trebor

No, I expected it to come balanced, it does appear to have some balance weights tackked on.

Thanks, Just thought they look quite business like. Do you live in Manchester? I am in Altrincham.

Has anyone fitted a Z1 motorsports one piece prop shaft ? I have some extra vibes after fitting mine. I have got the run out down to 0.25 mm (tolerance for a standard propshaft = 0.6mm) and packed it full of grease but I get mild vibes at 40- 45 mph and moderate to strong vibes at 100mph+. Once the original was removed it left a cupped flange on the differential in which the new propshaft flange had to sit. This was quite a precision fit and also I have had to trim the standard washers that sit under the flange securing bolts so that they will slide into the cupped flange. Is this the correct configuration?? Finally has anyone ever found that they have induced vibration at the rear of the car by jacking incorrectly? For instance I have jacked under the diff. Any advice much appreciated.

Clarkey, Hope you dont mind me asking. What are those wheels on your car?

Given that the rusty colour is at your tail pipe I would say that it is through rust but back to my motorcycling days optimum fuel burn is indicated by a brown powdery residue on the spark plug; black is too rich and white is too lean. If you want to be sure your car is burning fuel efficiently you could do a plug chop as we did on the bikes however YOUR CAR HAS A STEERING LOCK so you may or may not be able to use this method as YOU MAY CRASH. As follows :- Warm the engine then head out to a quiet piece of road. In lets say second or third gear drive along the road at a steady 3/4 throttle for as long as you have road then the engine must be cut promptly. THIS IS WHERE YOU WILL CRASH IF YOUR STEERING LOCK COMES ON. On a motorbike you have the luxury of a kill switch, on a car if you only have the ignition switch you run the risk of engaging the steering lock. Now before the engine is run again, remove your plugs and see what colour the residue is. Anyway for your purposes a rusty brown colour is good news.

Have you thought of asking Bill Oddie? Im sure he or any other leading ornithologist could at least settle Feather it is a goose or an owl noise. Your obviously tawn between the twit too two. (Sorry its been a hard day).

I was quoted for Shipping for a clutch from the states $70 / £40 however this was to travel with another consignment so I am not sure if this made the clutch shipping cheaper than it would for the clutch alone. clutch cost between 200 and 250 quid for RPS. Couldnt say what rates youd get charged for import tax and vat. Added to that how long would it take for your parts to arrive? However US price for parts alone certainly leaves plenty of room for importing your bits and them still arriving having cost you less than buying from uk, whether this turns out to be the case or not I will have a better idea once my prop shaft arrives.

This website is fantastic.

Ah yes you do, off to your website.

Do you do clutches Smithy and if so what are your prices? I am running stock power but want something robust.

Standard power but I suppose it could have had a patent clutch fitted, which is why I am dubious about these :- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-Z32-300ZX-TURBO-1-90-12-94-CLUTCH-KIT_W0QQitemZ4599285002QQcategoryZ10402QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem What do you think?

I know this is open ended dependant upon use/abuse but what is an average stock clutch life? I ask as mine was changed about 27k miles ago and was riding today when booting it in second. Anyone aware of anything other than wear that causes this on a zed in particular?

Actually I re-checked and on High beam its squares only.

Can only tell you how my 94 uk spec operates. side lights = small round. low beam = small round only brighter. High beam = squares + small rounds. Rgds Rob

Congrats Kev

My driveshaft bearings sound like they are approaching the end of their days. Before they reduce themselves to their component parts I would like to replace them. I have promised myself that as parts wear out I will replace stock with performance parts and have been looking at some one piece drive shafts from http://www.z1motorsports.com/index.php?cPath=1_6_11 Before I order I thought Id ask to see if they are available in the uk as I havent been able to find them, anyone ? They also do a transmision mount upgrade by Nismo.

My car has a small connection fitted by the drivers left leg on the centre console. I have seen another z fitted with a turbo timer at this position, is this the normal place to fit it and how can I tell which manufacturer's turbo timer the connector is for (if it is) ?

I viewed the black 300z on merseyside. If you would like you could e-mail me and I will tell you all I can remember of the car. I came very close to buying it and only didnt because Steves 94 uk was still up for grabs for only a bit more money; thats not to say this one isnt worth 3600 though.

I think Id be looking for water ingress or loose metallic particles somewhere in your switch gear.

I could only find an ancient thread regarding this, does anyone have a 300zx maint manual on disc that can be purchased?

There was another question I meant to ask. After idling for approx 5mins the engine revs momentarily died and then cut back in, a small amount of water spat from both exhausts. No more hiccups or water followed. It hadnt run for a little while, Im thinking condensation and perhaps a temporary small airlock in the fuel system but thought I would run it past everyone here in case it rings bells.

What is the performance difference between an N/A and a TT? I believe its about 50bhp but what does it equate to in 0-60 times?

Thanks, The play. Jack the rear end and grab the wheel as if checking for bearing wear. This one has a couple of thou movement across the horizontal axis. I am not overly worried and have put it down to play in the HICAS mechanism but I thought it wise to ask.

The standard boost guage on this model is + or - 7 psi, the buying guide uses a 14 + or - guage, is this usual? Does the needle position translate accross i.e so long as its low down at idle and moves thru its range with power on. Where the throttle cable ? is visible under the bonnet, mid engine there is a one pulley without a cable right next to it. Is this normal? How much rear wheel side to side play should be expected from the rear steer? The engine seems fluffy at low rpm like the timing at that end of the rev range is slightly out. Does any one have experience of this? Can it be adjusted? Bad plugs maybe? I know could be one of many things but I guess what I realy need to know is if its a symptom of something major. How much to have a timing belt replaced? Can a fairly handy spanner twister do it themselves? Super Megaphone exhaust, any comments? note: Oil guage is in Kg/cm2 guide is psi. Any information much appreciated. Rob

Not there yet, very impressed with the speed of your response. I will not come away with it today, if I come back and ask my questions on this thread perhaps you would help as I dont have anyone to go with me. The 1992 for sale, I cant use the link, is it in the forsale section here?