The rebuild has finally started today and so far in a few hours I've managed to completely strip the interior.

 

 

 

Next job on my list is to get both the bumpers, tailgate and bonnet off.

 

After that i'll work on the body panels and stripping down the engine.

1 hour ago, TheRealNips said:

Do you have to get the turbos balanced when you rebuild them?

I didnt this time as they were done not that long ago and i ensured everything was put back together the way it was.

This rebuild was more so to clean everything and ensure no nasty metal particles were inside.

27 minutes ago, JaiKai said:

I didnt this time as they were done not that long ago and i ensured everything was put back together the way it was.

This rebuild was more so to clean everything and ensure no nasty metal particles were inside.

Hrm. You may wish to think carefully on that one. Whilst the individual parts should be balanced in themselves, it’s the way they work together. If you managed to get a slight imbalance 180’ out on both components then at 100krpm that could be significant. I’d consult an expert, I don’t know how it works with these mail order companies that balance the wheels only without the whole CHRA.

30 minutes ago, JaiKai said:

I didnt this time as they were done not that long ago and i ensured everything was put back together the way it was.

This rebuild was more so to clean everything and ensure no nasty metal particles were inside.

Good to know, I wasnt sure if you have to balance everytime you take them apart

Those turbos should be balanced if they have had the compresser wheel removed..dont rely on marking the shaft,wheel and nut before you dismantle as it never works 100%...Also did you use genuine Mellet rebuild kit or generic from blagbay?...

 

 

 

 

 

They were rebuilt by midland turbos and not me. 

 

I simply dismantled them to clean the oil ways and reassemble afterwards. 

Block now stripped again and de-greased.

 

Also stripped off all that nasty silver paint which was like a layer cake.

Cant believe how long this took me and i used a combination of gunk de-greaser, wd40 and brake cleaner.

Extra luck that the de-greaser was strong enough to strip paint too so all the silver that was only the block came off. 

When everything was dry again i used high temperature paint to coat the sides of the block and top to make it look new.

 

 

 

Next job was to strip the oil pan as it was also caked in silver paint.

Gone is the silver paint to reveal a few rust spots on the sump.

Need to get a wire brush to this now then give it a coat of black.

Send it to the powdercoaters. ?

I too would also think about those turbos. Even if you have to wait because cash is tight, I would leave them to the professionals to get them rebuilt and balanced. History as taught us that trying to do things on the cheap has ended in tears. I'd hate for you to go through yet another rebuild because a turbo went AWOL.

 

Do check those injectors too before wasting money and time sending them off as per Jimmer's recommendation. If they're redrills (they have a high probability of being as genuine new 740cc NISMO injectors have a very low failure rate), chuck them before wasting time getting them flow checked. Get the magnifying glass out and take some photos of the injector tips.

Edited May 10, 20205 yr by Funkysi

2 hours ago, Funkysi said:

Send it to the powdercoaters. ?

I was thinking about that, get it shot blasted too as there is a fair amount of surface rust on the bottom.

I'll send the turbos down to Midland again to be sure.

1 hour ago, JaiKai said:

I'll send the turbos down to Midland again to be sure.

Good call Lee - better safe than sorry mate!

Nothing new done today but i bit of news from Midland Turbos who now have my turbos.

They are rebuilding them again at a cost of £185 per turbo with new bearings and then a re balancing.

Also just dropped a £1K order into conceptz to start my engine build off in a few weeks.

So just out in the garage with my new honing tool and just as i go to do this cylinder i notice these huge scores.

I'm guessing i either need to get a new block or get these professionally done larger then get pistons to match.

 

Whats everyone thoughts ?

 

The grooves that are clearly visible can be felt with my nail as i rub them across the surface.

 

 

 

What size were the last pistons you were using Lee ?

Just standard 

You are going to be advised then to go to 87.5mm, not cheap this Z ownership is it.

56 minutes ago, phutumsch said:

You are going to be advised then to go to 87.5mm, not cheap this Z ownership is it.

That or a replacement block with clean bores if he’s already got Forged Pistons in stock size. Might be the cheaper and faster way. 

2 hours ago, Stephen said:

That or a replacement block with clean bores if he’s already got Forged Pistons in stock size. Might be the cheaper and faster way. 

He's to find a later block and clean, good luck with that one. Needs to get his own to a shop and move up a size imo.

10 hours ago, phutumsch said:

He's to find a later block and clean, good luck with that one. Needs to get his own to a shop and move up a size imo.

So late blocks and early blocks are different? That’s a new one on me. I know the long block is but the short block I assumed was the same... 

3 hours ago, Stephen said:

So late blocks and early blocks are different? That’s a new one on me. I know the long block is but the short block I assumed was the same... 

I was thinking complete engine for some reason, personally I don't know of any differences, the decision is yours Lee. 

Found a local engine place i can take it to get the block properly checked.

I'll see if i can get a price for a complete clean, cylinder bore and paint job.

2 hours ago, JaiKai said:

Found a local engine place i can take it to get the block properly checked.

I'll see if i can get a price for a complete clean, cylinder bore and paint job.

I can’t remember so best check with someone who does know but I think the Forged pistons sit a little sloppier in the block with bigger ring gaps. 
You may find the shop can resurface the bores to take out that score, obviously this depends on the depth of the scratch and you will just have a slightly larger ring to accommodate. You might be within tolerance, if your lucky. This would also depend on what happened to the bores last time.