to meets that they are not interested, this is not an accurate assumption, the room wasn't empty or disinterested as shown by some meetings. To close the SE region was a decision made in haste, and now the SE members have to contribute to a thread to open it again, the area of the country containing the most people, doesn't sound to me like the most constructive route for the club?

I only organised two successfull meets last year with 40plus members turning up, but now there is no section for me to post any more potentially succesful meets?

Can you kindly answer my question? You know the score :)

The Virginia Water meet was successful, IIRC there was circa 15 cars at that meet! The Surrey rolling road day was successful, there was 20+ cars there! I think it may be poignant to ask what good does it do the club to have an area deleted also why the SE members weren't consulted?

Finding it difficult to understand why the area was deleted without consulting the members, there are still meetings in the area that could be arranged, if it could be reinstated it would be appreciated?

Thanks for the reply but I don't want to go wireless, and modem/router for both would mean running another 10M wire which I don't want to do!

IMO the vented nose panel has nothing to do with it, the leak comes from the bumper seal between the headlight panel, and go and polsih your cowboy boots:p

I want to try out xbox live but have a cabling/modem question! I currently have 1 phone line 1 adsl filter with modem and laptop connected to this. On the phone outlet I have my home phone and hard drive tv recorder connected to this (tivo). I want to twin again the phone line to the tv recorder, stick a modem on it to supply internet to the xbox, can it be done?

why don't you test it out to see if it works?

Not really the engine needs very little energy (air+fuel) to reach max rpm, so a very small increase in boost means the engine reaches max rpm before any noticeable boost is attained. Think of it another way, if you think of all the rotating parts of the engine, they probably weigh 30lbs (just a guess!), think of the energy needed just to move the components of the engine, not much in fact we can turn it over by hand. So the energy needed for the engine to rev to max rpm is a fraction of the energy needed when it is connected to and trying to move 1500kg of car!

The car reaches max rpm before the turbos spool to reach normal driving boost levels! Imagine you are driving along the motorway and without changing gear you floor the accelerator, it takes time to reach max rpm, because it is powering the weight of the car. If you are in neutral and at a standstill the engine revs very quickly before the turbos have time to boost and would be bouncing off the rev limiter, before you get any boost.

On some exceptional cars you can, some of the variable vane turbos can achieve it. What happens IIRC is the engine reaches max rpm before the turbos can reach boost. Imagine an athlete running 100M, he will use a certain amount of fuel and air to get to his maximum speed. Now make the athlete pull a 300ZX (1500KG) 100M, he will be using more fuel and air, and be slower. It is the same with the engine, it is not moving the weight of the car and requires minimal power to reach max rpm, because it is free of weight restricting its revolutions per minute.

The boosted air comes from the close of the throttle bodies, like slamming a door shut in a wind tunnel, the air compresses because it temporarily has nowhere to go, and this activates the dump valve.

The dump valves going off don't indicate positive boost, it means the throttle body has closed and the backed up air is going out of the DV which is set particularly low.

Have had a think and there is a way of getting +ve boost when stationary, because of a defect on the car, but with all the teddies strewn asunder, I am offski :(

Afraid the car should not be boosting positively when stationary, you may have got pressure approaching 0 from -9psi, and that may have given the appearance of positive boost? The engine will rev because it has no load before it needs or requires any boost.

Barclays are BAAAAAAAAAAADDDDDD though, went in to set up a standing order for £160, l was then sent letters by Barclays, the twat had set it up for £16000. Then I had my card details used by people in India, Barclays stopped it, but when I asked when my new card would be sent out I was told 10 days, had to borrow cash to see me through:xxx:

Agreed particularly in the WET, this whole exercise shouts out for people to refurb their calipers and renew their brake fluid regularly!!!!!!!!!!

Dave I think there is a crossed line :) I am not Legrath, I am much better looking :D Also a rad cap does not influence warming up time, a thermostat does.

Pressure not a problem, it leaks from the top of the cap, where the press fitting is underneath the sticker!

Thats a fair old way for whoevers pushing you :D Have a good one mate:duffer::duffer::duffer:

You can bypass the plenum warming system, and plumb the water coolant direct to the turbos. You can fit aluminum replacements for bottom hoses. Uprated radiator, uprated rad cap (not nismo). Redline water wetter Refill coolant at 50/50 af/water ratio, or the anti corrosion element of the af is not effective!

IIRC the brake fluid should be changed every two years and can I urge people to change it as it makes a hell of a differance, remember the abs unit needs bleeding as well! I think the lesson is how many zeds are out there with crappy brakes, i.e. pads/discs/fluid/calipers and it looks like this may have contributed to ending a zedders life :(

The stoptech advice is relevant, but the R33 upgrade does work well with the ABS on a stock zed, I believe if you go bigger than that, then there are issues arising. The thing about this test is it is comparing brakes on a 15 year old without having their calipers rebuilt and no knowledge of when the brake fluid was renewed, also I presume the van is relatively new?