Funkysi

Click on 'settings' on the right hand task bar. Once page has loaded, look on the left hand side menu, if you scroll to the bottom, under the 'my account' tab, you'll see 'subscription' or 'paid subscription'.

Don't discount early ones! Just make sure you can find the cleanest, tidiest one you can. Seen plenty of dogs from all model years, so your selection really should be limited to condition and engine/trans.

Clevite are top quality. As good, if not better than ACL. Since ACL have gone pop, Clevite are the only ones to go for.

Because it's my homage to you of course. :)

What have overspray on them? The coilovers? Yeah ok, sure thing. :)

TBH, I think the Zeta-S versions have a lower poundage rate than the Tein S-techs and would actually offer a more comfortable ride. Tein springs are pretty hard and best suited for the track. If I did get the Meister-R, I'd have to powercoat EVERYTHING black. Red springs and strut tops - yuk! lol I am not in a hurry for them as I won't be taxing it for the summer until April, so whenever you get a chance. :)

I don't like OEM stuff 'that' much. Overall appearance and design cues of the exterior and interior, yes, but mechanical components, I am happy to upgrade and I have considered MeisterRs actually. But not yet, I want to do a few other things first. I spent quite a lot on the Tein springs and KYB shocks and not sure I want to ditch them so soon. Appreciate the gesture too, I'd love to have them. I'll take a good look at them for sure. - - - Updated - - - ....PS...the second one down, ie the insulator is handed.

....actually drove quite close to there on my Z road trip in September.

That's a shame, if it were Normandy or Brittany, I'd taken them over for you as I go there 3 or 4 times a year with either car.

I have what I think is a shagged strut top - this being the rubber/metal composite mount between the strut support and the shock. I get like a mild squelch noise over rough ground, so assume rubber deterioration. There are a number of parts it consists of. If anyone has had theirs go, what parts did you find had failed/weakened? I think it's either this, the strut top : Or this, the insulator:

Where in France?

Table cloth? It's a bloody dish cloth and it's my kitchen!! :lol: My table has no 'cloth' on as it's glass.

My job for the morrow! Fit AndrewG's nice little amp; looking forward to seeing how it'll make it all sound! :)

Your grammar sucks dude! :p

A bit of an old wives' tale that came about by the restrictions of tuning. Ideally you do want to fit forged pistons at that stage as your engine would be coming out for new turbos for getting that sort of power and it makes sense and it does give you added piece of mind and added reliability as there are times were pump fuel isn't up to par, but the stock block can take quite a bit providing you have the supporting modifications, so that's breathing and fuelling. Melted pistons in most cases come from the fuelling, or lack of, which lead to detonation. A forged engine will melt if the fuelling is all to cock. It can take a little more as the pistons are more dense and can absorb heat better than cast material, but the principles are essentually the same. The reasons we do see 'melted pistons' are because of inadequate tuning/maintenance in almost all cases. The stock turbos have a limit, but you can wind those up to about 17/18 PSi with no problems. Fit larger injectors, a good and well set up boost controller, fully mapped chip and all the breathing modifications and it'll be reliable providing you started off with a good lump before hand. A worn lump, the wear will accelerate. A good lump that's well maintained and it'll be fine. The real restrictions are not really the block but the breathing and fuelling peripherals that Nissan used at manufacture, so that's intake size, injectors and intercoolers. The turbos, block and heads are all pretty good and rather strong. Avoiding detonation is key and this is done from creating the lowest charge temperature you can coupled with the optimum fuelling/timing.

Not really Lee. They just know how to tune their cars. Noel has now unlocked the potential that has starved the gains these cars can make on stock management as most people, including myself have been running around on generic chips with basic mapping. Most generic chips in their most basic of forms have been around for YEARS and only minor tweaks were ever made to increase fuel and adjust basic safety seconds. Noel works with more parameters and as has been seen, tuning to the individual cars is where the best gains are made. It's all about having a good condition block and turbos and more importantly, the correct mapping. I am quite pally with Charles Park who owns Powertrix in San Diego and when I was last his he showed me his stock-block Z. His high HP figures are backed up by very good 1/4 mile times. Unfortunately a lot of Z32s have been poorly maintained and poorly modified which is generally why a build is suggested and I generally would say that's what you want to do if you don't know the history of the car. A stock block and heads are actually highly underrated and can take quite an increase in power given the correct fuelling and breathing mods.

Good! Even more reason NOT to have them then! Suits me! I am sure I must be shooting blanks though!.....or I have millions of babies I don't know about!

:bow: I have no interest in babies either! I recently became an Uncle (for the first time) - really doesn't float my boat having an ankle biter!

Oh dear, so sad to see. For one of the more extreme looking cars, it looked pretty good. It looks like it 'could' be repairable, but the front end will need jigging, straightening out of the inner wing and a new cross member/headlight buckets + slam panel. The screen hasn't gone, so looks like it hasn't gone any further than the inner arch. You walked away from it though!! :) This is why I don't drive my Z on slimy winter roads.

Looks like its name has changed. I had a look on google and it's the same one off the 210 freeway, but it's back to being a regular Nissan dealership now. Shame as it was a pretty awesome place and I knew a couple of the guys there, I got a discount and because I am always over in CA, I just brought it back with me. Courtesy Nissan sell this for $71 which is about £45. Shipping will cost about $30 (about £20) I reckon and you'll pay the regular tax and duty - should come in around the £80 mark landed at a guess. Not too sure what MJP supply it for. http://www.courtesyparts.com/32865-shift-knob-manual-trans-300zx-z32-1990-1996-p-40234.html?cPath=882&

That's Kingswood, bit of a bitch to get to from my place. If I have some time, I might be able to, but next week and the week after I'm away for a lot of it, then I'm off to Germany for a week. Let me know what your time scale is.

Depends where they are - I am not sure I'll be able to help for a while as I am mega busy at the moment and my garage is already filled with a friend's junk AND my Z whilst they move.

No I wouldn't know as I've NEVER owned a pair of Nike Air Max in my life, nor would I wish to. I have also never owned a tracksuit (sports gear for gym, but that's it), a burberry baseball cap, anything made by Kappa or medallion rings....but I get what you mean! lol :)

Indeed. No disrespect to anyone that has them, but I always got embarrassed having a HUGE speaker sat in one corner of my boot whenever I opened it to load it and covered it with a coat when I was on the ferry to St.Malo last year before going to my cabin, not because I was worried it would get pinched, but because I didn't want to be seen as having one in my car! :lol: I know sod-all about car audio and at the time figured it was the only way to make my system sound any good and to all intents and purposes, it gave me some nice bass, but the rest still sounded like turd! I don't want or need thumping bass, I just want what my Leon sounds like, nice, crisp and clear with good mid-range and fairly loud when you crank it up. I don't want or need number plate rattling bass, or burst ear drums or even to attend sound-offs! My aim is to make the 4 speaker system sound GOOD! Thanks to AndrewG, I have a really neat looking little amp that will hopefully give my speakers some more depth and a little more volume!

Took all the rear interior out of my Z to remove all the old sub wiring. Moved it all to the front, removed the 2 meter long RCA lead, refitted interior! Bye bye last of the sub stuff - my boot can return to a state of normality and I can now go about beefing up my front speakers! :)