kaned

I foolishly bought a set of those ducts for my godspeed intercoolers, now I don't know how well they fit with a stock bumper, but it with the bomex bumper I have, I ended up hacking them to pieces, and i would have been far better designing from scratch. I though it would save me time. Lesson learned

Mine has been smoking on deceleration for a little while now, only if I allow engine braking from 2500 rpm down to 2000rpm. Again, a good compression test, and OK turbos. Ive learned to drive around it and not allow it to decelerate between those rpms. It point itself to valve stem seals. Driving on track is fine because its rare the revs are ever that low.

I would say the car feels more spritely and happy to rev, undoubtedly a more exciting drive. Because of the rotational mass, the car feels far more than 15kg lighter now I'd love to see before and after dyno runs, as I'm sure we all would. But I don't have a local friendly dyno shop!

Here's a few pictures showing old and new! See the surface cracks on the flywheel surface too!

Hi all, I thought I would put a post up describing my thoughts on the recent work I have carried out on my car. It all started with a slipping clutch, which was inivitable as the previous owner had suggested I replace it because it had slipped with him... It lasted nearly 2 more years including 5 track days before it gave up the ghost, so it did itself proud. I did some research into what clutch I should go for, and what else I should do while I had the car on ramps, I generally daily drive the car, as well as track days, so it needed to be something strong but not too snappy. Noel (noz) kindly sourced the stage 2 competition clutch for me, and I went for an ultra light weight flywheel while I was at it. I also ordered an unerdrive pulley from z1, along with the overdrive water pump pulley. While I had the prop off to drop the transmission, I sent it off to jimmer at Powerzed to be turned into one piece unit. Now reading about this subject all over the Z forums, it seems there is a huge discussion about these light weight parts, and some seem to think it will make the car as undrivable as an F1 car, and that it will idle like a pig. I would like to dispell these myths with my experience. In total, more than 15 kg was taken off of the drivtrain weight The original crankshaft pulley weighed 6kg and the underdrive pulley weighs just 700g The original flywheel weighed 10kg, the CC ultra light weight unit weighs just 5kg The original 2 piece prop weighed 15kg, and the one piece unit now weighs 10kg The car is completely drivable, even with the new clutch 'biting' a little harder than my old worn out one as expected, and the revs pick up noticably quicker. All of this was achieved on axle stands outside my house, my first clutch change! Cheers for reading, and cheers to Noz and Jimmer for their advice

I made a rippled mess of my arches when I had a go, but the wheels fit now... Function over form?

Does anyone have times I've the Z session? I know there's been a delay in track passes, so we're picking them up on the morning I believe!

While we're in the topic... My car seems to stay in safety it's safety map/boost for the first drive drive of the day, if I cycle the ignition, it runs properly. Is it only the dett sensor and the temp sensor that can cause it to drop into safety map? I'll be bypassing the dett sensor to rule it out shortly...

Double post!

If it's the older square type of injector connector, there is a metal clip that has to be removed first. From the Middle of the engine, you can get a screwdriver on the end of the metal prongs, and push the clip off the back of the connector. It's the same style connector as the water temp sensor in the pipe on the front of the timing belt cover (might be yellow) have a look at that one and you'll understand the design I use a magnetic pickup tool to catch the clip as it comes off to stop it dropping in to the depths of the engine. Then just refit the clip before you push the connector down. Hope this makes sense. I think the newer style connector did away with the metal clip, and you have to squeeze the catch in to release it.

I bought some subframe locking collars to remedy this. Had them fitted in about an hour, and the alignment seems to be better, and the axle hop I used to have had completely gone, which Is a nice bonus! Not bad the grand cost of £21

An injector change turned into: Plenum pull, Two replaced injectors Plenum water bypass Egr delete Aiv solenoid removal (a previous owner had kindly removed half of it already) PRVR delete Cruise control removed Injector connectors replaced So it's all back together, as is typical with me, i had a track day on Saturday, and got the engine assembled at 11 pm on Friday night! Apart from a misfire from a loose coil pack connection, the car performed perfectly. Was a little miffed that some parts hadnt arrived, so we had to make some EGR blanking plates up, and reuse the plenum gasket, use some fuel hose for water pipe. Overall, very happy. Thanks all for your help throughout the plenum pull!

This was the state of the injectors, and the connectors were as bad, it's no wonder you end up with issues.

The cruise control wires dissappear in to the wheel arch by the looks of it? I wouldn't know where they connect. I got the Injector connectors from eBay America. I think it was Yugo Bernie? He seems to be a well known figure on the American forums from searching posts. Worked out at £28 to my door

Of all the stuff I've removed, the cruise control Is the bit ill keep in case I want to reinstate it! Sorry Joely! Just started on the Injector connectors

And who needs cruise control!

There won't be much left of this engine bay soon... Just went to do the Aiv delete, and someone has kindly done it for me but left the solenoid in the engine bay. Not wanting to disappoint myself, I removed the PRVR.

Got it!

I think I've been a massive idiot. It's the pcv valve outlet. Ignore me! :)

On to the next problem for now... I have one pipe that isn't accounted for, I can't seem to find any mention of it in tutorials? It runs the length of the back of the engine and into here. Is it right that this is left unused after the upper plenum bypass? Doesn't seem right to me. I really appreciate all your help so far!

This is how tight mine looks

Juts taken the battery out and I can see it, but still cant see it coming out in situ

Krikey Ive just managed to feel my way to the exhaut point, there's no way you can get to that with the engine In place is there?

So it's only attached on the passenger side exhaust manifold?

I've just bought a egr delete kit from z centre along with the plenum gasket. I've previously changed 3 injectors using the dremel method, but with 2 injectors down, I thought I would bite the bullet and go for the plenum pull. I haven't looked under the car yet to check, but as I have a full exhaust system from downpipes back with no cats, will the Egr even be connected any more?