Joely P

Thanks All 😎

Out of hibernation and into sunshine 2024!

If the rubber is still supple and hasn’t cracked or perished during the refurb process, I’d leave them as they are.

Belated Birthday Wishes Andrew.

Sounds like a good plan but then I’m slightly biased!

Repair work is looking good Marco 👌

You can get 6.5” in the front but you’ll need a chamfered MDF ring to enable it to fit into the bracket. Andrew can probably help with the details of this. You’ll also have to consider the depth restrictions of the magnet with the glass down when choosing speakers. There are a few people with tweeters in the sail panels, a decent SQ mod and looks nice if done as well as Andrew’s. The stock, non-Bose speakers are 6-4” in the back but I honestly wouldn’t bother. It’s a controversial and well discussed topic on audio forums but the general consensus (and my own opinion) is; that the sound stage, SQ and balance is much better with a front component set only (assuming you’ll be stitching in the low frequencies with a subwoofer in the back).

Looked like great fun 🤩

Certainly well worth taking it to Jimmer and a great excuse for a long road trip! 😎

In the first instance, I think I’d bypass the MPH converter and work from there.

Is it an import with a MPH conversion? There could be an issue with the wiring to the converter or the converter board has an issue. Failing that, it could well be a dry solder on the cluster circuitry. If they all check out good then the speed sensor or wiring will be suspect. Here’s a handy Zedworld post to help you troubleshoot the issue and break the system down: https://www.300zx-owners.club/forums/topic/151833-speedo-not-working/?do=findComment&comment=1642081

Superb attention to detail as usual. 👌

Nice find. I’d definitely keep hold of the spare one.

Welcome to the club!

Can’t go wrong with a CTEK 👍

Looking good 😎

Merry Christmas Everyone 🎄

Thanks for the heads up, Andy. Hope you get this sorted! 😡

I’ve had good results with the Dinitrol kits. Preparation is key for all of these long term underbody protection products so be prepared for a fairly substantial strip down for the best results. The kits also come with cavity wax and application tools which I would strongly recommend also. There are a lot of products on the market these days for a quick spray and pray job, which require little to no prep - these are arguably better than nothing but do tend to wash away fairly quickly, look awful and will need to be reapplied regularly. Your main consideration should be when you choose to use the car. I would recommend “limiting” the amount of use in poor weather and parking it up once the salt has been laid over the winter.

Happy Birthday, Gary 🍻

Belated Birthday wishes, Tony. Hope you’re well 👍

If your car is an import, you can use a plate size dictated by the character sizes stated in the Display of Registration Marks Regulation Amendment 14A. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2001/561/regulation/14A My plate is a 3/4 size plate and fits on comfortably within this legislation. The only caveat is point (2)(e): “the vertical spacing between groups of characters must be 5 millimetres”. The regulation allows for a square plate to fit in the rear bumper recess and thus why it gives a “vertical” spacing between groups, so having a smaller, square plate is the only way to be truly legal. It doesn’t state that you can’t use horizontal spacing though and if you follow the same dimensions..! 🤷🏻‍♂️ I recall many years ago, a member of the Supra owners club appeared in court to defend the display of his plate in exactly this fashion and appealed that the square plate on the front impeded the flow of air through his front bumper and subsequently had the potential to reduce cooling ability as intended by the manufacturer. He won the case! Thats said, rather than explaining this to your tester every time by removing the regulation amendment 14A printout from your glovebox, maybe just fit an unquestionably legal plate on for the time of test?

Welcome to the club 😎