silverbullet

the oil lines can either be removed directly from the sump and oil tree or from the hard pipes on the left inner bay liner, i presume you mean the engine oil cooler and not a gearbox cooler. the only IC intake pipes that need removing completely are the four "hard pipes", the two large diameter plastic pipes (one each side lower down) just need disconecting from the sides of the radiator, they are a pain in the arse but do bend quite nicely to allow them to pop out.

the only things that you "need" that sit behind the engine are matrix water hoses, turbo water feeds, det sensor (if keeping, of course) and VVT wires. every thing else can be junked, which is only the EGR valve and connecting hoses, so the rear should look a bit like this... bearing in mind, ive done a throttle body bypass, which i would recomend if you're pulling your engine

lol that was when i fitted, you should see it now!! :lol:

yeah, tie it up with a couple of cable ties to one of the IC hard pipes just so theres no strain on the fluid lines. glad you got sorted :)

gutted for you buddy, i had a close call the other day, luckly they couldnt get in, still spurd me on to get contents insurance and a garage alarm. have a look at this site, well worth getting one ;) http://www.c-p-p.co.uk/category/asp/CtgID/1031/af/page.htm

i always take the pump off as its easyer than draining the fluid out and getting it every where. to get it off, turn the crank (27mm socket) until you can see a 14mm bolt through the PAS pulley at roughly one o'clock. slacken this bolt off. underneath the pump there will be a 12mm nut half way along the long elongated hole in the bracket, slacken the nut off, this will enable you to undo the 12mm long bolt which allows the pump to swivel. the long bolt head will be to the left of the underside of the pump. undo this bolt so the pump can swivel enough to allow the belt to come off, i usually undo the bolt so it is nearly all the way out then squeeze the belt together causing the pump to swivel towards the block. once the belt is off, undo the 2 12mm bolts that sit vertically roughly an inch apart from each other, then undo and take off the 12mm nut that is on the slider, the whole bracket will then come off, leaving the pump hanging there on its own. going back to the 14mm bolt behind the pulley, remove this completely and jiggle or pry the pump free...

glad you got it sorted buddy :)

noooo, i've got Mike Smith logs on mine. would love a set of pipes like those though. would take alot of rework for the oil tree, PAS pump and alternator but, if i had the time and money, would be worth the challange :)

alas, i can not take any credit for the art work. i stole the pics from AMZ performance, they are Escort racing manifolds... http://www.amzperformance.com/product_info.php?cPath=18&products_id=943

thanks guys :D :dance::dance::dance:

i thought it was the real deal?? oh well, i stand corrected:bow:

no worries, anything to help out a fellow zeder :)

yes, theres a bloke called funkyboogalooo (no kidding!!) on that will make you anything from spoilers to bonnets, door handles to centre consels etc. all with carbon fibre ;)

:lol::lol::lol:

thats really clever :D

bugger!!! i know all about those bloody holes! how did you find the brakes?

this is something i deffinatly have to get done. were the weights out alot to start with James?

yep, the AMS logs are exactly the same as mike smith logs but, i believe are cheaper. can handle up to 600bhp as well ;)

mmmmmmm tubular......

bloody good point that Jimmer:yes:

there are benifits in tubular SS manifolds but, unless you are going for very heavy mods, you may as well stick with the log type. there are some good makes out there that do excellent log type manifolds. what turbos are you fitting? if they are just recon'd stock tubs then the OEM manifolds will be fine. saying that, it's all down to your own personal prefurance though. divorced elbows have two pipes that come from the turbo, one for the turbine vein and the other for the waste gate, these then join further down. they aid in exhaust flow, stopping turbulance when the waste gate is being used. they are a good mod and i recomend them if you're going to have an after market exhaust system. HTH

dont forget another source of oil leaks that could be miss read as a sump/rear main leak is the VVT solenoids, again, an easy fix when resealing the rockers :)

no worries :)

the gearbox earth strap can be got at from under neath, when looking at the back of the engine, the strap should be on a bolt that goes through the bell housing in roughly the 10 o'clock position. you will need a 14mm socket on an extention, it's a bit tricky but easy enough to do...

cheers Dan, better than a pair of carrots :lol: yeah, just loop the tree feed back into the sump until (hopefully) someone comes along with a solution.