Z32

yea, S14, Supra, RX7, GTO , skyline, all fit the Z. yea check out Driftworks always cool rims going on there.

ive pressed it quite hard with a screw driver, doenst budge. asume its seized then? will try force it out now. after you remove the banjo bolt & remove the spring, what do you put in there then, just a normal bolt isit? or do you have to put this thing back, and block at that end?

right ive opened up my new TT pump. i cant see a spring come out? nor a piston in there? this is what it looks like in there has it already been removed? or is that the piston right at the back (doesnt seem to spring back tho?) secondly, they say to put the existing black bolt back in, but it wont go all the way back in? its not threaded to the end, and fluid will leak through it as its a banjo bolt!?

i had ebay ones for 40 quid each, new. works fine, CO level are right down with them

actually just read it, the black bolt you have to undo to remove the piston & spring, you just put that back in all the way, they have removed this part already & missed it out of the pic. (bit pointed to in red)

people do remove the HICAS solnoid from the engine bay, id imagein the electrical wires go from the PAS ECU (footwell) then the hicas oil pipes go to the back of the car.

was thinking this, on that PDF, they have kept the banjo bolt, and Hicas pipe which connects there, and just ran another feed to the resivour? can i just stick another bolt that goes all the way in will do? (the existing banjo bolt will onjly go in half way)

i just cut mine with a scissors at the bottom of the seat

ah ritey o. well iv bought a new pump and its come today, but il just remove the pin/spring out of the existing pump and see if works. if not il swap the pumps over & take the spring out 1st this time :glare: thanks for the info on the spring/psiton. will report back

i didnt remove that when i removed my HICAS, so have i got lots of pressure built up & ruind my pump? have no power steering, but theres fluid in there, its whining away & no power steering?

bump :mellow:

check the fuses, then do an ECU diagnostics check, easy, it tells you what errors it has. then sort them.

didnt think the power steering was controlled/efected by anything electrical, just thaught it was all mechanically operated only? my power steering is anoying as hell, but think my pump is dead (alternate post on here)

thanks for the PDF :) my car is NA, so it doesnt have the HICAS solenoid/pressure pipe. i have a TT engine & pump tho, in the NA car. so C is the take-off for the HICAS, i just block that off. why do you have to remove the piston & spring then? i didnt do this on the old pump, is this why i have broken mine?

also which take-off goes where, and is this the bit that spins? A - Hicas? B - resivour C - steering rack correct?

can you elabarate on this please? my pump was working fine, then i removed the hicas, had a leak from somewhere, then the pump stopped working. presumably as i ran it dry and damaged the pump. or would i have killed the pump by not removing thr rotating elemant/knife (whatver that is?)

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g254/eerrrrr/3-1.jpg the ends just look like hoops?

im going to be fitting my new TT pump next week, ive got rid of the HICAS. the pump itself has 3 take offs, 1 for the HICAS, 1 for the steering rack & one for the resivour. 1) is the HICAS take-off high pressure? i need to block it off, wana make sure it seals & doesnt leak. when the garage did it for me before think they put a banjo init, but shortly after the pump died (leak elsewhere) 2) how do you undo the banjo bolt on the high pressure take-off? 3) do i have to seal them when re-fitting the banjos?

on my old car, i jsut used to put a tiny bit of super glue on the top of the gaitor, then stuck it to the nob

when the engine is on, air is sent from the balance bar to the clutch pedal, so it makes operating the clutch easier. when i put my clutch back together after an auto to manual conversion, the clutch gave re-sistance when engine off, but none when on. bled it a million times, but in the end just needed to adjust the clutch, to the maximum it goes. still doesnt feel like it used to, but operates the car fine & doesnt slip, and bighting point is nice and low to the floor

thats probably where i messt up, used the TT bracket & TT belt, didnt work.

so when the wastegate is shut, thats the maximum boost?

little confused, been reading this http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/factory_jets/factory_jets.htm i understand that the wastegate opens when it receives 7PSI (as this is what the spring is pre-set to) then it says this.... if you remove the line or plug it completely, the actuator can never open and you will hit "infinite boost". i thought if you remove the line from the boost source to the wastegate completly, the wastegates cannot open, as theres no pressure to open them? if the wastegate cannot open, surely NO boost or 7PSI will be acheived? not infinite boost???

the boss is the bit that the steering wheel attaches to.

the horn button acts as the negative when connected, then it has its own posotive from the relays in the engine bay. my car didnt have the wire that went from the boss to the engine bay somehow. so i ran a new wire all together. ran negative from the horn to the boss, then a posotive from the horn to the battery. when you push the horn, it completes the circuit & "hoots" :)