Funkysi

Thanks dude and appreciate the comments. I've put some updated photos in the 'pictures/videos' section. I had about 4! haha! 1 I forgot the password to, another that got my account banned again, another that I logged in on here with last week to reply to a the committee's thread which Gary banned (adhering to site protocol) and another that I just used to browse. :)

Yeah, there was no mention of an NA subframe, maybe he changed the lot. I was going to say, I hadn't heard of a TT converted NA Diff (mech).

In principle, I'd rather have one, but I don't want the NA diff. Having said that, I haven't seen an NA modified diff with the TT mech inside it like Sayers' one. Be interesting to know a little more.

Guess you're talking to the other guy - sorry. He must have taken the mech out of the NA diff and fitted to a TT diff. Yeah, strange that you're not using the NA subframe.

You talking to me or the other guy? I don't want the ratios the NA diff has and a TT diff won't fit an NA subframe. I do quite a lot of long distance and continental cruise in my Z and don't want another 500rpm on top when I am doing motorway speeds. A keeps noise down and (less importantly, fuel consumption).

Until I do my full HICAS delete, I've unplugged these two. Now, I would rather have it all working, it's the ONLY thing in my car that doesn't and I'm anal about stuff like that, but it's had an error that I just can't rectumify, so I am doing a full delete when I have some spare time as I have the NA PAS pot and PAS pump + hicas lockout bar etc. Anyway, these two I've unplugged and my CC works perfectly. I know the lower one is the level light which is the one you pulled didn't you? I took the bulb out too, but my CC works fine. I'm running a UK CC ECU and a series 4 CC column paddle, but it worked fine with the old JDM ECU/buttons.

These are the guys I hang out with in LA. Arnel Solas and Dokk Tekk, the two guys that organise these are good friends of mine. The LA meets are amazing. HUGE numbers turn up. For a regional meet, you'll get 20-30 Z32s on a good day at the LAZ32 meets alone. A bad day, 10-15 SoCalZ32 are guys from San Diego, Orange County and LA county. I know most of the cars in that video!

That video is 'unavailable'.

Unplug the grey or shitty-red connector for the HICAS modulator. Plug in the PAS connect (can't think of which one you mean). If you need me to take a photo, let me know.

NO! That was Lauraloos. She was a complete rotbag! Christ. Lauraloos was some 30 year old fat biffer from Scotland with no teeth that tried it on with some MIG members. Bex was a 19 year old size 8 blonde from Wrexham.

I haven't been on there for a while. I stopped using not long after I'd finished screwing BexGTi. She was crazy! Hot though! Being 19 though and blonde, she was just a mental head case.

Awesome! Thanks. That photo is blurred as hell and I feel sick now!

Yes, the 1/4 windows need to be cut out. They're bonded in with windscreen bond. Cheese wire and plenty of lube to cut through it. Takes some time and patience. I've removed a few of them.

Remove the top cown over the speedo (2 screws) The speaker is a black box at the back to the left, connected by yellow and white plug. Its screwed onto a metal bracket. You can just unplug it. That will disable all chimes, or there is a wire you can cut that only disabled the speed chime but I cant remember which, Im sure there is a writeup somewhere. I cant remember if you can see it from just removing the cowl, you may have to pull the clocks out too.

That's the speed chime warning that's standard on JDM cars. You need to take the clocks out to pull the chime wire. I can't remember which one it is, but if you search 'speed chime', you should be able to find out which wire it is that needs pulling. It's green from memory, that's all I can remember! haha

Another Z in the Bristol area! I remember you! You still use VoXN Rob?

Sorry for dragging this old thread up. But Graham, do you have a circuit diagram for the area in question? I used to have a drawing indicating the tracks and joints that fail, but I can't find it anymore. It's probably on one of my old dead laptops (riddled with viruses from looking at too much porn). My UK speedo does this sometime from cold. Leave the car in the sun for a while and it's fine, but it gets stored in a cool garage all the time and first thing, it doesn't work. Usually fine after 5 minutes of driving, but it's getting annoying. Last of the things I need to fix on my car and I'm pulling the clocks at the weekend to fit anti-rattle-tape behind it.

Le merde du chein sur les voiture! Mmmmm, c'est delicieux! :) It's awesome to be be back. Been back a few days now and gradually working my way round the new forum. Plenty of new faces, but it's great to see some of the old-ish crew still here.

At the very least, you'll need the following - a dash obviously. - the door panels are different, so really, you'll have to change most of your interior as nothing will match unless you're retrimming - you'd need to cut holes for steering column, clutch master and brake master on the other side. - new brake lines - Weld in a new battery tray - new steering rack - engine wiring harness goes into the car at a different spot more cutting, you'll need a 16 bit type loom....however not sure the 2000 model even uses that? - a/c lines are in a different spot more cutting. Quite a lot of work and very involving. I wouldn't tackle it.

Great looking car there. Glad you're getting rid of the wheels. The car itself looks really tidy and sapphire blue pearl is a gorgeous colour. 99 rear lights and a new perspex strip would sharpen the back up a little. Other than that, really nice.

I wouldn't use fibreglass. The arches and arch lips are a structural part of the car. A, you're likely to get flex and it'll crack B, it'll affect the car's overall stiffness. Z32s are big heavy cars with plenty of potential stress points.

Why don't you just find one that someone's breaking one and cut the arches out of that? Personally wouldn't use ones from another car as the rear arches are a certain shape/design. There's a small ridge that runs round the arch also. Nothing stopping you doing it of course and in practice there's nothing wrong with it, but it wouldn't look right with another car's arches on it. A good panel beater will be able to re-create it though. Are your inner wings rotten?

Dude, he found his problem. lol :)

There are quite a number of low mileage Z32s in the US. Some where bought for private car collections (can't imagine any where over here). You'll see them pop up from time to time over there. There was a Twin Turbo on US ebay a while ago with similar mileage.

It's about as attractive as Jo Brand in a swimsuit. It's rancid and flabby!