Old Zed

Sadly it will not get changed. That happened to me at my local garage and of course l went back once l spotted the error. They said it cannot be changed but gave me a letter on headed notepaper stating the mistake and what the mileage should have been. Not good when you use the DVLA mot checker.

You need Ebay Jeff not a 300zx club site.

This sounds like a party for a group buy. Surely if Pilkos get an order for say 10, the price would tumble. Worth an ask.?

I have just noticed the Zedworlds website now has German, Spanish and Portuguese sections ? Is Jeff planning a comeback ?

Its always looked 'perfect', the problem is that Si is a perfectionist who absolutely loves his car. I would not want to be the paintshop now especially after what Si has called disappointing results. Fingers crossed he has found the top shop to do the job.

If Jimmers down to doing the conversion, you should be in touch with him about what you need to supply and what he can supply. He will also advise you on the ECU, wiring loom, clutch parts etc., which will be from the experience of carryout loads of these conversions. I know because he did a conversion on my first Zed in 2005.

Theres a small hose right at the back of the engine which is prone to perishing and is difficult to see and change, it can be done by dropping one side of the exhaust but it is still not easy. Gearbox out may be your best way or plenum off and also do a bypass.

This type of problem is difficult to diagnose remotely as it could be an injector or a failed plug which could be not actually the plug but the electrics, anyway any of these would result in a loss of power which you have not mentioned.

Your car may have had a conversion from auto to manual and done simply by not fitting the clutch booster. Powerzed in Bristol sells them new if you need one.

Try Jimmer at Powerzed in Bristol, he usually keeps these items.

Any high profile recognition is welcome, especially as the Z32 seems to attract negative attention, well done all at the show, fabulous all round.

Spot on Jeff but l did bring my first Zed to you to fit the vertical bolt in the clutch pedal which l messed about with for hours and failed. You fitted it while l waited, you show off. Lol.

You do not mention the year of the car, this can have an effect on compression tests. Early Zeds had a different design head than later ones which resulted in the valve seats wearing badly and causing a loss of compression. The problem is so bad that the only answer is expensive machining or secondhand heads from a later car. The heads are coded via the casting mark but only visible when actually off the xar.

I reckon he's driven around Europe trying to find you Jeff to sort it out and then gave up and went home. Probably does not know where Portugal is.

I totally agree with Jeff, I had an old dink pull out on me and demolished the front of my S2 and I cut the front off and had a good secondhand one welded on. So much easier petting the mechanicals back on the area affected than a total shell swap. I attempted that on a Ford..........never again as there is an order of actually doing it, get it wrong and your back to stripping out again. One thing I will say is that the metal used in a Zed is sturdy and is heavy to align and position but if you can find a body shop with a jig and willing to take it on then it is so much better. Of course the big decider is the condition of your existing shell.

Any vehicle given a 'Q' plate usually indicates its identity cannot be proven which from the above information tells me that formerly it was a great spec car. Unfortunately it also appears that all the good bits have been removed and sold off leaving just the shell. Someone then has bought the shell with no paperwork and rebuilt it with other mechanicals..........in Oz. With no valid paperwork and no indication of its capabilty as its running a base map, l think its another Ebay dreamer.

Yes they should be fine, l don't know about the 'easy to fit' bit. They are easy to fit when the engine is out but a pita with the engine in and from underneath. Good luck with them.

Get it hooked up to Conzult, and get the sensors checked plus a power test, that should give you a good indication of whats working properly and engine health.

Speak to Jimmer at Powerzed, that costs nothing.

That looks brilliant but it also looks expensive, hopefully brakes and suspension also uprated.

If the car is mainly used for road use, you will find harnesses a real pain at certain road junctions as it restricts your vision out of the right hand windows. Keep both if possible which is a bit messy but safer when used on the road.

Check the connectors from the ptu to the cas unit, they tend to corrode due to the ingress of moisture. Contact cleaner stiff brush will clean them up.

Its really down to buying the right car in the beginning, luckily there is enough info and support on this site to hopefully avoid someone ending up with a shed.

its the difference between a fast buck and a long term relationship.............which only happens through honest trading.

Pmsl........