silverbullet

get yourself a sandwich plate with AN -10 fittings that runs to the cooler

photo for ya ;) ................

jimmy, take it from the stock check valve blank. there is a screw in adaptor that the stock cooler pipe connects to, which you can take off and blank. on the very end (right side) is a blank, use this to cap the stock cooler feed. when you unscrew the blank on the end, there will be a check valve and spring inside, remove all this and connect the accusump feed to the now empty "tube". the bore will be/should be large enough, if not, fitting an adaptor to the tree will be easy enough to do. will 3 quarts be enough? i would have gone for a 4 or 6 quart system

they use our brakes as an upgrade like we use skyline brakes as our upgrade. you should be able to get at least 100 for the fronts and 50 for the rears, maybe even a little more ;)

depends, is your EGR disconnected? if it is then, no. it's ok to leave disconnected

no worries Paul. was good to meet you, pop on over when ever you like :)

no probs Tony, glad to help :)

only got a pic of a manual box if it helps...

might well be ;)

i wish you would

i'll get me coat:huh:

http://www.phatboybrakes.com/Rotors.php 330mm disc

shout a bit louder, he might acknowledge you guys :D

why do you want drilled? the holes weaken the disc

jesus!! and that was stellaz's???

ah!! but, ive seen you block paving steve, its massive!! :D

whos trading?? one zedder to the other, just helping out. jesus, sorry. i didnt see the red tape

that is no where near 1/4 scale, i would have said it's more closer to 1/10th although, saying that. those bricks are quite small in comparison

have you tryed posting in the "for sale" section? might get more of a responce :)

no worries Daffy, i've put a post up on you for sale thread, a lot of money but, not a bad price for a brand new unit. :)

track rod ends do move by hand but, only on the ball joint. i've driven plenty of cars with bottom ball joint play and non of them have vibrated under braking, i would check your discs for warping first. if you want to change the BBJ's try this place... http://www.jdmperformance.co.uk/category.php?carNumber=38&carMake=300zx if the front feels loose, check the rack bushes, transvers link (wishbone) bushes, tension rod bushes and top arms for play

sounds to me like you've got a major virus bud. have you tryed starting up in safe mode then running a full scan?

why would you want to buy a track rod end if the transverse link ball joint is loose??? you can get the "bottom ball joints" but, they are a pain to fit. the original needs to be drilled out via it's 3 rivets then, the new ball joint can be bolted in place. might be worth finding a new complete arm for the hastle it's going to be. you only need to replace it if there is any unwanted movement i.e. not sepherical. the ball joints loosen up over time. best way to test it is, put it all back together including wheel and then check for unwanted play.

welcome and enjoy :)

what am i listen to right now?? blah blah blah, when are you going to get of that bloody computer!! or something like that, i try not to take notice of her :lol: