Funkysi

£100....so I 'could' live without. It's listed as being 'grade 4'. Which apparently means it's very very tidy. It has low milage and is EXACTLY what I am looking for.

Knocking him down?? Dude, his priced should be knocked up. That's cheap for an SWB!!

Well, I am probably going to gamble a holding deposit on this one tomorrow....kinda scared...

erh?? Where is it?

PMSL! Best mate lives in Bilgewater near Puriton...how come I've NEVER seen you car... I'll have to miss JAE...pretty gutted, would like to go. Right, well more than likely going to wack a holding deposit on this as a bit of a gamble. Would you be interested in coming along to Slough next week with me and helping me check the car over? Get get any 'nasties' fixed then if there is anything wrong with it.

Dag namit!! What shall I do chaps? It's a grade 4 import, low milage, will have 3 months warranty.....do I go and wack a deposit down now?? EEEEEEEEK Help help help.

So basically you'll want it looking something like this? SCRUMMY!!! :) So are you using leather?

By what I've read on here....chunk and Macca are either very large citizens or have huge apetites....or both?

Legrath, where abouts in Somerset are you? Would very much like to come and have a look round your zed...

I'm aware of that, just seems odd to advertise when it's not going to be in the country for another month (his words). That example is stunning and low milage. I'd go and grab a zedder from here and have a butchers at it this weekend if it was in the country...grrrrr what to do, what to do.

LOL Thanks guys. Cheers for the link as well Pete.

http://atsearch.autotrader.co.uk/www/cars_search.asp?page=1&modelexact=1&lid=search_used_cars_full&make=NISSAN&model=300+ZX&min_pr=4000&max_pr=5000&mileage=&agerange=&postcode=ba6+8ae&miles=1500&max_records=50&source=0&photo=1&sort=3&ukcarsearch_full=SEARCH I hate autotrader website....can never work out to get the URL from an individual advert. Anyway, just called this chap (white one at the bottom of the page, 18's etc). Bloke didn't even know the car I was talking about...then he said I needed to speak to his brother....then he told me the car wasn't even in the country yet!! Sounds dodgy?

Does anyone have any that they have uploaded? Please share with me on this thread. :)

Silver's difficult to blend it. Solid colours aren't too bad. Baring in mind you'll be using cellulose paint and not 2k. It won't be easy for a first timer. Basically, you'll need to flat the area back around the scrapes, you'll need to remove any low spots in the paint and feather it back really. Any bare plastic will need to be primed and then that feathered back. If you've been waxing your car (and it's a good idea to do this anyway) then get some degreaser wipes after flatting back. This will get rid of any silicone deposits which are contained in most waxes/polishes. Nasty stuff and will cause the paint to bubble and blister. You'll need a combination of papers, I'd say 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 grit really if you want to spend your time making it look nice. So really you want to do it something like this (don't take it as gospel as I am not a car body repairer), remove any digs in the bumper, if you can feather it out first using a 400 grit, then 800 and to smooth off use a 1000. Fill any bad digs and repeat the process. Then lightly prime the bare areas, before flatting back. You can use this as a mild filler if you build up layers and continue to flat back . You can then see how the base surface is. Once area is super smooth, you can apply base coat silver. very very lightly dust it on, making sure you use even sweeps in ALL directions. Metallic particles fall at very different angles, so it's good to get these catered for. You don't want any dark spots/light spots. No need to rub this back, once you've left it to dry for an hour, you can apply some lacquer. Again light dustings, but build up a very good thickness of it. Do not worry about finish. It's better for it to look mat, than it is to have runs. You get shine when you finish off and I'll explain that in a minute. Anyway, leave the area to dry for a day, you are then ready to finish off. To finish off, use 1000 grit (wet) and lightly rub down the new paint work and the old paintwork around the surrounding fresh lacquer. You do this to get rid of the glaze and any orange peel effect you have on the lacquer. It also blends it into the old paint. Once you've done this, do the same with the 1200 grit to get it super smooth. If you look at the area, it should be an equal dullness all over, indicating removal of low lying paint areas and haze. Now the area will be matt in appearance, you then need to cut it back using a cutting compound such as G3. It's mildly abrasive and will remove any fine scratches that the paper has given it. You need to be fairly abrasive in your usage of this. Give it a few goes over and wipe off. Now you've still not achieved shine, but don't worry, it's time to polish. You can use any 'good' polish really. I used Autoglym, again you need to be quite abrasive in your actions when using this. You may need to go over the area several times before you achieve a glassy finish. That's about it really. That was quite a basic run through. But I'd be wary about doing silver. Unless you get a spot on colour match, it will look patchy. The paint on your car will be quite old and both finish and colour will be difficult to blend. Experienced bodyshops with good equipment can get a good colour match and use a much better quality of paint. Might be worth while just seeing how much a semi decent blow over will cost. Also, bending in of paintwork can be tricky. It's relatively easy to do small complete items, such as wheels, mirror housings and what-not. Because if you cock those up, you can just do them again.

Totally agree with Gareth on that one. I've bought Halfrauds spray ages ago for something else and found the paint to be of poor quality and the match....well, there isn't one really.

Easy if you take your time. I got these ropey looking mirrors housings on my old runabout Cavalier back to looking new again. :)

.... Looks like Sid the Sloth...

I don't love mine as I don't have it yet.....not long now....I hope. :)

*cope with 14 PSi....my grammar today is appalling.

That is cheap. What can you take them up to and are do those have a fixed map or not? Any setting up? Please excuse for the newbie type questions. :) So a reasonable figure with a decent chip would be circa 13PSi? Intercooler seems decent then as said above, should come with 14.

What can you increase the boost to without the fitment of a different map/chip?

Thanks Jeff.

How does drive disengage? I mean the bottom end and top end still have momentum. So surely valves will touch regardless of whether the engine is stuck in gear or not. Sorry, just wondering. :)

Bodykit's not my cuppa tea, but love the wheels...from what I can see of them and like the colour.