Funkysi

Awesome! I'll go and speak to them! :lol:

In answer to some of your other questions • What are the major issues to look out for? Rust (wheel arches, floor pan, front suspension turrets, inner rear arches, front cross member, chassis rails and sills - main issue now) - smokey turbos, worn pistons and tired suspension, especially bushings and joints. • How cheap can I go before I'll be buying a pup? - that really is a can o' worms. I've seen utter sheds advertised at crazy money, yet seen clean honest stock cars for what I'd consider as peanuts. That's a hard one to quantify. A very clean manual TT can be had between £4k-£6k. • Are there any specialist parts suppliers/breakers I should know about? Not so much in the UK, generally most people go via Z1 Motorsports, Concept Z, Speciality Z all in the US. We have UK suppliers of OEM parts - MJP is a good one. There's also Driftworks if you're wanting to go minimalist and track orientated on the suspension arms etc. In terms of engine builds, servicing and all other engineering related work, PowerZed in Bristol are certainly top notch. Jim's been maintaining my car since I bought it over 10 years ago and he built the engine and is responsible for the vast majority of high HP builds in recent years. • Is the standard diff LSD? Yes, but a Quaife differential is also available and makes a huge difference on higher HP cars. In the US earlier this year, I drove a 650whp Z without a Quaife and a 900whp 200mph Z32 with a Quaife (one after another) and the 900hp Z, despite the difference in power delivery could handle it so much better. I highly rate the Quaife differential on the Z32.

The issue with the auto-box is, despite it's adequacies, they disengage on rundown (quite an old design). I just think for what you need the car for, the autobox is very limiting even if you do make up a paddle shift systems. A manual box is the way to go if you are drifting and tracking it. Get a good competition clutch (and to be honest, they're not too bad on cost) and you'll be fine. Stock clutches are fine until you start a abusing them, even on increased power. In terms of values - general market has increased slowly - not so much in auto and/or NA models. Good quality TT manual examples are commanding a higher premium than they were. You'll invest far more in maintenance and parts than you ever will in the appreciation value though. They did reach the bottom of their depreciation curve some 5-7 years ago.

Dean, would you know anyone in the trade who might have an old one like Andrew's?

Lucky bugger Andrew! I've been after one too!

Works now - thanks Jeff! :)

Not sure the images are working Jeff?

:lol:

Happy birthday for yesterday - hope you make your first post one day...... :lol:

No, just no one lives down there apart from you. :lol: ;)

Greetings! I used to live in Portsmouth, well Southsea just after I came out of Uni. Quite fond of it down there actually. Good luck with the hunt! Can I ask why you're interested in an auto for drifting and track days? I could see the point in having one for 1/4 mile runs, but not really for track action. They're not the quickest shifting box in the world. I believe HKS do or rather 'did' a paddle shift race box for the Z32, I can't remember much else, you might want to contact AndrewG, as he'd know. The cost was astronomical though.

Very nice Russ - IMO, this shape of A4 is still their nicest yet!

Just means they've had 360 degree bearings fitted. They're probably stock turbos in that case and a high probability they're the auto ones if yours was originally automatic. Auto turbos are 0.54a/r (that's the housing size I believe) and will have 686 on housing, manual turbos are 0.63a/r and have 687 on the housing. Essentially they are the same except the auto, as previously said spools a little quicker, but it runs out of puff a little sooner.

http://bde-performance.com/goose.htm Auto turbos are slightly smaller, but give slighter better response than manual turbos. Horses for courses.

They're manufactured by Rays, so the widths should be stamped on the back of the hub face or one of the spokes on the inside. Imagine they are 8" in which case, I wouldn't go any wider the 245, in fact on an 8", I'd probably shoot for a 235. 45 profile is waayyy too tall. 40 is borderline. When I selected the tyres for my Z, I actually went for equal profiles and it looks more balanced. I was running 35 front and 30 rear, but now I just run 30 all round. I'd suggest keeping tyre sizes the same since your wheels are equal widths on all 4 corners. I'd either fit 235 35 18 all round or, at a push, 245 35 18.

What widths are those 350z wheels and what are the offsets? I didn't think those wheels themselves are staggered?

That's 'cause he asked the question AGAIN. :confused:

Stock turbos are relatively small and run a low boost pressure. Adding a large cone filter and turning the boost up helps. You are limited with an auto for noise as dump valves won't work during gear change and you also won't hear any wastegate chatter. Fitting larger turbos will make the most noticeable difference in terms of turbo whistle. The turbos on a VG are hidden deep inside the bowels of the engine bay at the end of long intake runners, so they are fairly smothered in terms of noise.

A: BOVs won't make the turbos sound louder, won't do anything for performance, don't really do much anyway. B: Your car is an auto and you won't hear them unless you come off the accelerator - a chocolate tea pot serves a better purpose. BOVs / DVs / Dump valves / all the same thing.

Forget regular insurance companies on old cars. Specialist brokers always offer the best deals. I am sure you'll get a decent quote. I pay around £300 a year.

At least he didn't call you Peekachu! (Pikachu):lol: :rofl: :wack:

I'm not a tree hugger, that's for sure! :lol: I nearly went to Strode College. I love Somerset, the pace of life is perfect, everyone's friendly and there's lots of wide open spaces and empty roads - it was an awesome place to grow up in as a kid.

First post! Welcome to the forum. I have my insurance with Lynbrook, costs me peanuts and you should get yours on a classic policy no problem. http://www.lynbrookins.co.uk/80480/info.php?p=6

Very cool! I hope you're going to restore it to how it was when that magazine was printed!

Bwhahahahahaha hahahahaah! :rofl: :lol: