antman

Hi, I have an issue which is worrying me at the moment concerning my build with the following major items. Wiseco pistons, eagle rods. cometic HG, Z1 GT675 turbo kit. Had a reputable machine shop do some machining for me and took delivery yesterday for starting the assembly. I asked for the block to rebored to suit my 88mm Wisecos as well as the decking of the block to be trued and finished (AR50) for Cometic (.045"/1.2mm) mls head gaskets. All looked good until I checked to see that I got my original block back by checking the engine numbers and ...well the engine numbers are very feint to gone and worried that too much has been taken off. Any suggestions here? Barring that I have no numbers on the block which will raise law enforcement eye brows. My main concern is with the possible excessive decking, I thought first step would be a trial fit of the bearings, crank, rod and piston to see if piston is in or out of the bore as I know that the VG30 is a flush/zero piston to deck. This I have done and I have a situation where the piston is out of the bore by .152mm or .006". Is this going to pose a problem with respect to any mechanical interference etc. I value any feed back, thanks

Hi Davezx, I have one of these which i have not fitted yet and unfortunately cannot help as I am in the motor rebuild stage....I thought I was one of many who had one but seems there are not many users of the Apexi AVCR which is worrying as user/info seems to be limited. I will be watching this thread as I no doubt will be asking similar questions as well. I will keep an ear out and will share any info with you. Cheers

Had a set of these on my jap import, they are single piston and worked pretty well. replaced them with diaphram BOVs.

Try a 2 leg bearing puller.

Thats a stunning looking car you have sir...and I am also an oldie...half way to 108.:yes:

Any specific brand anyone recommends?

Hi Noz, was thinking after I posted the thread, what if I have 1 sensor in each bank always powered from start up but with an in cabin switch to switch the sensor wire from one bank to the other at will enabling to read afrs one bank at a time. Is this possible or am I missing something

Hi guys, I want to purchase a wide band to monitor my afr but not sure about a few things. a) What brand or type to get...was looking at AEM, Innovate. any others? b) Can I monitor one bank only or should I get 2 O2 sensors (one for each bank) and switch over manually. c) or get 2 guages/sensor kits, one for eack bank (eek quite costly...for me) Thanks for any info.

Hope the blasting media/grit that was used in the preparation of the powder coat process was cleaned out thoroughly....heard of many horror stories of dirty plenums destroying bores. Hope I am wrong.

As AndrewG has said....I have done the exact same thing...fitted 112 alloys, wobble nuts and hubcentric rings. no issues at all...get a wobble lock nut.

Looks great...............any more side view pics??????????

Hi Jeff, that is how all Jap imported motors arrive here in South Adfrica...for ease of removal from the car. I have had a FWD engine and gear box arrive in the same state, even the drive shafts were cut off at the inner cv joints. Cheers

I was also looking at these. Do the indicaters flash red in colour as seen on USA cars? The requirement in South Africa is amber/orange as I think is also for the UK.

Thanks Mark, I think around that sort of power will be acceptable considering traction becomes an issue. Will give then a go.............

Hi guys, need some help here, been collecting a range of parts over the years and about to start my forged build. My aim is for max useable power stricktly for street use. The power related parts I have to date are: Wiseco 88mm Eagle rods Cometic mls Large side mount intercoolers Z1 GT675RS turbos and down pipes Std heads port matched and flowed Manual cams and possibly my limiting factor...my 550 injectors. Question is would I best be getting 720 injectors for the job?

Thanks Mark...so if I understand you correctlly is my s2 inlet cams and pulleys will fit my s1 heads. What are the spec differences between the auto and manual inlet cams wrt lift and duration? Thanks

Hi guys, Looking at getting some parts for my head rebuild and need some clarification. I have series 1 heads that I will be using for the build. So.....will s1 inlet manual cams fit to s2 inlet cam gears and fit the s1 heads. or......Will s2 inlet manual cams and s2 inlet cam gears fit the s1 heads. And....Will s2 exhaust manual cams fit my s1 heads. Thanks for any input. Ant

Mikey Bean....that was a bit below the belt!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks redwine300 and thanks to whoever rotated my pics :thumbup1:

Not much of an update since pulling my rebuilt stock motor and posting it up for sale locally he in SA. Have had some intrest but a little slow... Hopefully will sell soon as I want to re-invest the cash in the forged motor. At this point in time my collection of new motor parts are: 88mm wiseco pistons Cometic head gaskets Eagle rods ACL bearings ARP main and head stud kit Nissan oil pump Water pump Cam belt, tensioner/pulley kit From my selection of stripped down motors I have selected a good block and have prepared it for engineering. Removed all the freeze plugs and ground out the cast flashing in the water passages so now I can see right through the block.....good for flow to the back cylinders. Also removed the TT oil squirters and will replace with my NA ones I have. Next step is to send the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch etc for balancing which I think is a must. Also selected a good set of heads with all the cam caps in their correct numbered positions....all my other heads had caps missing or not fitted. Going to send the bare head for pressure testing and then start the port matching effort after which will go for valve and seat cut/grind. Still must strip the NA manual heads I have for the cams......cant afford any fancy cams at this point so these will be better than the autos. Fitted my new/used side mount intercoolers and found they fitted like a glove, quite a lot bigger than the stock ones, used the original brackets and mounting points...very happy with that.

Not much of an update since pulling my rebuilt stock motor and posting it up for sale locally he in SA. Have had some intrest but a little slow... Hopefully will sell soon as I want to re-invest the cash in the forged motor. At this point in time my collection of new motor parts are: 88mm wiseco pistons Cometic head gaskets Eagle rods ACL bearings ARP main and head stud kit Nissan oil pump Water pump Cam belt, tensioner/pulley kit From my selection of stripped down motors I have selected a good block and have prepared it for engineering. Removed all the freeze plugs and ground out the cast flashing in the water passages so now I can see right through the block.....good for flow to the back cylinders. Also removed the TT oil squirters and will replace with my NA ones I have. Next step is to send the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch etc for balancing which I think is a must. Also selected a good set of heads with all the cam caps in their correct numbered positions....all my other heads had caps missing or not fitted. Going to send the bare head for pressure testing and then start the port matching effort after which will go for valve and seat cut/grind. Still must strip the NA manual heads I have for the cams......cant afford any fancy cams at this point so these will be better than the autos. Fitted my new/used side mount intercoolers and found they fitted like a glove, quite a lot bigger than the stock ones, used the original brackets and mounting points...very happy with that.

Well it was time to make way for the new engine build as I have saved up parts for a while now. The rebuilt stock motor has to come out as I have advertised it and have a few intrested parties. Here it is still in the car. And now hanging from the I Beam.

Thanks again....new spec lights would be like finding rocking horse $hit here, will certainly look at some point in getting some.

Thanks.....Nissan South Africa did sell the 2+2 TT for a while but not sure if they also sold the na versions, yes most are imports that are bought into the counrty legally and registered there are those that are illegally brought into SA from neighbouring countries like Swaziland and Botswana.Many are confiscated by the authoutities and crushed. There has been a few GTRs, EVOs, supras and I know of a koningseg that have visited the crushers. There is a process to import a car which is legal, takes months and costs a lot, but it can be done.

Hi Guys. this is a thread on my long and expensive journey which started a few years back. The car belonged to a good friend of mine and after doing so paint work on the car I fell in love with car but just could not swing the kind of money it was going for. Anyway he sold it to another friend of mine who then paid a very well know tuner to forge the motor (Arias pistons, eagle rods ACL bearings etc) at a cost of ZAR40.000. A couple of months later the head gasket blew and he opened the motor and guess what? no forged motor parts inside...all stock. This is where I enter the scene.....my friend at that time was gutted and sold it to me for a price I could afford, I traded my S13 and some cash and there I had my first 300zx TT. As my friend live about 5 houses up the road my first drive in the car was powered by 2 people pushing me home in my engineless car. It came with a set of 17" 3 piece veiside mags, veilside side skirts, rear wing and an ugly front spoiler. Oh look.....an automatic gearbox. That will have to go. After a few moths or so of hunting for a manual gear box, pedals etc for a manual conversion I found this. It was an import unregistered car and I had a great time removing and fitting all the best parts from the silver one onto my black one, this ofcourse included the manual conversion. This to me was a rare and pretty sight, owner of 2 300zx's. OK so that was history and this is after 3 years is where I am at the moment. It is fitted with a rebuilt stock motor by myself with port matched heads and manifolds, rebuilt turbos and running on 1 bar boost fitted with a NOZ (noel) performance chip. It is fitted with 19" alloys fitted with 175x30x19 rears and 235x35x19 fronts.