kaned

So results from plugging the laptop in: No code 34, resistor is still firmly in place. I did notice the TPS only gets a maximum of 4.04V. Should I adjust the throttle linkage stop so it can make it closer to 5V? Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

Just thinking out loud, I'm going to check the det sensor bypass resistor, to check it hasn't been come loose. The car doesn't have safety boost solenoids, but the timing and fueling would be pulled back if it had, possibly effecting boost? Will plug int to Datascan to check also. It's a theory... I'm probably wrong

The engine pull: The car has had an annoying exhaust rattle for over 1.5 years, like a loose bolt sound. I'd had the exhaust off a number of times to try and diagnose it, but could never find it. I had one last idea that it could be the wastegate flapper inside the turbo not shutting fully, allowing it to rattle and echo down the exhaust. I wasn't wrong. The pivot between the wastegate actuator and the flapper was seized completely on the Right hand turbo just enough for the flapper to rattle, and there's nothing that could be done about it while the engine was in the car, there is no access to any part of it without pulling the engine. I managed the pull in 5 hours on my own and I was exhausted! Earned a few beers that evening! Jobs performed were: The wastegate pivot hole was drilled out from 6mm-6.1mm and it moved perfectly. I did this on both turbos as a precaution, the LH wastegate pivot was tight but not fully seized. Changed the cam seals again to try and solve the leak behind the VTC gears, but it seems to be the gears themselves, so I will live with the small leak until the full engine rebuild happens A friend kindly helped clean up all the filthy engine parts and rebuilt the power steering pump with new seals, so there's no more leaks making a mess over the alternator Made some new engine ground cables and tidied a few connectors in the engine bay Replaced the engine mounts with Hardrace pieces as one had torn in half I was going to reuse the 3 year old timing belt as it looked fine, until I was about to refit it and saw daylight through it! It seems a piece of debris has been catching a ride around the timing belt, as there's small marks around the rollers in the same position as the hole. I'm lucky there wasn't more damage to the pulleys, or even a snapped belt. Dodged a bullet there! I changed the Diff oil and rear handbrake shoes and some more worn out suspension rose joints. The engine went back in fairly easily, the hardest bit is always getting the gearbox lined up while laying on the floor under the car. On testing the engine, it only seems to be able to make 17psi of boost, while it had always made 19psi. I'm all out of ideas after boost leak tests and wastegate checks. I'm going to check that the wastegates aren't pushing open from exhaust gas, as even without the wastegates plumbed in, 17psi is the maximum it will reach. I've also treated it to a new set of Michelin PS4's

A few pictures added to the original post

I'll get signed back up, had forgotten that had lapsed!

Aww, shucks, you're making me blush! I had hoped to edit the post with some pictures, but it's not showing me an option to edit?

Hi All, I've decided I want to start documenting more of the journey with my 300zx, I've called it the No-name 300zx project, because I've never given the car a name other than 'The Nissan'. First of all, a little history: 2013 I've owned the car since mid 2013, the only mods were different wheels and a Nistune ECU and map My first bonding experience with the car was when the starter motor decided to detach itself from the gearbox a couple of days in to ownership. A small job of drilling and tapping the stripped hole from m10 to m12, and a replacement bolt solved that easily. The slippery modification slope began a few months in to ownership. MeisterR suspension fitted, the handling was much improved. Adjustable camber arms, tension rods, Hicas removal, Whiteline anti roll bars, drop links and an exhaust with an X pipe soon followed. 2014 In 2014, the car did its first track days at Goodwood and Brands Hatch. At Brands hatch, the clutch started slipping, and so a competition cluch and ultra lightweight flywheel were chosen as replacements. At the same time, I installed lightweight underdrive pulleys and a single piece prop shaft. The weight that was removed from the drive-train made a huge difference to the engine, it revved much more freely and transformed the drive once again. With more track days in mind, mods such as bucket seats, strut braces and brake upgrades came with the territory. Evo 8 calipers and after a number of poor pad choices, Pagid RS29 (now RSL29) are now my go-to pad of choice. 2015 Nurburgring and the clutch. again. I took a trip to the Nurburgring with my Dad, and had an unforgettable trip for many reasons. On the drive home, first gear was getting harder to select, and by the time we pulled up on the driveway, the clutch wouldn't release. Very lucky!. Another gearbox pull, and an upgraded 350z clutch fork later and the problem was solved. Fast forward to October. BEST TRACK DAY EVER - After a full day of flawless lapping at Goodwood, and a quiet afternoon allowing 3 back-to-back 15 minute sessions, one of the turbos let itself go. I still went home grinning, knowing that the car had started to perform how I had hoped, and that it was time for upgrades. Queue my first engine pull, on the sloped, uneven driveway at my parents house. The turbos were removed and taken for a hybrid rebuild, and I performed all the remaining deletes to simplify the engine bay. Removed a few buckets full of wiring and plumbing that was no longer needed, and tidied and cleaned anything I could. 555cc injectors were ordered from the sketchiest retailer I could find. Changed the gearbox oil. 2016 Engine back in the car, and a map saw 494hp in February. By the end of Feb, one of the turbos was starved of oil and seized. Thankfully it was the left turbo, that can be removed in about 2 hours with the engine still in place, so I rebuilt it in my shed with a service kit bought from ebay. It's still going strong now. In April, my Dad had a 'meeting' with a tyre wall at Goodwood, with me in the passenger seat. We both walked away fine relationship still intact. I replaced and repaired the panels that were damaged, and then vinyl wrapped it in light satin blue. The wrap has covered most of its scars and gave it a new lease of life. I had only intended and expected the wrap to last for a year or so, but it is still holding up over 2.5 years later. Fitted Michelin Pilot sport 4s for the first time, if you need a recommendation of tyre choice for road and the odd track day, that's it. 2017 2017 was spent saving for a house and so was relatively uneventful for the car, I think I did one Goodwood track day. Dad and I purchased a Westfield, which is a completely different animal, and much cheaper on consumables. But nothing beats the feel of The Nissan when it's on top form. 2018 A flawless track day in Feb at Brands Hatch was the first outing of the year. We had both the Westfield and Nissan on track at the same time, allowing us to swap between cars meant you had to re-calibrate your brain for each session. Another Goodwood afternoon track day started to show that some of the suspension components fitted with rose joints were in need of some TLC and so replacement rod ends were ordered from Mcgill motorsport and fitted, reducing creaks and knocks drastically. Additionally, the car's idle was getting progressively rougher. It sounded like an aggressively 'cammed' v8. Which is cool if it is a cammed V8, but not so much if it's a V6. Late 2018, friends and I found a garage unit to rent, which would allow dry storage and working on the cars. I'd never had this luxury before, and it makes such a difference to be able to work on the car whatever the weather or time of day. Until this point, everything had been done to the car on my parents wonky driveway. The unit is a time machine - you 'pop over' to drop something off and leave 6 hours later. The idle got progressively worse, to the point where it could barely keep itself alive, but up in the higher rev range, it still ran like a dream. For Christmas, I treated myself to a new MAF and Series 2 PTU with new plugs. fitting these and new coil pack connectors bought the engine back to it's former glory. My guess is the culprit was the MAF, but all of the new connectors must have made a difference considering the poor state of the originals. 2019 This brings us up to the present day, where I will try and update this thread with the work, findings and adventures of The Nissan. It begins with pulling the engine again because of a small rattle that could have caused a big problem. Thanks for reading

Hi all, I've had the engine back out of the car recently due to a stuck wastegate pivot on the RH Turbo. Problem fixed and both wastegates were balanced to 7.5psi when refitted. Before the engine pull, It would hold 19psi of boost (as tuned) this is with a manual boost controller, which I know was controlling the boost, because on a very cold day boost would reach over 20psi, and I would have to turn the boost down a fraction. After freeing up both wastegates, I seem to not be able to reach more than 17psi, even testing with the wastegate lines unplugged. I've performed a number of boost leak tests, I had found a couple of tiny leaks, fixed where possible, but nothing major. I know when the turbos were freshly rebuilt with new wastegates, it could hold 19psi. Question: How likely is it that the wastegates are being pushed open by exhaust gas now, only allowing 17psi of boost pressure? Should the cracking pressure be set higher than 7.5psi? I will also say, the engine is very much as simple as it can be, there's no safety boost solenoids, so the only thing in the equation is a hose to the MBC, and a tee from the MBC to each wastegate. I've also checked out the re-circulation valves with a compressor, and they hold pressure well. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Kane

I think these are them? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132962401177

So this problem is now solved! I treated myself to a series 2 PTU and a brand new MAF from Z1, and the idle is better than it has been for at least a year. I think the main issue was the MAF, but the PTU is a nice preventative thing. I soldered in a set of new coil pack connectors which has also Solved the wiggly connector intermittent cylinders. Fuel economy is back to what is was too, winning all round! Still running very low compression on cylinder 5, but we'll soldier that on for a little while and enjoy the ride... - - - Updated - - - It'll even idle down at 750-800 rpm, which it hasn't done for ever!

Hi all, after a few bits to swap out while fault finding the sick car. I need: Series 2 PTU with pigtails Throttle position sensor MAF Let me know what you have. Thanks!

The plan is to pull the engine and refit myself. It would be nice to determine the cause, if the low compression isn't it, prior to pulling the engine

I'll have another thorough check of all vac lines, and will do a leak test as well. I have a new FPR on the way to rule that out. If cylinder 5 has recently dropped compression all together, could the excessive blow-by be pushing gas back in to the plenum though the PCV valves? I'll experiment this evening with that thought... The engine does breathe heavily though the oil filler cap. I am in talks with Jimmer about an engine rebuild as we speak, so this is all for piece of mind that I don't have an external factor that could cause issues with a rebuilt engine. Thanks for your help again! I'll report back my findings.

Thanks for your thoughts so far, with Nissan data scan I can turn off individual cylinders, but I can't even get it to idle at a high enough rpm without altering the water temp to a minus value at the moment. On boost the car often runs as it should, and pulls well. Low compression on cylinder 5 is at best 70 psi, and had been for a couple of years at least. But not been able to check compression more recently. Yesterday I changed the AICV (Aac) and fitted new connectors to rule out bad connections on that. No change. All injector connectors are perfect, and we definitely have all 6 cylinders further up in the rev range. I have a set of coil pack connectors to change, but there is definitely a change in running when each coil pack is disconnected, suggesting connections are all OK (if a little cracked and broken)

Hi All, been a while since I've posted, new house purchase has done it's best to keep me away! The car lately has been idling terribly and stuttering badly when at low throttle and driving. At mid to full throttle, the car runs as well as it always has. all 6 cylinders run smooth at higher throttle. I know the engine has poor compression on one cylinder and has for quite some time, but I'm hoping to find another cause for the terrible low speed running I've finally got round to getting data scan connected and i'm just learning how to use it. I've attempted to adjust the AAC base idle but the car will still not idle with the screw all the way out. Also swapped the AAC valve for a spare with no change. Throttle position sensor seems to read good readings. (0.4 at no throttle, 4V at full throttle) MAF reading is not so easy to read, but the reading is approx 1.5V at a very rough idle and rises with flow as expected. My thought is that the fuel pressure regulator is shot and is over fuelling at idle, so I'm on the look out for a FPR to swap out, and I'll be making a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure. If I force the water temperature reading to -7 deg C the idle comes higher as it should do and it just about stays alive, but not tried driving like this yet. What effect would this have? Just a high idle, or does the fuelling get adjusted with temperature? Does anyone have any suggestions on what to check with Data Scan or other tools? Any help appreciated!

Don't worry about it cozza, it will be fine without it

Same here, I have been running EVO 8 brembos for the last coupe of years on road and track and not had any balance or ABS issues, only positives!

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Nice little project there, keep it up! Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Hi all, A few more pieces. A pair of stock intercoolers, a bit dusty but no damage. £25 posted Rear strut brace, nice and shiny! £30 posted Original Crank pulley it'll clean up ok. £15 posted Thanks for looking!

Hi all, Having a bit of a clear out of spares. I have a very good condition steering wheel, with cruise control buttons. A couple of very small marks on the leather as pictured. The screw mount on the centre pad had broken off (as shown) but the pad does mount fine without. £55 posted A set of original charcoal floor mats. They do have a couple of pulls in them, but not in areas that are easily seen. £40 posted A boot roller blind cover, good condition, no rips and retracts well, all clips present. £30 posted A couple more bits as I remember: Set of original LWB suspension Front and rear LWB TT anti roll bars I will add more as I find bits! Thanks for looking.

Sorry, the arms I had to cut down, the ends fitted OK!

I had to cut a set of japspeed rods down, I don't know if I was sent the wrong ones but I didn't have time to return them. It wasn't a problem, but did need an inch or so removing to fit

A trip to the ring is a memorable experience. My few words of advice, Be aware of your surroundings of track Drive what you can see, remember some corners go on for longer than you first think and tighten up, so apex corners later rather than earlier. Be aware anything might overtake, and don't be tempted to put up chase, it may well be a 1.9 diesel hatchback, but it may also be a VLN driver on the way to the shops! Don't go out in the first 15 mins after the track opens (in the morning or after a closure). It's completely mental just after opening, so let the nutters go for it first! A little known thing is that you can also arrive and drive the GP track at the ring too, which is well worth ticking off. Treat your car to some 102 octane at Aral fuel station! Drive safe!

Yeah, at a fraction of the cost they're worth a try! I thought I was mad paying the 330 quid for front pads when I bought my pagid rs29, but they were worth the money and have paid for themselves in longevity