Funkysi

All configurations are available. Eibach and H&R make both sizes in both configurations.

You said you wanted 20mm ones in your previous thread. Look for Eibach or H&R bolt-on hubcentrics. Application generally is 350z as they use the same centre-bore and PCD. Just google them, I am sure you can do that. :) You need THESE NOT these for your application....

If you're fitting 20mm spacers, don't go the extended stud route, you're creating more work for yourself and I personally wouldn't want studs that long on my car. I only went extended stud because I went for 10mm hubcentrics as you can't get bolt-on versions in anything less than 15mm. There is no point wasting your time doing that, you really need to go for these.

You don't need to press anything out. You do need to take the back plate to get those off which means removing the disk. I have Nismo rear studs on mine. Wheel off, caliper off, disk off, back plate off. Beat the old ones out and tap in the new ones. Then use a nut and washer to pull the stud through so that the stud looks into the hub.

You're talking about re-banding? Generally, I'd avoid doing it on OEM wheels as they're cast. Welding up a crack is on the cusp really, but re-banding will weaken the material around the point at which it is welded. I think it's actually illegal which is why it's not done over here. I know some folks in the US do it, but I personally wouldn't. One thing I've ALWAYS wanted to see done however....and 'Image' wheels might be able to do this is to use the stock Z32 wheel, machine the rims off and use the face as a custom split rim. I'd probably use front Z32 wheels, so you can get a nice aggressive dish at the rear. A lot of 2 and 3 piece wheels use cast centres with forged rims.

My licence reads like a shopping list. Thankfully though, I have none that are valid, but for a while, I had far more on there than you really should be able to have to still legally drive!

Depends how much metal needs replacing, quality of job you're after etc. Huge variations depending on just how much needs going and how far you wanna go with it. A small plate could cost you £100. Complete new sills welded both sides, prepared and painted could cost you £500-£750. You'll need sills fabricated by a good panel beater as they're not available amymore. By the sounds of it, your rust sounds extensive, so you may have to dig deep.

Thanks for the ideas chaps. :) If you guys really wanna do this, I am sure we can make it happen.

Hi Richard, can't see that forum.

Thanks Andrew. Hopefully you'll be interested in some of the joint meets, maybe even an RR or something. Would be great to have a big SC, SE and SW meet somewhere like Beaulieu.

Thanks dude. I've now outlined some plans for next year. Hopefully we'll be able to achieve some of them.

Hi all. I've put a few thoughts down for regional and joint events now that I've taken over running this area. Proposals are: Quarterly meetings/bi-monthly meetings. It's been proven that maintaining healthy numbers on regularly monthly meetings is something that just doesn't happen. Having a quarterly or possibly bi-monthly meeting would hopefully keep the interest going if was also coupled with something that wouldn't 'just' be a meet at a pub somewhere one Sunday afternoon. Nothing wrong with this, but there are plenty of things that happen in the year that members could be part of - such as a meet at the Haynes Museum as part of their 'rare breeds' days etc. I'll actively push joint meetings with other regions such as the Welsh guys and South Central lot as these seem to generate more interest and also other Z clubs - maybe corroboration with Zclub members and/or 350 owners clubs. As Z32 ownership dwindles, it's great to be able to boost attendances by joining forces - just like they do in the US. I'd like to base meets on possible local events, activities and member suggestions. If anyone has any other further suggestions, even if you're from other regions, please shout out, or forever be silent! :) Ideas for days out/events - Karting Beaulieu Motor Museum with the SC crew Photography day - have your car professionally photographed Dyno day Joint visit to somewhere picturesque like the Gower with the Welsh boys

Well I won't be needing to invite you then! :p

December 6th 2014 - 7pm

Please note, these do not include dogging, farting competitions or cheese rolling.

Thanks guys! I have a few ideas to jazz things up a little. I will put a 'plan' together on potential activities for next year before the end of the year. :)

I am sure an announcement of some sort will come out soon as to who and how the area will be managed. :)

;)

Last I heard, hot tubs weighed half a ton, don't have badgers, avian wildlife and dog turds hurled at it. lol.

Noted - go for it as discussed! :)

Fibreglass makes my skin crawl. I can cope with fibreglass spoilers and that's about it. A fibreglass front bumper is like a chocolate fireguard. lol

Pretty sure Zcentre or MJP would have them in UK stock? 99-spoiler works well with some cars and others not so well. It's not my favourite as that's near impossible to get hold of. I do like the pedestal ones too. One of my friend's in San Diego has that setup with 99-skirts (or rather 'did'), he's gone over to 99-rear spoiler. I prefer it with the 99 spoiler, but both look just as good. Not a fan of his mirrors or seats, but the car is pretty awesome. The body has over 200k miles on it! There are also some very cheap and nasty 99-spec spoiler copies too which are moulds taken from copied versions and they just look strange from some angles. Mine is taken from an original. 2+2s REALLY need something on the boot lid as when they're smooth, they just look saggy and frumpy. I rode round in mine with no spoiler and ended up hating its appearance.

It means it 'could' have distorted the bumper. PU bumpers are very flexible and have a relatively low melt point. Trial fit it though. It might be ok. They are quite heavy, so if it has gotten hot enough for it to 'flop', it has a high chancee that the plastic has been stretched, especially if there's no metal bracing/support bar.

You need plasticizer in the paint itself. Adhesion promoter only sits on the surface of the substrate you're painting on.

What temperature did he set the oven at? If you're spraying plastics, I'd personally either want them air dried or put in a slow lower temperature bake. Has he used plasticizer in the paint when doing the bumpers? If there's a lack of that, then sure, they have a higher risk of cracking, especially as Z32 bumpers are flimsy.