Well, as many may know, I have recently discovered that my lower radiator cross member has finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm.

Hopefully, this is day one of my journey to successfully repairing it with a suitable replacement.

Wish me luck, I think I will need it.

 

So, today I started the dismantling of the front end, and within a couple of hours I had removed the front bumper etc'

This was done on the driveway, and I hope to complete the rest of the work in the garage, hopefully.

 

I have reached the point where I am unfamiliar with most of the critical items that now stand in my way, and would seriously appreciate some advice as to how I should proceed.

 

First question/concern that springs to mind is... Can I continue successfully with the car being in the garage?

The last thing I want to do is get half way through the strip down only to find that I do not have the correct access.

The car is drivable at the moment, but once I start taking various parts off she will become immobile.

 

Your help and advise would be very much appreciated.

 

Please see photo's attached...

Edited May 29, 20169 yr by redwine300

I would just like to understand if there is any load being held under compression from the suspension as I am getting close to removing the fixing bolts.

 

Do you mean the tension rod bracket fixing bolts? Are your front wheels off and the suspension fully relaxed? If so, you can safely

undo the bolts. I would remove the tension rods from the brackets and lower suspension arms first and get them out of the way

and then undo the brackets.

Edited June 3, 20169 yr by AndrewG

> I would just like to understand if there is any load being held under compression from the suspension as I am getting close to removing the fixing bolts.

 

the only thing that's slightly under compression is the swaybar, but nothing serious

 

> I would remove the tension rods from the brackets and lower suspension arms first and get them out of the way and then undo the brackets.

 

I find it's actually easier to remove the tensionrods complete with brackets as there's no need to remove the rods from the brackets, unless you need/want to replace them.

Do you mean the tension rod bracket fixing bolts? Are your front wheels off and the suspension fully relaxed? If so, you can safely

undo the bolts. I would remove the tension rods from the brackets and lower suspension arms first and get them out of the way

and then undo the brackets.

 

Correct Andrew.

 

As for my front wheels, they are still on.

However, they are barely in contact with the ramps. they're there just for safety to be honest.

Hopefully now knowing this, I will aim to have everything clear this weekend ready for cleaning and measuring.

 

Thank you.

> I would just like to understand if there is any load being held under compression from the suspension as I am getting close to removing the fixing bolts.

 

the only thing that's slightly under compression is the swaybar, but nothing serious

 

> I would remove the tension rods from the brackets and lower suspension arms first and get them out of the way and then undo the brackets.

 

I find it's actually easier to remove the tension rods complete with brackets as there's no need to remove the rods from the brackets, unless you need/want to replace them.

 

Once again Lymon, thank you for your valued input.

I was thinking about dropping the tension rods only so as to use the brackets as a form of support, and also a reference position for aligning the replacement crossmember.

Or would that influence location in a negative way? just trying to plan ahead so as to be sure in my mind when it comes the big moment of welding the new piece in.

Yet again, another painfully frustrating 3 hours of joy, not!

 

Still, managed to get very close to completely clearing the way ready for removal.

Also managed to get a better view of the corrosion. (bl==dy British weather)

Have you got your new crossmember yet?

Have you got your new crossmember yet?

 

Not yet mate.

To be honest, I am torn between a good salvage part or a new one.

Trouble is, a new one is a tad expensive.

Have you priced up a new one including shipping yet?

Have you priced up a new one including shipping yet?

 

Hi Joely P,

 

Yes, I have been in contact with Coz at Concept Z in the US.

 

Total price for part and shipping comes in at $536.

Tempted to be honest.

 

Not sure about any costs once cleared customs though.

Hi Joely P,

 

Yes, I have been in contact with Coz at Concept Z in the US.

 

Total price for part and shipping comes in at $536.

Tempted to be honest.

 

Not sure about any costs once cleared customs though.

 

Vat at 20% on the $536 for sure.

Plus "handling fee" of between £10 to £15

Vat at 20% on the $536 for sure.

Plus "handling fee" of between £10 to £15

 

Good point Pete!

Good job it's my Birthday and Father's day this month.

I shall have to pass the hat round.

Good point Pete!

Good job it's my Birthday and Father's day this month.

I shall have to pass the hat round.

Dont bother passing it my way!!:lol:

 

It might be worth asking your local Nissan dealer for a price?? Just fire the part number at them..

It wouldn't be much of a job for a decent metal/fab specialist to make a piece to fit in place of stock crossmember from some rectangular box section, few measurements and some know how, weld on some rad supports and Roberts ya mothers brother :thumbup1:

 

Work out the drop of the support measured from bottom edge of chassis rails to top of crossmember and note it down, measure locations of rad support lugs etc, once the old metal work is removed you could make 2 nice gussets welded to the inside of the chassis rails as per the original piece, then drop down with some rectangular box and across to the other side and repeat.

 

With some patience you could make a lovely PERMANENT STRONG repair here, cavity wax inside and paint outside. This makes me want to go get the chop saw and welder out.......:hammer:

Edited June 5, 20169 yr by Chrisbasildon

It wouldn't be much of a job for a decent metal/fab specialist to make a piece to fit in place of stock crossmember from some rectangular box section, few measurements and some know how, weld on some rad supports and Roberts ya mothers brother :thumbup1:

 

Work out the drop of the support measured from bottom edge of chassis rails to top of crossmember and note it down, measure locations of rad support lugs etc, once the old metal work is removed you could make 2 nice gussets welded to the inside of the chassis rails as per the original piece, then drop down with some rectangular box and across to the other side and repeat.

 

With some patience you could make a lovely PERMANENT STRONG repair here, cavity wax inside and paint outside. This makes me want to go get the chop saw and welder out.......:hammer:

 

I get what you are saying mate, and I agree to some extent.

Only problem is me, I'm a bit of a purist at heart, I need to put in a genuine replacement I'm afraid.

 

Started to clean away the dirt,rust and old paint this afternoon so as to locate all the pesky spot welds.

It's going to be a long job me thinks.

Looks like you could do with going even further. Be a shame to buy a brand new crossmember them leave surface rust on the chassis rail and inner wing. Shouldn't take too long to drill out the spot welds and pry it out. Good luck, I don't envy you.

Then go for a new replacement part mate, don't even consider a second hand part it's not worth the trouble, let the drilling commence (after a beer of course) :pint:

Looks like you could do with going even further. Be a shame to buy a brand new crossmember them leave surface rust on the chassis rail and inner wing. Shouldn't take too long to drill out the spot welds and pry it out. Good luck, I don't envy you.

 

Agreed Steven, I will look at treating affected surrounding areas once I have the crossmember firmly in place.

As you say, it would be shame not to.

Then go for a new replacement part mate, don't even consider a second hand part it's not worth the trouble, let the drilling commence (after a beer of course) :pint:

 

You're right, I will bite the bullet and go for new.

As for a beer, I've gone through 3 cases of Stella to get me this far. :lol:

Best stay tea total when it comes to the welding mind. :sweatdrop:

It wouldn't be much of a job for a decent metal/fab specialist to make a piece to fit in place of stock crossmember from some rectangular box section, few measurements and some know how, weld on some rad supports and Roberts ya mothers brother :thumbup1:

 

Work out the drop of the support measured from bottom edge of chassis rails to top of crossmember and note it down, measure locations of rad support lugs etc, once the old metal work is removed you could make 2 nice gussets welded to the inside of the chassis rails as per the original piece, then drop down with some rectangular box and across to the other side and repeat.

 

With some patience you could make a lovely PERMANENT STRONG repair here, cavity wax inside and paint outside. This makes me want to go get the chop saw and welder out.......:hammer:

 

I must admit I'd be going this way myself. Price new is crazy, and I'd take a lump of new metal any day. I know it's not original, you can't tell though, it's not like it's visible. A proper soild job well executed beats sticking some old thing in there. Probably be easier to weld in as well as you could spec a thicker material (it's gonna be let's face it) then simply blast it in. Your not going to burn through 2mm box section by accident. Puddle the section in from the inner wing, least you know it will be strong as **** as well.

Oh I'm getting itchy trigger finger thinking about it. :lol:

I must admit I'd be going this way myself. Price new is crazy, and I'd take a lump of new metal any day. I know it's not original, you can't tell though, it's not like it's visible. A proper soild job well executed beats sticking some old thing in there. Probably be easier to weld in as well as you could spec a thicker material (it's gonna be let's face it) then simply blast it in. Your not going to burn through 2mm box section by accident. Puddle the section in from the inner wing, least you know it will be strong as **** as well.

Personally that's what I would do too, a thick steel tube section across, strong as nuts, and could actually be used as a proper jack point, but I also understand him wanting to do it with OEM parts, so it's his call.

Not tube Ali, box section. An ogblong or whatever they call it these days.

Not tube Ali, box section. An ogblong or whatever they call it these days.

Yeah, square tube, sorry didn't specify.

Not sure if creating the lower support yourself is a very good idea...

Don't forget it has 2 very important pieces connected to it, that also need to be perfectly aligned/positioned: the tension rod brackets

 

I don't think you'd want to be driving a car that has these brackets connected in a "bob the builder" way to a homemade support, with the risk of the brackets breaking/falling off.

 

:wheelchair:

Well, after a couple of more hours scraping and wire brushing I have called it a day for now.

Pretty happy with my progress so far.