antman

Hi, this may help you a bit, I have used a na 5 speed box on my TT motor and works well. Just use a air die grinder with a good burr and grind the raised humps on the inside of the bell housing of the gearbox, I removed about 50mm of each hump which are located at the gearbox bolt holes . The na or TT starter will work although you will have to make a 3mm ally spacer between starter and bellhousing. Cheers

Surprised that there are so many short shifter haters out there, I have a cheap ebay one in my zx for over a year now and it is perfect, selects perfectly, shift is short and positive and never goes into the wrong gear. Feels like the MBG GT I drove many years ago. Maybe I am one of the lucky ones.

Hi, if you have cleared sprk related possibilities then I would look at the vac line to your fuel pressure regulator, if the vac line is split/off you will not get higher pressure in the higher/in boost range which will give you the hesitation, meaning you will be running lean. Could be a failing fuel pump control unit, or pump. Good luck.

They are different, I have both.

Yes I agree with you..... here in South Africa we have a speed limit of 120km/h and although many do break the speed limit occasionally. I am not one for top end speeds and favour the zero to speed limit type run. I also hear the NA diff is the same as some of the sylines as far as the type (R200). I am sure the diff has limitations with high power motors but I am sure if hard launches with sticky tyres are kept to a minimun it should be good and I am sure I will find out one way or another.

After the last 3 weekends of preparing my NA diff conversion on my TT which entailed removing my TT diff/subframe etc from the car and repainting the NA subframe. Also had to transfer the poly bushes for the diff but decided to retain the OEM main subframe bushes in favour of cutting dowm the noise transmitted into the cabin. I replaced the diff side and pinion seals while it was out and gave the diff a coat of black paint and also had a new centre bearing fitted to the prop shaft and a balance. With the TT diff and I always found the car to have very "long" legs, perhaps due to 19" alloys and the lag on my GT675RS turbos found it to be a bit slow on the power delivery. Finally today it was all fitted and ready for its first test run, don't have any specs as far as revs/speed etc but all I can say is the car is transformed, it pulls like a steam train in each gear and feels like this gearing is what it should always have had. It does not feel like the revs are too high or undergeared but I will reserve that after a test on the freeway drive after wheel alignment is done next week. At 0.8bar boost traction is lost in the first 2 gears so going to have to set up the Apexi boost control feature for each gear when I up boost to 1.2bar. This is a good mod.

In my build which I fitted Z1 2860rs BB turbos I drilled out the K banjo bolts to about 6mm as the turbos have built in oil restrictor nipples at the end of the supplied oil lines.

I have got a similar situation and after listening to the sound on your video it seems the same, I liken it to laying a steel rule on the propshaft for a few seconds and then lifting it off. My noise has been there from day 1 and still apparent even though I have a new motor, changed the manual box and have a different one piece prop. I was relubricating my short shifter bush the other day and noticed the bracket that holds up the lever assembly had been modified by the previous owner, the original rubber mount was removed and a flat plate was rivited to the bracket with a hole in the middle for the threaded stud to protrude into. Although there were rubber spacers fitted to afford some cushioning I noticed that the black bracket support assembly was extremely low and close to the prop shaft. I have remedied that situation by changing the rubber spacers in order to lift the black bracket assembly up further away from the prop shaft. I am not suggesting that this is your problem but your video sounds exactly like my noise, may worth a check. I have not been able to test drive it yet but will do so on Sunday, hope the problem is as simple as that. I will report back.

Hi, In my opinion you unfortunately have a serious problem. It seems that you encountered a major coolant leak which resulted in your temp guage indicating a low reading. The coolant sensor requires coolant to read and without it will give you a low reading. Before you commit sucide :hang: and pull the motor first check that there is no water/oil mix in motor and radiator, if all ok there then refill the cooling system with water and check for coolant leaks for example water dripping onto the floor. If theres a leak repair and then start up the motor briefly, if she runs with no motor noise, smoke then you are lucky. Do an oil/coolant/antifreeze service. I have always wanted to fit a low coolant sensor device for exactly what has happened to you, it will cetainly save a motor. All of the best.

I think my speedo should be ok as I have used a NA gear box wich has the correct speed sensor for the NA diff although my 19" wheels may cause it to under read.

Hi Terry, thanks for the info, you confirm exactly what I wanted from this conversion.

Hi, I am considering doing a NA diff conversion to my TT and would like comment from those that have experienced the conversion, the net is full of those for and against. My TT has a fully forged motor with Z1 GT675 turbos and has some big power potential although I am still running in the motor. Some time back I discovered that my TT diff had some back lash as well as my inner and outer cv's needed changing and the cost was massive due to the unavailability of spares in my country. On the net I found that the NA conversion was the way to go and some claim "best performance mod to a TT"and in my situation was the most cost effective way to overcome my worn out rear end. I have come across a perfect NA rear complete at a very good price. The car is not intended for track use but as a quick street car with occasional social strip run for fun. Is this a worth while conversion from an acceleration point of view and would like to hear from the experienced. Thanks

Hi there, needs some advice....I want to change my TT rear suspension to a NA setup (non HICAS) My question is will my TT "a" arms, upper arms and the link arm (not sure of the correct names) fit the NA sub frame and NA bearing carrier? I have deleted HICAS on the TT already. Reason is the NA "a" arms, upper arm and the link armare quite corroded as it was a coastal car and the TT ones rust free and have poly bushes fitted. I dont have both subframes on the ground to visually compare. Thanks for any info.

Ok...so thats what the rectangular button to left of the digital clock is for.....thanks man.

Yes people...what is it? I also have one.

What a difference.....that does not look like the same one. I was thinking of powder coating mine when I did the poly bushes but here in deepest Africa we dont have rust issues.My subframe still looks like the day it came out the factory in 1989 just with a layer of dust and elephant sh!t. LOL Good job there and if I were in the UK I would do the complete front and rear suspension.

Hi...my nissan cam belt reads 13028 45P00 and is a 228T (tooth) which I fitted to my TT.

Side mounts for definate, know a few who have gone from FMIC to SMIC because of restricted air flow, IMO why load the stuggling radiator/cooling system any more than nessessary.

Hi Raymond, on most of the cars I have had over the years with dirty internal water overflow bottles is to do the following. Block off any outlets with insulation tape leaving the main opening and then quarter fill the bottle with clean course river sand and a good squirt of concentrated detergent (I use Handy Andy, not sure if you get that in the UK) and then fill with water up to half the container volume. Block off main opening with your hand or tape and shake it like a martini and watch those muscles develop. Always works for me.

That blanking off plug you have there is blanking off the hole for the oil pressure sender unit.... is your sender unit relocated else where?

Thought I would bring this up after seeing the previous "ACL Bearing Admin" post. A year or 2 back when collecting the parts for my forge build I happen to check the main bearing fittment on the block and noticed a misalignment of the oil holes of the rear bearing/thrust shell to the oil groove in the block. This misalignment was approx 1-1.5mm out. The misalignment of the large hole also misaligns the crank journal hole hole. The block oil groove was central in the block where as the oil holes in the bearing was off set. I emailed ACL in Tasmania asking them if I had a faulty batch and they were shocked at my statement. They replied back later to say that this was the first time they had heard this. After their investigation they agreed there was this off set and had sold many sets like this and never had a problem, they assured me that it would be fine to use the bearing but stated that I could dremel the bearing oil holes to correct the misalignment. My correction of this was to dremel a radius in the block to align the bearing holes and dremel the large hole "oval" in the bearing for the crank hole alignment. Below is a copy of his return mail to me. Tony Hi Tony, Henry forwarded your email to me in relation to I believe our 5M2737 H main bearing set. It is quite a coincidence that yesterday I was asked the same question by another customer here in Australia who also noticed the groove and oil holes were slightly offset on the OE bearing and the ACL one was central. We obtained an OE bearing and find that the groove/oil holes were 1mm offset (except for the large central hole which was only 0.5 mm offset on the sample we obtained). We will be modifying our bearing to the OE design on the next production run. We have been manufacturing the Race Series bearing since 2004 and the regular aftermarket sets since 1998 for these engines, and yesterday was the first time someone had alerted us to this difference. Whilst you are quite correct that the oil holes may not line up 100% with the oil gallery in the block and the groove in the block behind the back of the bearing, to feed the 4 small oil holes, I think it would be safe to say that the oil path has not been substantially blocked, as there must have been adequate oil supply to both this main and the con rod bearing which is fed from the main bearing. The oil holes also have a chamfer on the OD and ID of the oil holes which will also assist with the oil flow, and on the bearings for the turbo engines there are 5 oil holes, but on the non-turbo engines there is only the large oil hole in the upper thrust bearing. We believe you can use the bearings as supplied with confidence, however if you want more peace of mind you could enlarge the OD chamfer, before fitting the bearing. The feed gallery in the block is probably much larger than the large oil hole in the bearings, and you could check that there is adequate alignment when fitting the upper shell to the block. We apologize for any concern this mistake has caused you, and hope that you are happy in general with the ACL product Kind regards Bruce Williams Product Engineer ACL Bearing Company 253-293 George Town Road Rocherlea Tasmania 7248 Australia[/i]

Hi guys, after having my engineering done on my block and heads, 88mm bores, block and head decking I needed to determine the new compressioin ratio as I was worried that it may be too high. I measured the combustion chamber which measured 48.5cc (stock is 49.5cc) as this was the only unknown value. The rest of the values I had and entered all this data into the compression ratio calculator resulting in a comp ratio of 8.9033 :1 I would like to know from those with experience if this comp ratio is acceptable as I will be running gt2860rs turbos, 700cc injectors, large side mounts and Nistune. I am of the opinion it would be fine just would like your comment. Thanks

Well some feed back...measured the combustion chamber and came up to 48.5cc as this was the only unknown value and so entered all the known data into the compression ratio calculator and it spat out a comp ratio of 8.9033 :1 This will be acceptable and now can continue the rest of the assembly, not sure how its going to affect the cam timing but will have to see.

Hi Mark, thanks for the info...contacted my engineer and he confirmed that he took off 0.004" off the heads and also 0.004" off the block, 0.008" in total. I think I will go with the 0.045" cometic HG. Wiseco also confirm that their pockets are deeper than stock so that helps aswell. I will check piston to valve clearances as a matter of course. How is that motor of yours going? watched your build thread closely. Cheers Ant