So, I'll probably regret this but what the hey!!

Just home from a 600 km round trip to go fetch this:innocent::whistling:

 

 

 

1989 Factory manual TT SWB!!:yes:

 

It's missing a few bits and has some rust, also has a "Noddy and Big Ears" themed engine bay:scared::thumbdown:

 

 

Was running before it had its gearbox, diff, drive shafts, brakes and exhaust stripped off it:whistling:

Needs a bonnet, new trims, and some paint and bodywork, but it'll be a work in progress.

Have to wait and see how I get on, figured I have a fair few spare bits from the other car lying around, so might as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb!! :thumbup1:probably struggle with it but at least it'll keep me occupied for a bit:thumbup:

As a side note, soldering in-line wiring is not an approved method of wiring on any regulated aircraft. Environmental splices (crimp terminals) up to a certain number per length of wire or a complete new wire. Solder is for circuit boards.

 

That's because all aviation wiring is internal or in sealed areas.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Don’t start him up again Joel.

 

Yeah Joel, shut up!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

That's because all aviation wiring is internal or in sealed areas.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

Yeah Joel, shut up!! [emoji38] [emoji38] [emoji38]

Yeah when did you last see a fog light hanging from the elevator on a A380?

I must admit I've never seen a joint made using the technique below fail in all the years I have done

them - maybe I'm just lucky.

 

I’ll have to agree with Joel on this one. A proper crimped fitting is better than a soldered joint. You’ll never find a solder in a motorsport wiring loom.

 

HOWEVER, I will caveat that with the fact PROPER crimps and crimping tools are expensive. The stuff you can buy in maplins doesn’t get close to the proper stuff.

 

A bit of light reading for you

 

https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/solder-vs-crimping/

Edited February 19, 20187 yr by nickz32

I've had wires come out of crimps, but I've never had solder fail. And heat shrink looks nicer so that's what I'm sticking with :)

Both ways require proper execution as solder or crimp can fail if not done correctly.

 

But lets face it our cars dont fly and dont compete in hard enough racing to worry about a joint failing.

 

This started off with scotchlocks anyway which arent a crimp type connector. They are just rubbish.

 

I will continue to trust in my soldered joints where i use them.

 

If ever i have to fit a cat1 alarm to a lemans car or an Apache i will bear the crimp in mind.

That's because all aviation wiring is internal or in sealed areas.

No it isn’t.

 

I must admit I've never seen a joint made using the technique below fail in all the years I have done

them - maybe I'm just lucky.

To be fair, it is a widely accepted practice in the automotive industry due to its low cost and ease, it is generally fine if done properly but an in-line splice will always be superior.

 

I've had wires come out of crimps, but I've never had solder fail. And heat shrink looks nicer so that's what I'm sticking with :)

I’m not talking those cheap Halfords crimp terminals with garish big plastic sleeves, I’m talking about an environmentally sealed in-line splice (which is terminated using a specific crimp tool). If it’s between Halfords crimps them and soldering then it’s soldering all the way!

 

So I’m summary, I’m just being awkward and showing off the fact that I use these... just because I can? The splices are still relatively inexpensive but a crimp tool would set you back around £100.

These are very good connectors. You slip it over one wire then twist the conductors together along the length then slip the connector back across the joint aligning that ring of solder across the bare conductors. Then warm it with a heat gun and the solder ring melts to make the connection and the sleeve shrinks and the 2 red rings make a perfect seal around the insulation of the cable.

 

I’m not talking those cheap Halfords crimp terminals with garish big plastic sleeves, I’m talking about an environmentally sealed in-line splice (which is terminated using a specific crimp tool). If it’s between Halfords crimps them and soldering then it’s soldering all the way!

 

This is kinda my point. ;)

 

Unfortunately mil-spec and aviation spec cable splicing and jointing systems that are used in motorsport applications aren't something that Joe public knows about and can get at his local auto store. Those crappy bullet connectors that you see in autoparts stores are dreadful. They're weak and have zero environmental protection. It also doesn't help that the low voltage automotive cabling is thin and cheap.

These i use alot on cars. They are crimped with a ratchet crimp tool then heatshrunk to form a watertight seal as there is a resin inside. Very quick and easy.

Unfortunately mil-spec and aviation spec cable splicing and jointing systems that are used in motorsport applications aren't something that Joe public knows about and can get at his local auto store.....

 

I get that, but that’s surely why we use places like this, to learn more about the other options and techniques that are available. The crimps themselves for MIL/AV quality joins are fairly inexpensive. Yes, the tool itself is a reasonable expense, but the quality of the joins are precisely that, quality.

 

The point with solder is, yes when properly executed it is a very good conductive join. HOWEVER solder IS brittle and is liable to fracturing. A quality crimp is stronger that the wire that is being connected. That’s why every single pin in every single plug in your factory loom is crimped onto the wire, NOT soldered on.

 

I’ve never had you down as the “that’ll do” British Leyland approach kinda guy Simon?

These are very good connectors. You slip it over one wire then twist the conductors together along the length then slip the connector back across the joint aligning that ring of solder across the bare conductors. Then warm it with a heat gun and the solder ring melts to make the connection and the sleeve shrinks and the 2 red rings make a perfect seal around the insulation of the cable.

 

Never seen those before. Interesting

I’ve never had you down as the “that’ll do” British Leyland approach kinda guy Simon?

 

I'm not, that's why I don't use cheap crimps. :lol:

 

TBH, I only have a few solder joints on my car. I have replaced connectors or entire bits of loom.

It only took two pages but at least we got there.

It only took two pages but at least we got there.

 

Are we done?

Negative.

Are we done?

 

I was done on the 9th of February. :lol: Simon, Christ knows... Richie, well that’s a longer path.

I was done on the 9th of February.

 

That's nice. :lol:

Just to get back on track:innocent:

 

 

 

Which Halfords car cover size would be best for a SWB Z??

You will want the large I expect. The medium isn’t wide enough.

If you want to put the money into a great cover then I wouldn't recommend the Halfords one. I found it fine for the first year or two, but it's letting a lot of condensation in now.

If you want to put the money into a great cover then I wouldn't recommend the Halfords one. I found it fine for the first year or two, but it's letting a lot of condensation in now.

 

Thanks Jay, hopefully in a year or two I’ll be in a new house with a insulated garage:thumbup1:

Have you any recommendations to tide me over for the time being?

Thanks Jay, hopefully in a year or two I’ll be in a new house with a insulated garage:thumbup1:

Have you any recommendations to tide me over for the time being?

 

Well, the Halfords one is cheap and definitely better than nothing!

I found the same Jay. However It’s got a warranty on it, I marched in with it on a Saturday when they were busy with the original packaging and moaned a lot. They didn’t ask too much about when I purchased it. Think they wanted me out the way. :lol: I got a new one. ;)

Bonnet was pretty much soaked when I unveiled the car today. The rest of the car was almonst dry though.