Gio

Shedloads of people from Japan to US - and ever a historical link to a German called Albrecht Goertz. The story is told in the excellent book "Nissan 300ZX - The Enthusiast's Companion" © Ray Hutton & MRP Ltd and the following pic is from there

Little bit closer than Lancashire and Tamworth: http://www.euro-spec2000.co.uk is NW ish of Guildford and comes recommended by Fat Tony http://www.protech-uk.co.uk is in Bristol and was recommended by someone here but can't remember who. HTH - Gio

Unless a) Nissan had a "d'oh" moment when specing up the UK model on the production line and gave them the front half of the wiring diag / suspension design from Japan and the back half from the US by mistake b) we're all having d'oh moments and missing something blindingly obvious c) the wiring diag in the manual is wrong the above suggestion is the only logical idea no matter how dagenham* it is. "When you have excluded the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Still confused after all these years - Gio * two stops short of barking

"Those who will not learn from history are condemned to repeat it!" ;) hehe No I don't like that blue, no I don't like that font, the 6 looks too like the 8, can I have it with ...... Good luck !

Yes mate, that's exactly what I said! So what is telling the controller to actuate? Only the parkbrake switch AFAICS? Cheers - Gio

Congrats both - :D Gio

Yes when you click up one click on the handbrake the shocks do go stiff. But there does not appear to be any other way of making this happen. So either a) why have they fitted this or b) is the control unit telepathic? Anyone know? Still :confused: Gio (Why I am so obsessed with this, God knows - I've got a J spec so it doesn't matter :D )

Hey - the guy's got a business to run - give him a break. Somone in Oz spots there's interest over here and tips off Auto Illusions. He posts about his product (cheaper than the US one) and even sends over a sample set. Yes he's trying to make sales. And look at the responses - I wouldn't blame him if he never came back again. Pity the poor business man - if you think it's easy, try it your self. Gio

According to the wiring diag , there is no connection to the ECU. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi page RA-26 The Adjustable Shock Absorber Control Unit is connected to the rear shock actuators, the ignition switch, the parking brake switch, the brake warning lamp and earth. How does it get the signal to firm up when the throttle is open? Or anything else come to that? :confused: - Gio

He's on the telly right now (C4 test coverage 1.25pm Fri): Can we have some free electricity now please sir? :D

Sorry MAC - only "ish" :D Those round things with rubber on aren't as stock as mine!

51x - yeh, 1/3rd was for bikes which rev much higher so 1/3rd gave you reasonable speeds (reasonable? hah!). It's probably too low for Zeds maybe even too low down in the torque curve? AndyP's method sounds right. Pootling round country roads sounds a good way of doing it - varying engine revs, different gears etc but light loads. Luck, matey - Gio :D

Wonk - you might like to try http://www.zcentre.co.uk - they're in Nottingham Bad luck with the pixies and squirrels. Cheers - Gio

a) Nissan garage b) http://www.mjpauto.com c) For Sale and Wanted d) AndyZ's 2nd hand emporium HTH - Gio

Bike rule of thumb was no more than 1/3rd max revs for first 500 miles then 2/3rds for next 500 m. Don't know if this works for cars though... Also don't stick at constant revs for any length of time. EG if you went out and did 200m sticking to 50mph on a motorway, you risk putting a slight "step" in the cylinder wall which causes cr*p when you try to go to the next higher rev limit. You should use the car naturally but gently - smoothness on the throttle and never floor it until after you've run in. If you gradually let yourself use more of the throttle travel as you get closer to the end of your run-in period, you should be OK. (Team Green did have a novel way of running in their race engines tho' - build it, light oil, fire it up, redline it - there you go, that's another one run-in!) HTH - Gio

When you post, click the IMG button just above where you type what you are posting. This brings up a dialog box into which you type (or paste) the URL pointing at where your image file is. And when you click OK it inserts the right code in where you are typing. Cheers - Gio

Until Nelson spots this, here's a couple of urls to get you going. http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=uk-en&FC1=&FC2=%2FLeftHandNav%3FLeftNavState%3D3&FC3=%2Fglobal%2Fshell_for_motorists%2Foils_lubricants%2Fhelix%2Ffaqs%2Fspecs_faq_ga_3009.html&FC4=&FC5= http://www.unicornmotor.com/well_oil_be_blowed.htm HTH - Gio

da dalada da daa da dalada daa daaa da dalaaadaaa dear emeroooo da dalada da da :D

Ah so - wakarimas' Just sounded as if someone was giving cr*p advice to a member in good standing (Mr Magnet). Konbanwa - Gio

No - it's b0ll0x. You should ONLY used unleaded. If you put leaded or LRP, you'll damage the cats (if you still have 'em) and cause all sorts of god knows what. Use the best octane unleaded - I use Optimax. But I've had no problems with lower grades if I can't get it. This is for unmodded (except for exhaust) J import. For modded cars, I am sure you'll get some input from modded car peeps here. Cheers - Gio

Slippery slope, mate - it'll be fluorescent pink and me with a gold lame jump suit next. :D uh-huh Bulbs are only £14.75 the pair, tho' http://www.powerbulbs.com/products/product.php?prodid=psv&type=IND tata - Gio

Mike Feeney is Tech Advisor to the Z Club and can be found at http://www.mjpauto.com Good bloke and knows shedloads (having all the right parts fiches helps too!). HTH - Gio

"This is my other car"

cully z - sorry mate, I don't have the bit you describe. John - no worries - pm or e-mail me your address. It's yours. Cheers - Gio

merde, mostly hehehe