So, I'll probably regret this but what the hey!!

Just home from a 600 km round trip to go fetch this:innocent::whistling:

 

 

 

1989 Factory manual TT SWB!!:yes:

 

It's missing a few bits and has some rust, also has a "Noddy and Big Ears" themed engine bay:scared::thumbdown:

 

 

Was running before it had its gearbox, diff, drive shafts, brakes and exhaust stripped off it:whistling:

Needs a bonnet, new trims, and some paint and bodywork, but it'll be a work in progress.

Have to wait and see how I get on, figured I have a fair few spare bits from the other car lying around, so might as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb!! :thumbup1:probably struggle with it but at least it'll keep me occupied for a bit:thumbup:

I hate those scotch locks, traced many electrical faults back to those. I never use them. Solder and heat shrink or heat shrink butt connectors with resin inside are very good inside and out.

 

I always solder with heat shrink. A: It looks neat and B:It's the correct thing to do. :)

 

I've seen many Z32s with bullet connectors and even chocolate blocks used on external wiring.

A crimped joint is actually superior to a soldered joint btw.

A crimped joint is actually superior to a soldered joint btw.

I would say that depends on the particular job in hand taking into account things like...

 

Cable size and type

Current

Environment etc

 

Scotch locks arent crimp type which is why they are complete tat.

Your testing my memory now. I believe it’s to do with the acid content of the flux but more importantly in applications like automotive and aeronautical it’s preferable because a crimped joint is far less likely to suffer from vibration fatigue. Solder is tidy and convenient but not necessarily best. Tbh as long as the joint is properly insulated, I doubt your going to notice a difference in most automotive applications.

 

And yes, those scotch clip things are pants. They work, ok, but not great. Some old control panels I work on have a similar connection and they are bloody annoying.

A crimped joint is actually superior to a soldered joint btw.

 

But a crimped joint has no water resistance so no good for any external wiring - they're unsightly too

But a crimped joint has no water resistance so no good for any external wiring - they're unsightly too

 

Neither does a soldered joint Si... it’s the heatshrink you apply afterwards that does that.

Neither does a soldered joint Si... it’s the heatshrink you apply afterwards that does that.

 

Exactly which was why I mentioned heatshrink further up. ;)

Exactly which was why I mentioned heatshrink further up. ;)

 

:glare:

Stripped out a good bit of the car, pieces were either pulled apart by previous owners or had mismatched screws / fittings. :thumbdown: Pulled the carpets as Joel had mentioned it to me last year to check the floor pan. Drivers side seems solid with rust along the sill line on the passenger side:scared:

 

 

 

Another problem is the custom wheel centre’s hit the top of the lug nuts, so it’s back to the shop to have more metal skimmed off:blush:

 

Edited February 9, 20187 yr by Richie K

Looks like your going to have your hands full with that one buddy.

 

One thing I would advise though, the seats that had moss on them, I’d strip the covers off them. The moss spores will have pentrated into the foam of the seat and will eventually grow back.

Looks like your going to have your hands full with that one buddy.

 

One thing I would advise though, the seats that had moss on them, I’d strip the covers off them. The moss spores will have pentrated into the foam of the seat and will eventually grow back.

 

Cheers Nick, but they won't be going back into it :biggrin: I got onto the chap who was supposed to be retrimming my Koenig and Sparco seats in back 2013-'14 (long before I knew Mondo), Been onto him for the last 4 years to either do the job he was paid for or give the seats and money back. He's away driving Internationally the last 3 years, we've arranged to meet up and sort it all out Feb 25th. I'll either have a retrimmed set of Koenigs and my original Sparco Torino's or the seats unfinished with cash back. Either set would look well in the 2 seater:thumbup:

So, Opened the drivers door yesterday evening and (as the carpet is lifted) I see a puddle of water in the floor pan, I'm assuming I'm going to need door and Targa seals??:innocent:

So, Opened the drivers door yesterday evening and (as the carpet is lifted) I see a puddle of water in the floor pan, I'm assuming I'm going to need door and Targa seals??:innocent:

 

Check your targa drain tubes 1st down the a pillars and behind the fuse boxes in the kick panels to make sure they are all still connected and ok

Check your targa drain tubes 1st down the a pillars and behind the fuse boxes in the kick panels to make sure they are all still connected and ok

 

Don't think it's the drains Ian, the puddle was back where the seat would normally be, forgot to photo it yesterday before I soaked it up. Should be able to get one tonight when I'm home from work. I'll have a search on here to see if there's a seal conditioning thread and have a go at that for the weekend:thumbup1:

If you get replacement seals remember its the swb ones you need mate.

If you get replacement seals remember its the swb ones you need mate.

 

Cheers Gaz, already looked on CZP:scared: Think I'm going to try some Gummi Pflege first:whistling:

Plan A for the leaky roof and door seals :innocent:

 

Plan A for the leaky roof and door seals :innocent:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]110801[/ATTACH]

 

Jesus how many cars you plannkng to treat ? Theres enough there to do all the cars on the forum

Jesus how many cars you plannkng to treat ? Theres enough there to do all the cars on the forum

 

 

Better safe than sorry dude!! :tt2:

It was on special matey, 2x100ml bottles for €7.50, so I said I’d buy 2 sets in case I need to soak the seals in it :laugh:

 

Postage was the same.

Plan A for the leaky roof and door seals :innocent:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]110801[/ATTACH]

 

I've been using that stuff for a while. Seems good - keeps the rubbers moist (ehm) for ages, so should keep them in good condition.

 

I don't think it will help if you've already got leaks though...

Going to give it a try anyway, this is what I just found

 

 

 

I’ve already priced up the seals:scared:, said I’d try the cheap option first:whistling:

Edited February 17, 20187 yr by Richie K

Just double check the glass fitment Richie if you're getting water ingress. There are two bump stops for the glass, you could try adjusting those if the window is sitting too low against the rubbers.

Just double check the glass fitment Richie if you're getting water ingress. There are two bump stops for the glass, you could try adjusting those if the window is sitting too low against the rubbers.

 

Thanks Si, I’d read a few old threads which mentioned adjusting the door glass :thumbup1:

But a crimped joint has no water resistance so no good for any external wiring - they're unsightly too

 

Neither does a soldered joint Si... it’s the heatshrink you apply afterwards that does that.

 

Exactly which was why I mentioned heatshrink further up. ;)

 

:glare:

 

As a side note, soldering in-line wiring is not an approved method of wiring on any regulated aircraft. Environmental splices (crimp terminals) up to a certain number per length of wire or a complete new wire. Solder is for circuit boards.

As a side note, soldering in-line wiring is not an approved method of wiring on any regulated aircraft. Environmental splices (crimp terminals) up to a certain number per length of wire or a complete new wire. Solder is for circuit boards.

 

Don’t start him up again Joel.