rodders25

Is that a whole rack change or just some bits? It was moving in and out by the black rubber gaitor on the rack end, not the ball joint on the other end of the arm.

Well finally got my heater matrix done today. Moved onto the rear wheel wobble. Pass side is fine, solid. Drivers side, hold the wheel on both sides and it rocks. Looked underneathe and its the arm that goes into the rack, by the rubber gaitor. Also, held it top and bottom and that rocks too. Looks like the whole hub rocks. Def a problem and dont think it will pass a MOT. Any ideas? I didnt want to take the rear rack off, running low on money. If one sides good and the others bad, is it a chance somethings loose?

Thats where I put mine, but dont know size off the top of my head.

I got one of those, its well cool!!!

Theres three actually. I have the one from the cam belt tensioner sat in my garage. 200 miles on it. £20 posted. Normally around £40+ new.

I seem to remember Kirbz having titanium ones in his rebuilt engine.

Wooohoooooo

They can, I was going to get it done. Then my car died. lol

They are normall pretty well stuck on there. I used a wedge on mine and it came off. Other people cut them off with dremels.

Yup, forgot about those, drivers side its at the back, pass side its at the front. 10mm head

I've had that done. he said and I quote "I knocked yesterday and you werent in, so I thought you wouldnt be in today so I never bothered knocking" I was like, WTF do you think a door bell is for!?!?!?!?!?!?!??!

8 bolts and it comes off. Its on two dowels as well. Give it a little tap with a drift one end, probably just stuck on the gaskets, mine was.

filter and exhuast, up the boost, chip.

Im spend spend spending

But its worth the expense!! Hope the sale goes well and you get it all sorted soon.

Theres loads of pipe work that can be bypassed on the plenum. Saves lots of potential leaks in the future but its a bit of work to do. Theres write ups on here on how to do it.

Left rear, right rear, left front, right front, ABS actuator front, ABS actuator rear

I was like this a couple of weeks ago when a head bolt stripped. I was ready to break it. Mate, my first Zed blew a head gasket, payed £1250+vat to have it fixed and told it was fine when they did compression test etc... only to find a few weeks later that no.6 cylinder was shot. Turbos where spose to be ok, according to a specialist garage, no they werent. Snapped down pipe bolts on exhuast, loadsa wholes in exhaust. I'de spent 3k on the car, £1250 for the h/g and a few thousand on upgrades. Sold for 1K. Bought what I thought was a descent Z for £5500. Spent about 1k on that in the first week on upgrades. Then an awful screal. Spent £300 on cam belt and idlers, didnt sort it. Eventually changed the oil pump (pain in the arse) that sorted it. Thought I had a sorted car now. Then pop, coolant everywhere on the back of the Isle of Wight. Engine out now, spent a few grand on it since engines been out. Just throwing money at it, but I come on here and moan, then people always persuade me to keep her!!!! Oh and once its all back together, then theres the MOT. And I had a wheel stud strip a while ago doing it up........I just get endless problems. Probably more I have forgot about.

Self almagamating tape will prob be your best bet. Then something stronger over the top. But it will still leak straight away......... If its only for a couple of days, I wouldnt drive it.

Bad idea to drive it then. Cycle to the gym, a good warm up!!

I had trouble with them a while ago. Got a £50 good will gesture out of them. But they were so useless and it took ages to sort!!!!!!!!!

I got mine from ebuyer, but overclockers are very good too. Spent a fair bit with them before, never had any probs.

If you run without water, your just gonna overheat, blow your head gaskets and warp the heads. £££££££££££££ You could keep topping it up all the time, but really you want to fix it.

I never removed the tensioner first time I did one. That gauge I think it a push/pull gauge. So you can pull then tensioner onto the belt with a known force, then the tensioner does the rest. I guessed mine and pushed by hand.

27mm socket is correct.