ChrisC

We need to get these vids together somehow. Thought we'd have a nice movie together by now.

As a doctor, I think you should let me have a peek on here on behalf of the forum. If they need some attention I'm sure I can help :p We could even have a whip round and pay for any work that needs doing :rofl:

Yes you are! Decided not to go for seconds :rofl:

You'd be better off going at the weekend, there's always more girls out :rofl:

Have you put the large spacer washers back in the correct place? They will fit either side of the centre bearing bracket so it's possible to fit it back out of line. Can't see your prop has gone out of balance? :confused:

Was I the first? :p :rofl: They're not very impressive though are they? :rofl:

That needs 10 bottles of T-Cut Metal Restorer :rofl: Includes a small bottle of Cyanide Girlfriend Treatment :D

My Apexi SAFC II has an option for running with BOV's that made it run better and stopped a stalling problem I had when decellerating fast up to junctions etc.

The "Gain" figure just alters how fast the boost comes in and I presume (I've got Blitz gear) that the "Set" figure is to adjust the maximum boost you get. You just need to turn that down a bit. The other settings will be for the limiter and how much cut the limiter applies when it's reached. Most boost controllers don't compensate for air temperature or air pressure/altitude so you need to tweek them all the time, especially in hot weather. When we drove across to the Nurburgring I had to adjust my controller all the way. The settings were way off the ones I needed back home to reach a bar of boost and I had to keep turning it down to avoid seriously over boosting. As I drove back I gradually noticed the settings getting closer to my original ones until I got home and the boost settings were exactly what I left with.

Are you sure it's warped disks and not the common tension rod bushes that are shot?

The windscreen defrost does use the aircon. I had the same problem as you when the sensors were disconnected under the dash. I'd had the air pipes off that feed the door vents and without the sensors connected that are in that pipe the system just blows hot air out. Take the panel off under the steering wheel and you'll see the air pipe. You might have to remove the pipe to get to the sensors but I'm not sure. Suppose this could apply to one of the other sensors in the system though so could be a lot of searching and I'm not sure how you test if it's a faulty one.

Yes it was one of the first big power modified Z's in the country, 7 or 8 years ago. It's one of the first wide arch cars I ever saw and got me hooked on the idea of owning one.

Anytime :tongue:

I might bring my big chopper down :x:

Are you coming over? :o :)

Presume you've got a standard colour Z then - eg. red, black (the COMMON colours) :rofl: If it's a metallic then you need the metallic version which is a bit milder as it's only treating the clear lacquer top coat.

LOL That's quite normal I think! Have you tested the brakes by keeping the pedal down and dropping the clutch at 6k RPM? :rofl: Test the clutch by labouring the engine in 5th gear up a steep hill. If the revs rise but the speed doesn't then it's slipping ;)

If your paint is looking faded then just polishing it won't do much apart from make it look faded but shiney LOL T-Cut is designed to take off a micro fine layer of oxidised paint and bring it back to the original colour. I don't think anyone is recommending using it every day but I used T-Cut Metallic on my silver Z when I first bought it and it changed it from a dull bronzey colour to absolutely gleaming silver and on my rather grey faded boat it brought it up glossy and black as night :) Maybe there are better products about but it's cheap and does what it says on the tin... bottle :tongue:

I've got most of those parts on my car. The Scarab front is a copy of the Greddy Gracer and a good choice ;) The Strosek / Paul Bailey wide body kit and rear bumper should cover things without needing the original quarter panel but your body shop would need to use a fair bit of filler to level it off by the look of the damage. The standard panel is cut and bent up to support the wide arch panel anyway so no problem there, it's just where it blends in to the rear of the car might need a bit of filler etc to sort it. If you blend in the side skirt to the rear panel like mine then I think you'd have it all covered. Wheels need to be something like 18"x10" rears along with a bolt on hub spacer.

Yes it's great, brings back the original colour :)

Btt

I'd fit a wide body kit like the ones on here: http://www.zcentre.co.uk You don't have to lower it to fit a wide kit... :tongue:

I think you can only enter the weight in pounds? which I've done after a getting the car on a weigh bridge. Power is in HP and speed in MPH. Power loss i've had at zero and tried various other settings but still not right. It is a Jap spec so I'll try it in KMPH and see if that makes a difference.

BTT :smash:

I'll post you mine Steve. Can anyone confirm it's a 22mm socket needed before I send the wrong one?... :rolleyes: