JimboSmythe

Yeah, they measured at the front which was fine, then checked the diff and found it was coming from the back of the prop. They showed the print outs and explained what I was looking at, 100% the prop. Was actually a really interesting day haha Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Absolutely, I would go as far as to say for a tune up / check over to get your car as smooth as it possibly can be, would be well worth the money :) Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

The car is fixed and I cannot recommend VibrationFree highly enough! Turns out it was the prop, my understanding is that most shops when they balance a prop can't spin up past 1500rpm, further they need to fit it to an adapter, all of which introduces discrepancies in the balancing process. They were able to check vibration from the front and rear of the prop independently, then counter weight the imbalance all whilst the car was in situe. All ready to start: Something a bit unnerving being 20ft in the air whilst revving the tits off your car..... Either way, onwards and upwards, the car is fixed and once again, I would highly recommend them. Thanks to all for your assistance it has been appreciated. Kind regards, James

Only just saw this Pete, cheers for the offer, I went and bought some new tools today including a longer 1/2" breaker bar which did the trick on the plugs. Differential is now empty (ish), as you could have guessed managed to remove all but one case bolt which is stuck fast, going to get an adaptor for my breaker bar to get it off then clean the innards out, refill and clean up. Will be taking the car to Vibration free when I can, but in the meantime if I try the prop/diff, might as well give it a go and you never know I might learn something! Cheers, James

Think an impact wrench and a better way of securing it to get the most purchase, as it's out of the car it is somewhat tricky to stop it from moving around. I'll take it to a local garage tomorrow and see if I can get some help!

Anyone got any suggestions for removing the fill/drain plugs? Covered in WD40, correct fitment for the plug into an extended bar, beating it with a hammer and it's just sat their laughing not moving.

Hi All, Just an update and query, I met Mondo today and acquired a diff and 2 piece prop, many thanks Si :thumbup: They are both in need of some attention and a bit of tarting up so I figured whilst they are out of the car to sand and paint them, replace any seals, bushes etc I don't expect to make a work of art or anything, but some guidance on what I should be doing and parts required would be helpful! Yet to find any guides on "refurbing a diff" without taking it to a specialist and spending hundreds! So far I just wire brushed, used WD40 and sanded down some of the casing and it comes up nice, I have sprayed WD40 on all bolts and the fill/drain plugs to loosen them up as I intend on taking a look inside and cleaning it out. So apart from making them both look nice, what do I do next and although a silly question...... How do I know how much oil to put in the diff when I put it all back together? :confused:

Well, much obliged to Pete today for trying a different set of wheels, whilst it did improve the situation it clearly isn't the root. Plan moving forward will be to change the diff, replace all the bushes and see what we get. Thanks to all for your assistance thus far. Regards, James

Hi Pete, much obliged, would you be available Saturday afternoon about 12:30ish? I think the wheels are worth checking even just to see if the vibration changes rather than is removed. I do still intend to go down to vibrationfree, the only issue being their availability, I'll need to take a day off work in the week as they don't do weekends. Cheers James

Hi, just north, J28 of M1. Cheers James

Actually something else to mention, or rather query, could the buckle in the wheels be caused by standing in the garage for too long at a time? 3 weeks without movement etc? I'm not getting to drive it much at the moment and the garage floor is just standard concrete. Cheers James

Hi Gareth, I'm hoping should have all bases covered: 1) Original 2 piece prop 2) Replacement diff 3) All new bushes and mounts (need to purchase) 4) Different wheels to test (need to source) I would imagine between those things there can't be anything else in the chain? Are there any poly bush kits you would recommend? Cheers James

Hi Russ, The wheels are multi fit and the fittings had been in the wrong holes, corrected now and it made a slight improvement. The spigot rings have all been checked and the wheel is sitting flush to the hub. The vibration only starts, or at least is noticeable at 55mph+, at 70mph you really don't want to be maintaining the speed, it's pretty unnerving! But yes, I have put an ad up in the Selling/Buying section to see if I can get another set of wheels. Cheers James

Looking for a 2nd set of wheels and tyres for test/backup, not bothered about the style of them so long as not buckled and have legal amount of tread still left. Kind regards, James

The prop was checked/balanced then refit, I don't know if it was refit exactly as it came out. I guess with a different prop, diff and replacing the subframe bushes it covers all aspects. Are there any specific bushes that are recommended?

I have got to do the same, very nice guide. Much obliged, James

Thanks to Mondo, I will have a diff and prop to try. Unfortunately the wheels are 265 on the rear and 235 fronts so I can't swap them, furthermore I don't have another set to try. Although I will be replacing the wheels at some point, I'd rather not pay £1,000 for a new set of wheels and find I still have more expensive things to fix first. I suppose the alternative would be if I can get a cheap set just to test with, don't mind spending maybe £200-£300 including tyres if anyone has any going spare they know are good? Veilside: No I haven't had the engine/gearbox checked, however it is pretty specific in it's location and yes it is only 55mph+. Although having said that, I suppose vibration can travel, are there any specific signs that would point to the engine/gearbox I should look out for? Kind regards, James

Hi All, I'm trying to solve an issue with serious vibration along the drive tunnel, into the rear of the car and felt in the base/back of the drivers seat (55mph+). The previous owner made me aware of this and he tried changing the prop to a higher spec single piece and the wheels with no success. Following observations and checks have been done: 1) Prop has been checked and balanced 2) Wheels checked and balanced (slight buckle in both rears) 3) Spigot rings are ok and correct fitment 4) Wheels are on securely and have been torqued 5) Subframe is mounted by solid mount rather than poly bushes 6) There does sound like a whining noise coming from the rear of the car, it has been suggested to me that there could be something wrong with the diff. 7) Starts at 55mph and appears worse when accelerating/decelerating I have sourced an original 2 piece prop which I will be picking up soon, the only things I can think to try are replacing the solid mounts with poly bushes and getting a replacement diff. Whilst on the subject of the diff, I understand if I change the TT diff for an NA diff in a TT car, it will increase pickup but reduce top end speed due to gearing ratio? Is this something anyone else has experience of and would it be advisable? Kind regards James

I have had something similar but not quite as severe, I found when changing the MAF I had to disconnect the battery for a while, reconnect and let it do it's thing in learning mode. Might be worth a try?

Looking for complete prop assembly for SWB TT Manual, dependent on location, will collect. Kind regards James

Nothing major, it just felt a bit "lumpy" on idle, revs were pitching up and down a bit. Jim had a new MAF available to test with, put it on and the difference was definitely noticeable. Current MAF still works just not 100%, figured I might as well follow in your footsteps on how to treat jobs on the car! ;) Kind regards, James

Hi, I need to replace the MAF on my 300, but have come up with varying products (with different prices) at different places and have no clue what the differences are likely to be. Examples: https://www.z1motorsports.com/intake-mas-and-hoses/nissan/new-oem-300zx-mass-air-flow-sensor-meter-mas-maf-p-1752.html http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141910316101?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1006674&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=13585920426&rlsatarget=aud-133395220866%3Apla-131843259426&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=122 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/291756181178?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=1006674&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=13585920426&rlsatarget=aud-133395220866%3Apla-146652022866&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=122 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nissan-300ZX-Turbo-2268030P00-A36000N62/dp/B00I4DDRVY http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/mass_air_flow_sensor/nissan/300zx.html Whilst I'm always of the opinion, "buy cheap buy twice", I'm also acutely aware that as these cars become rarer, prices can get artificially inflated. Thoughts, opinions, suggestions, flames are all welcome! Kind regards James

Took my new purchase down to Jim at PowerZed for the once over, to be fair the car is a testament to the previous owner, very good condition with only a few minor things that need some attention. PCV hose was replaced, MAF was diagnosed as being faulty (looking to buy a new one soon), and the rumble from the rear end is the prop or wheels need balancing (taking the car for the wheels to be checked first next weekend). Up on the lift for a look over All in all a good day, drive down was great, drive back on a Friday with stop start traffic....not so much..... but you can't have everything! Kind regards James

Only 2 for now as I was sorting stuff in the garage and packing up other car, still looks tidy I think:

Hi All, I had a 300zx swb tt manual back in 2004 and was on the forum back then too, stupidly sold it and vowed as soon as I was in a position to get one again I would. It's only taken 12 years, but thanks to a nice forum member and his contact, a deal has been struck and I'm now the proud owner of the very same spec but in grey (and generally all round better condition quite frankly!). Kind Regards James