Funkysi

Wire brush will only remove the surface rust, not what lies beneath. Most car rust comes from the inside out. You can't protect something that's already there. To do that you need to cut out the affected area, re-sheet, paint and seal. Get some pics up of the rust. Can have an idea from photos which way it's rusting.

Be VERY sparing with this stuff.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=137055

Too bling and waaaayyyy too modern for the Z32 IMO.

Please don't tell me you're putting gauges in the engine bay!?! :rofl: Good work on the fabrication though. Pretty good going despite all the red bits.

Not a fan, sorry. Never really seen the appeal in the whole 'carbon fibre look' either.

With beans!!!

Got a feeling the P16 is the one for the auto NA. Not 100% sure though. JeffTT or Mr.F should know.

Looks nice there Allan.

That's for garment making. IE thin! No wonder it's 18 quid a hide!

Looks very nice! Just a set of 99-spec rears and some refurbished UK wheels and that will look spot on!

^^ good man. It's when they look their best!

Similar, but not the same. The bumper is a Mission bumper. ----> http://www.mission-z.jp/SHOP/z32-001.html

In reference to what you've experienced, I posed a question to Charles Park of Powertrix and got this response. I am probably going to go and see Charles when I am in San Diego next month as mine have made a bit of a clunk. I've always sworn by Powertrix. They are track tested to destruction on Charles' own Z32 and they have a very very low failure rate in the US (their main customer base). Here are some helpful tips: On only a couple of rare occasions have we experienced what you have described and have found that the end of the camber arms started to come unscrewed and the working back and forth of the threads can cause noise and the play that is happening. The ends that bolt into the inner bracket is most likely the culprit. This is an easy remedy but requires the de-installation of the arms from the car. The ends of the camber arms that the long bolts go through are comprised of 3 main body pieces that all screw together. To fix this, once the arm is de-installed, you will find that those parts in question are slightly loose and you can manually start to unscrew them. They won’t come undone all the way and will be tough to unscrewed completely due to the thread lock applied during initial assembly but what needs to be done is to work them back and forth until they do unscrew completely. Once this is done, clean the threads and apply Locktite (Red color – high strength thread lock and reassemble.) This cures the issue instantaneously and permanently. Please feel free to contact me if I can be of further tech assistance. Sincerely, Charles Park POWERTRIX Performance & Styling http://www.powertrix.com (NOW OPEN) Office 858-566-5060 Mobile 619-944-6055

Falkens or Dunlops are going to be your choice then. Pretty sure Avons are going to be quite a bit more. But that depends on what sizes you're after I guess.

Get the first one. The correct ones.

Why? Sunderland use to be a huge industrial town. The industry has now gone, the money in the north has now gone, along with a huge number of jobs.

What's your budget? That's 50% of the deciding factor!

Surprised there's the market for expensive drinks in Sunderland with about half of the place on the dole. I have paid more for drinks in Sweden though.

If you're going to go for the 99 spec lights then you really need the centre panel. The light surrounds also have chrome bezels and just do not match if you use your old one.

That's crap and a complete waste of time/effort/money! LOL.

2 Manual boost controllers??!!??

Martin, if you're about next Saturday, I'll come down and refit the rest of your interior for you if you like?

:wack:

I do that on a daily basis.