Gio

Ok most aftermarket exhausts make more noise so we need to think about cause / effect / cure. Standard exhaust should be no problem for France DVLA as standard 300ZX was sold there. Is it more noisy because it has holes? ("already cut by rust"?). I suggest you contact Sean Dezart via http://www.zclub.net as a) he is mostly French and b) lives mostly in France and c) has mostly Zeds! and d) usually speaks mostly French. (unlike most of us here who can barely speak English :rofl: vive La France :D )

:rofl: Justin - not exactly local. But worked in Camberley & Guildford, lived in Bracknell, Ash and when I needed a 2nd opinion, went back to my old dentist. Mainly because I remembered where he was and that car park is free!

According to the article, chargecoolers are more effective than intercoolers as liquid transfers heat better. Yes it's a more complex fit.

errr not quite mate. Intercooler is air / air, charge cooler is air / liquid with remote liquid / air radiator somewhere else. Current issue of Japanese Performance has long article on this featuring http://www.paceproducts.co.uk/automotive-parts.shtml

Putney is on the wrong side of London for Essex! But he does travel, I think. If you get no joy there, try asking Mike Feeney http://www.mjpauto.com as he is a) a trader here and b) in Essex

Justin - hallo mate, yep that's right. Being prodded by pointy things by a cheerful dentist. :eek: BigRoy - if you weren't permanently on the sick whenever I visit Leatherhead, you'd know :D

Mark IV Air Conditioning, Unit 7a, Middle Green Trading Estate, Middle Green Road, Langley, Berks SL3 6DF 01753 512747 £70.50 regas with R134a no conversion needed. Very straight talking, no bull.

:shock: bloody nora - that's going back a bit. I'll try to find the original and scan it up here (and now I have to buy an Evo on the way back tonite) :D ah - just found one pic on the HDD (why do I never get to go on photoshoots when it's sunny!) - more at home...

have you got something you can boot off? Say a Windows CD?

no worries - a lot of people do recommend this (upgrade J rears to UK) and say they find a benefit - and it is a straight swop no problems. But just for me, it hasn't given any big benefit.

Don't get caught by the wheel police - check for the L and R on the wheels to make sure you get 2 x L and 2 x R. Also, I changed from J rears to UK rears in Aug 2003 and the only difference I found (bearing in mind I drive like a granny) was that the tyres cost more and don't last as long. You also lose an element of flexibility in that if you have 225s (Jspec) all round then you can at least swop front and back (on the same side) to even out tyre wear. Which you can't if you have 225 L & R on the front and 245 L & R on the back.

too right mate :D nice to have the boot on the other foot for a change - and Claudio did OK with £0 to build a really strong base for Josie and the pussycats. And it's all worth it just to see the look on Ferguson's face :rofl: Chelski, Chelski is our name hahaha

It's not free anymore (which is a shame) but it isn't expensive and there is a free download trial so you can see if you like it: http://www.firetrust.com/products/pro/ Mailwasher lets you see the spam on your inbound mail server (and delete it) before it gets anywhere near your PC. I've used it since it was shareware!

"Deferment Proc Fee" I just checked with our shipping bod and a "Deferment Guarantee" is an account which an importing company (eg TNT) has with the Customs in order that they can pay the VAT they collect on imported goods. Importers generally charge for the use of their account - either flat rate or % with min charge. That seems to be what they hit you with.

also here http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/acfan.htm and, for fun, http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12700&highlight=fan http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12511&highlight=fan http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12105&highlight=fan http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13149&highlight=fan

OK I've had a new PTU, new coilpack connectors, new plugs, cleaned throttle bodies, no codes on the ECU, fuel consumption is 20.2 mpg av, it's unmodded, running smooth, freshly serviced and I still get cat overheat light from time to time. Beats me! I agree that you would get the light if you are over-fuelling so it's a good tell-tale. But it looks as if this light might also come on "just because". Oddly only JDM cars have these warning lights. No other market thought it worthwhile fitting even though (I guess) all cats would overheat under over-fuelling. Also those lights do not connect to the ECU so overheating cats is not thought important enough to actually do anything. Oh, and according to AndyP / MrF I might be the only Zedder to bother putting them back on! Everyone else just cuts the leads and/or tapes them out of the way. Best guess so far is they mean "warning - please buy new cats" or are just something insisted on by Japan regs. Any other ideas?

bloody 'ell he gets everywhere :rofl: must have been the proceeds from the bank job :D :D have we got an extradition treaty with Peru :tongue:

best place to start for Essex-based stuff is Mike Feeney in Traders Forum http://www.mjpauto.com

welcome to the converted!

can you bring back some marmalade sandwiches please?

Both the clutch master (on the bulkhead in the engine compartment) and the slave cylinder (on the transmission down below) go. I had clutch probs and have had 2 masters and a slave done. Touch wood, the new slave seems to have done the trick but it's only a month since... And remember, the clutch system has two bleed points and both need doing. Good luck.

From the pics, looks like cracking on the coating / paint. If the alloy itself was cracking, it would be in a stress area, surely - and look as if its coming inside out (I'm no metallurgical expert but...)

OK so maybe the EU isn't all bad? :rofl:

start here http://www.300zx.org.uk/import_dating.htm This advice has been posted by others - not because they wanted to waste your time, because it is their best advice (and it's good). AndyP has a CD where he can check more details (which is why we ask him and try to stay on his good side by following his advice). That's my advice: follow the links and advice already given. Most of it is right.

http://www.amzperformance.com/z32/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=46&category_id=5ecb17f767957067b7ac39443953cbf6& manufacturer is http://www.powertrix.com but his website is a shadow of its former self