Twin Turbo

With the engine OFF & the ignition ON & the throttle closed (at idle position) you should see TPS voltage of 0.40V to 0.50V with the usual setting of 0.45V being the average setting. At full throttle opening, the voltage should be 4.0V.

Don't know why you're expecting to see "1"? When the throttle is closed it is in the idle position. What is the voltage you should set the TPS to at idle?

His research is 100% correct. The R32 GT-R V Spec was factory fitted with Brembo brakes front & rear. These are the perfect fitment for a Z32.

Adam D is correct. The unidentified object has been used in an attempt to keep the defect from worsening. That's a typical defect seen in many early model Z32's. I think it's a case of having to remove it to have any chance of a successful repair. It may be easier to replace it with a used one from a later series that's in better condition.

From the HKS website: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/oil/oilfilter/index.html However, to maintain optimum low pressure loss properties, it is recommended to change the filter every 3000km when an oil change is performed.

The only way you will ever know what the oil pressure really is, is to remove the oil pressure sender & install an accurate gauge. The oil pressure will be higher when the engine is cold compared to normal operating temperature. The oil pressure specifications in the Nissan Service Manual state: With the engine at operating temperature, under no load & at idle, the pressure should be more than 11psi. At 3000rpm it should be between 51 & 65psi.

That hose you have pictured appears to be an original Nissan item, so it's probably as old as your vehicle. Chances are, every "difficult to get to hose" will be the same age & in a similar condition. You could save yourself future dramas & headaches by changing ALL the coolant system hoses rather than just replacing this one.

People seem to be preoccupied with checking voltage as a means of diagnosing electrical issues. The voltage appearing on the multimeters for all intents & purposes may indicate all is OK, in reality it may not be correct. Why? Because the correct method of checking voltages for diagnostic purposes is to measure voltage drop through the circuit. Voltage drop can only be measured when the circuit being tested is under load. Measuring the resistance in ohms of a fuel injector or ignition coil will only indicate the integrity of the wiring in the coil. The resistance values will vary in accordance with the temperature of the item under test. It will not provide any indication of the serviceability of the injector in relation to cleanliness, flow rate or spray pattern, the only way to test these important aspects of a fuel injector are to remove it, have it cleaned & tested on a machine. Also fuel injectors can be 'lazy' or slow in operation, ohms testing won't identify this problem, measuring amperage with a low current probe & a meter capable of graphing the readings will assist in identifying this type of fault. The same deal with coil packs, once again the coil integrity is tested with the multimeter using ohms, the output of the coil can be compromised by poor connections to the spark plug, leading to carbon tracking to ground. If this occurs the spark plug won't fire, or if it does it will certainly only operate intermittently. Spark plug type, heat range & gap can also have an affect on engine performance. The first thing to be checked in my book is engine compression, if engine compression is down, performance will be down & fuel usage will be up. Also, if there is a dud cylinder, no amount of testing & changing out components is going to fix it. Changing out parts as a means of diagnosing faults is a very poor method of rectifying problems & will turn out to be expensive in the long run. If fuel pressure is a concern, then testing the pressure is mandatory. Fuel pumps wear out eventually, that's a fact of life. Fuel pump condition can be diagnosed using a low current probe & graphing capable multimeter by checking the current across the commutator segments.

A fully charged battery will read around 12.7VDC open circuit. An alternator at idle generally indicates around 14.2VDC. The other thing to check is AC ripple voltage. Here's a link:

A fully charged battery will read around 12.7VDC open circuit. An alternator at idle generally indicates around 14.2VDC. The other thing to check is AC ripple voltage. Here's a link:

My response is based on what I have seen in other Z32's & they never looked right.

Other members have covered the removal process, so my comment is in relation to recovering the dash in leather. Forget about it! You would be much better off finding a dash in good condition & changing them over. When you're looking for a replacement don't just look for imperfections in the visible surface area, also look for broken & cracked mounts.

Wiring & connection problems account for at least 90% of drivability issues.

A pity you didn't have a GoPro, it would've been pretty funny to watch on YouTube! Seriously, you were very lucky, glad you're OK & lived to tell the tale.

Going on the crap on the injector & the mounting plate, that injector has never been removed. Or if it has, it was a long time ago, also the Phillips head screws look like they've never been undone. Maybe it's time to consider having the injectors serviced? I hope the wire in the black terminal housing isn't indicative of the wiring on your vehicle. Look carefully at the image, is that bare wire at the end of the insulation? At a guess I'd say that's the fuel temperature sensor wire.

They aren't called "Short Shifters" they're not any shorter than an OEM shifter, they're called "Short Throw Shifters". The total distance the top of the shifter moves is a bit less than an OEM shifter. I used a Japanese manufactured C's Shifter on a Z32 OS Giken Close Ratio gearbox & it was perfect without any sign of gear engagement problems. If your gearbox & linkages are in good condition you won't have any problems with a short throw shifter. Don't expect faster gear changes or any performance gains changing to a short throw shifter. There is something seriously wrong if your hand is anywhere near the dash when changing gears!

Code #34 Detonation Sensor - won't have an effect on the engine idle. Code #21 Ignition Signal - will affect idle & drivability. The things to check relate to the Power Transistor Unit (PTU), wiring & connections. Diagnostic Procedure 27 relating to Code No.21 can be found in the EF & EC Section in the NISSAN Factory Service Manual.

Q: "Can you buy an uprated 3.7 crown wheel and pinion set for the TT diff??" A: No. Notice Coz's wording in his advertisement - Richmond Gear Company Leader Differential Gear Set 4.10 Twin Turbo TT Z32 Mark Leader in the USA organised the 4.1:1 gears to be manufactured by Richmond Gears. Hence they are commonly referred to as "Leader Gears".

For Non Turbo & Turbo Z32's, if the air conditioner is OFF - The radiator fan is OFF if the coolant temperature is 104 deg C or less & ON if the engine temperature is 105 deg C or more. If the air conditioner is ON - For a Non Turbo, if the vehicle speed is BELOW 39kmh & the coolant temperature is BELOW 94 deg C, the fan is OFF. If the coolant temperature is ABOVE 95 deg C, the fan is ON (High speed). If the vehicle speed is ABOVE 40kmh & the coolant temperature is BELOW 104 deg C, the fan is OFF, once the coolant temperature reaches 105 deg C the fan is ON (High speed). A Twin Turbo is a little different, if the vehicle speed is BELOW 39kmh & the coolant temperature is BELOW 89 deg C, the fan is OFF. If the coolant temperature is BETWEEN 90 to 99 deg C, the fan is ON at LOW speed. If the coolant temperature is ABOVE 100 deg C, the fan is ON at HIGH speed. At a speed ABOVE 40kmh, the fan will be OFF if the coolant temperature is BELOW 104 deg C & ON at HIGH speed if the temperature is ABOVE 105 deg C.

Buy yourself a Longacre Digital Camber Gauge Kit. http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?itemid=1797&prodid=7252&pagetitle=Digital+C%2fC+Gauge+w+AccuLevel%e2%84%a2+and+Quick+Set%e2%84%a2+Adapter

When you are upgrading your sound system the components should compliment each other. So, the amp or amps power output should match your speakers. Keep in mind the quality of the speakers will have a significant impact on the quality of the sound, so you should get the best speakers you can afford. Once you have your speakers, then you should get the amp/s to drive them. Used amps & speakers are a good option, as the prices are significantly reduced from new so high end components become more affordable.

I would suggest you price OEM blank keys from a Nissan dealer locally before you purchase from overseas.

I would suggest that you save up & get NIStune.

You are correct concerning the clock spring having to be changed from the airbag to non-airbag type. The steering columns are the same length, so you don't need to change it. The cover pieces between the steering wheel & dash are different between the airbag & non-airbag models, that's why there would be a gap. The rear of the steering wheels are also different between airbag & non-airbag models, that's why they have the two types of covers.

The splines are the same. As an example, an airbag & non-airbag steering wheel are interchangeable.