Twin Turbo

You haven't mentioned what gauges you already have. Not much point in having gauges if they're not connected. That aside, lots of gauges is a ****. Do you have 52mm or 60mm gauges? Innovate Motorsports market a dual wideband A/F gauge, so you can monitor both banks on a single gauge. Apart from fuel & oil pressure any other information of interest can be monitored using ECUTalk etc. which would also provide additional diagnostic functions.

You would probably make more money, importing the cars & parting them out. Plus you won't have the registration issues.

1990 vehicle with 22,000 miles on the clock, that's an average of 880 miles per year.

The important thing is they fit correctly. There are a number of conversions to bigger rotors. 324mm rotors with StopTech or aftermarket calipers 324mm rotors with OEM Z32 calipers & adapters 324mm rotors with R32 & R33 GT-R Brembo calipers 324mm rotors with the Z33 Brembo calipers. The GT-R Brembo & the Z33 Brembo calipers are almost identical, however if using the Z33 calipers, the mounting bolts are larger in diameter, therefore the mounting holes need to be enlarged. The GT-R Brembo calipers are a straight bolt on, no drilling etc required. Z33 Brembo rear calipers don't fit, whereas the GT-R Brembo calipers are a straight bolt on affair. It is possible the front rotor could be off centre by 5mm if the Z33 rotors are used, dependant on the mounting arrangement.

The only good point to that vehicle is someone else owns it & it's their problem. Maybe the guys that "hate it", recognise it's lack of potential. Keep on looking!

Paul Bailey should hang his head in shame!

Don't know what colour the Euro Z32's were, but the JDM's have a charcoal metallic colour on the wiper cowls, around the exterior mirrors & the strips on the roof.

Did you get 324mm 350Z rotors or 300ZX rotors? Why? Because there is a 5mm difference in sizing between the two, sort of like wheel offset.

Yes you are correct, I don't seem to have an edit button.

For one litre?

How much are you guys paying for petrol? Pricing here varies as follows - E10 from $111.9 (58.53) to $1379.9 (72.13) per litre 98 from $133.5 (69.83) to $157.9 (82.59) per litre

I've never used a multimeter to test the O2's, as I use ConZult or Nistune. Have a look in the Nissan FSM, under the Engine Fuel & Emission Control System - Trouble Diagnosis - Diagnostic Procedure #30. Although this section relates to an O2 sensor fault, it provides information on the connector locations in the engine bay as well a circuit diagram.

I wouldn't say the O2 sensors are easy to get to, but at this stage you don't need to. It would be in your interest to confirm they are working though. To do this you'll need to confirm they are constantly changing voltage from between 0 to 1VDC. Don't be surprised if the voltages are a little more than 0, or a little less than 1 volt, this is normal. If the voltage is not constantly changing, there is a problem.

Sound advice concerning the temperature sender. The sensor could be OK, but a poor wiring connection will cause issues. Have you checked the O2 sensors?

Man that engine has some corrosion, looks like a sal****er marine engine. Now would be a good time to have the injectors serviced & something needs to be done about the green corrosion on the injector pins. The green stuff has more than likely come from the injector wiring/connectors. Chances are other connections such as coilpacks etc could be in a similar condition.

The devil is in the detail! Just because a NISMO decal is on the rear end, doesn't make it a NISMO Z32, which the other boy's are correct in saying, never existed. Personally, I would steer clear of that car. You have done the right thing asking about it here before parting with your cash. If you are really keen on it, the next thing to do would be to see if you can get a forum member to inspect the car with you. There is an inspection check sheet available that is invaluable when looking at used Z32's, make sure you print it out & take it with you. If the engine is sound & producing the claimed horsepower, it will spin the wheels in all four gears, so once again, it would be beneficial to have someone with you that is familiar with these cars. There are plenty of Z32's available, some have been very well looked after, some are pieces of crap. Buyer Beware!

I think you'd find if the bushes were worn to the extent to allow the subframe to move the amount indicated in the pictures, you would have definitely noticed it prior to changing to the different wheels. For instance the movement would be from side to side, not in one direction only. The obvious question to be asked is, has the vehicle been involved in an accident? Then, what are the camber settings?

G'day & thankyou. East Coast Z, I joined aus300zx after I bought the Z. The forum has changed considerably since the time I first joined, met a lot of great people along the way. I signed onto this forum as it appears to be a bit different.

Thank you as well. Yes, located in the sunshine of Australia!

Thanks for the welcome. I was surprised the user name was available as well, you'd think it would have been one of the first to go.

Hi Gary, thanks for the welcome. The are some pics in the links, it is the only Silver Z, so you should be able to spot it. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331212

Ride - 1993 JDM Twin Turbo Body - 2.0 Targa Transmission - 5 Speed manual Colour - KL0 Platinum Mist Metallic Trim - G Velour Mods JUN Aero Bonnet Nistune ECU eBoost II boost controller (inc shift lights) Z1 one piece tailshaft Nissan Xenon headlights Nissan 2K spec front fascia, indicators, grille & intercooler ducts Nissan 2K spec rear taillights & centre panel Trust catback exhaust Racelogic Traction Control (digital) with launch & full throttle shift 4.1:1 Leader Gears / Quaife diff Nissan OEM US Spec Wheels front 16" x 7.5" rear 16" x 8.5". Engine is totally stock (including air filtration) except for eBoost at 15 psi & Nistune, 325 rear wheel horsepower.

Most are polished, the same as the induction manifolds, not chromed. Powder coating is another option. If you are going to polish engine parts, it is not a one off deal, you'll be creating an on going task for yourself.