Paul C

Power Transistor Unit, its an ignition amplifier as some manufacturers call it.

or is it still only meant to be tech???? (i'll just wait & see if this gets d*l*ted!! :D )

it was about £350 apiece. speak to the smithmeister

well most things ive ordered from courtesy seem to be at least 1/2 the price of the bits over here. :rolleyes: PTU was about 150 bucks, £275 IIRC over here so it'll prob be £2500-£3000 over here lol!! :rolleyes:

finally got my clutch through. fitted it today along with the ally lightwieght flywheel I ordered through smiffy. good news is the stage 2 RPS clutch is actually considerably lighter in use than my knackered stock one :) for those who care, I wieghed the flywheels (:D !) stock one: 10.5 kg new ally one: a little under 5.5 kg picks up nicely when accelerating - noticably quicker, not done any timed runs yet cos the weather's shite! :rolleyes: but feels good.

its possible the bushes are causing it to. ime most cars drift to the left anyway, following the camber of the road, cars with wider tyres, ie ours, are even more prone. to check, try to find a nice level road & drive the car (when the roads clear! :D ) over the centre white line, see if it still pulls.

have a look at this kit

the problems not likely to be the alternator - tho loading it up with consumers may be making the sympoms worse. start with basics - clean the elecrical connectors on the throttle position sensor, ptu, cas, coils, temp sensor - these can have a nasty habit of forming corrosion on the terminals. may as well clean the throttle bodies with carb cleaner while your there. check/replace your plugs, air & fuel filters. disconnect battery for at least 30 mins to reset ecu adaptation data. pressure release in fuel tank is normal pressure release at clutch is not - sounds like your clutch servo is drawing in air. in fact this could even be your hesitation problem - drawing unmetered air in. hth

how much difference do they really make?? look a bit cosmetic only imo, proper race ones usually have a threaded bar to wind the tension on when bolted down. I always thought the fixed ones were a bit of all show & no go

hi stu, I change mine every 3000 miles, Im using mobil1 at the mo (cos I got it free! ;) ) but a decent semi synth would be fine imo, esp when changing that frequently. as for tc- its up to you really, if thats what you want then get it - I plan on adding it next (once iv paid for my other mods :rolleyes: ) perhaps we should see how much for a group buy ;) I think all would agree to make sure other silly bits & bobs are done 1st. see ya sunday :cool:

how bad can they be?? JWT even supply them with their pop charger kit :confused:

if its only the syncro thats gone, then these are usually quite cheap - cost is in the labour to strip & rebuild. never done a zed, but used to do veedub box rebuilds & fiat/lancia in the past. syncros, bearings, shift levers etc which are the usual wearing parts are generally inexpensive, gears if damaged start to get a bit more expensive & if one of the shafts has gone west then things can start to get really costly. IME

no i didnt, i said: its not my fault your set isnt as comprehensive as mine! :p

after re-reading your post - yes! that is whay you said!! lol!! what can I say, its my week off away from my spanners, gonna need retraining when i get back!! lol:D

thanks Gio, I also forgot to mention you may need spanners/socket set to undo the nuts & bolts holding the components together! :rolleyes:

jeesh :rolleyes:

no, its just retarding the timing & helping to stop detonation, its going to do nothing to stop it running far too weak at higher boost pressures that the standard fuel maps not able to cope with. Its only combatting 1 problem, imo

is that from nelson ajay?? there are other aftermarket clutches you could use, inc better uprated ones ps is that just for the cover?? you also need the centre plate & release bearing

44 in a 40 - that sucks. I always thought you was allowed 10% speedo error??????:confused:

if its gone suddenly, the friction material or cover has prob broken up as opposed to just wearing out.

well, only been done once!! (and that was in a works FSO pickup :D ) got stopped going up the Thanet way at 100 in the works van once - looked in the mirror, saw the lights looked down at the speedo & thought SHIT! copper said " if i book you your gonna loose your licence, did you know that" was very respectful & apologetic & told him i was on my way to a breakdown & he let me off!!!!

ok, gearbox off to get to clutch, clutch off to get to flywheel, flywheel off to get to rear oil seal. is that better?? lol! :rolleyes: tbh, im doing my rear oil seal at the same time as my clutch, its prob worthwhile anyhow while your there. & just heard from smiffy mines in & on its way to me. Yipee!! it'll be in for the meet at the weekend :D phew :rolleyes:

dont want to depress you any more ajay, but check your warranty paperwork - clutches are rarely covered as they are considered an item that should be replaced due to general wear & tear, same as brake pads etc. :(

shit - time to look for an alternative Jay!! lol!

could have been Smelly Enterprises waz!! lol :D surely the whole point of chipping when upping the boost pressure is to allow safe fueling not just timing changes.